I am having some EGT issues. I was always told that aluminum melts at 1300, so if you don't want to melt your aluminum pistons don't get the EGT's around or over that mark.


With that being said, I recently installed a boost and pyro in my truck and OMG THE EGT's. I am surprised I haven't melted it down yet.


I regularly haul a pulling tractor that weighs about 10,000# (IH 1066) on my 30' gooseneck (about 3,500#) I always take the Predator tuning out and run on lvl 2 with the juice. I still flirt with 1,300 all the time. I'm always pulling my foot out of the throttle.


Just the other day I did one of those full throttle runs (empty) from 0 to 80mph with both chips on full blast and pegged out the pyro, 1,600 degrees. This scares the crap out of me.


How is everyone else dealing with the EGT's? I was thinking of spraying some water to cool it off when I pull it or drag race. Does anyone know of a water kit for the Max? How long can these things run past 1300deg.?

I have a water/meth kit set up now, but I'm still running tests with it. I have made a new manifold to replace the blue rubber intake boot with. You can plumb lots of stuff into it as well. Aluminum melts at a lot lower temp than that, but you have water running through it to wick away the heat. It is much more efficient than a cast head in removing heat. That is what makes it work so well. Isuzu has been making them like this for many, many years now. The vains on the turbo will melt long before the heads do. Thats where the Pyro is so important.

Flirting and continuous are two different things ....


If 1300 melts Alum then my near 1800 flirtation must be looking Ingot pot soon ... http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Shocked.gif


The Duramax was tested maintaining 1300 + degrees in development .... IMO you have nothing to worry about but a cap of 1250 ish should be observed when at all possible ....


Mac Edited by: Mackin

a cap of 1250 ish should be observed when at all possible ....





ABSOLUTELY!

a cap of 1250 ish should be observed when at all possible ....





ABSOLUTELY!





So knockin on the doors of 2000 would just be wrong wouldn't it?? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

a cap of 1250 ish should be observed when at all possible ....





ABSOLUTELY!





So knockin on the doors of 2000 would just be wrong wouldn't it?? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif





Now you tell me http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif And all this time me thinking the hotter the better http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


Seriously though, i've been well over 1600 and right around 2000 too many times to count or remember.(hundreds) These are only 12-13 seconds on the track and 13-16 seconds pulling and i haven't had a melt down. As long as its not long periods such as pulling a trailer up a steep and long grade for 1+ minutes at a time you should be fine. If your pulling up grades then back off with the programming or drop down a gear to reduce those egts.

I feel alot better now, knowing someone has pushed it farther than I had wanted to.


Now when I run PAST the 300' mark at 1600 deg. I wont pucker up so bad. I timed my last pull and it took 14 seconds wide open with an end result of about 1550 degrees. It sounds like I'm still in the safe zone.


Thanks guys.

When I sledpull a Duramax it's usually 1800 deg before I get the clutch fully let out. You'll be ok sled pulling just watch it trailer pulling.

Just the other day I did one of those full throttle runs (empty) from 0 to 80mph with both chips on full blast and pegged out the pyro, 1,600 degrees. This scares the crap out of me.





It looks like you have a stock transmission, other wise you would have noted it in the huge list of lesser items.


If this is the case, You have got to be the first to achieve this spectacular feat of power without blowing through the transmission.

*WARNING*


Heat stresses on pistons causes accumulative damage, that over time can lead to failure. High thermal cycling can cause crystallization in the atomic structure of the metal in question making for weak areas that can spall over time and or cause a condition similar to work hardening inherent in all forged metals which in turn can lead to stress fractures or areas more suceptible to thermal stress.


Even short trips over the 1300-1400 threshold cause damage, it just takes time and miles for that damage to be realized.


JEdited by: Got Juice?

I have had two digital EGT monitors. One was the BD Xmonitor and now the Edge. I have seen, on both, over 2000 deg. f. I am fairly convinced that these numbers are incorrect since this seems to happen almost right after starting up and taking off. No hard driving, just cruising.


Could I have two bad probes, or is there somthing else going on?


I have ordered another mechanical gauge that goes to 1600 deg. to see what it does.

Just the other day I did one of those full throttle runs (empty) from 0 to 80mph with both chips on full blast and pegged out the pyro, 1,600 degrees. This scares the crap out of me.





It looks like you have a stock transmission, other wise you would have noted it in the huge list of lesser items.


If this is the case, You have got to be the first to achieve this spectacular feat of power without blowing through the transmission.





Not really, I'm still running a stock tranny with a TST comp box. It holds pretty good most of the time. Forget fifth though. It will really get your attention when your passing someone, grabs fifth and then zings into neutral, leaving you with no more acceleration and out there hanging in the left lane. Only happend once, I'm stupid, but trainable. Anyway had the box for well over a year know, >30,000 or so and the ally is wounded I'm sure, but still hanging in there. Oh yeah she'll go well past 1700 if you let it.Edited by: a64pilot

There is a huge difference between the air being 1700* for a few seconds, and the surrounding metals getting that hot. If the head or pistons, or any other metals were that hot, you would not be seeing the temperatures drop so fast when you let up on the go fast peddle.

hdmax,


Yes trans is stock, I've decided that if I'm going to fork over the $5,000 for a new one and give up my stocker for a core, I'm going to get some use out of my stock ally first. My 2001 I traded in on this one held for about 60,000 before it was more of a pain to deal with than it was worth. I was only running about 140hp on it, but that chip had no defueling between shifts so it was pretty hard on the trans.


Like a64pilot said, the trans seems to do a fair job with the extra ponies until that last gear, then you've got to be real careful. I have limped mine twice, and smoked the brand new sports cars I was racing both times so in my eyes it was worth every clutch slipping min .http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

The melting/solidifying temp of pure(or very close anyway) aluminum is 660*C. I think that calculates to about 1220*F(we monitor temps in C at work--an aluminum plant). However, as hdmax pointed out, we have to get the air around the aluminum MUCH hotter than that temp to melt the Al in the furnaces and these furnaces are insulated very well(1.5 - 3 feet of firebrick as well as very thick steel walls). I don't have enough experience with these power monsters yet to advise anyone as to what a safe max temp would be. I would defer to the high hp guys on this place for those numbers. I just thought I would throw out the numbers I know.