So.. i was pokin around the hood today..

Trying to figure out why my AC isn't coming on.. and was looking for solenoids and so forth.. see the map sensor on the firewall and the typical "oh.. so that's where it's mounted".. ran through the head... and then the "humm.. where's the vacuum line..?"

Anyone have a diagram of how the hoses are supposed to connect.. this might explain my check engine light flashing on/off and the big clouds of black smoke when i really get on it :)

Thanks,

WheatKing

Er.. wait.. is that the baro sensor?

Some more reading here kinda suggests that it is..

Now.. anyone know why my 4wd doesn't work anymore.. i'm thinking it might have to do with that solenoid on the axle..

-- WheatKing

Put a wire between pin "A" and "B" on ALDL connector for codes, engine off key on.it will flash two numbers.
Then with wire in place,KEY off step on pedal then key on to clear them.

code 78
check out vacuum pump/ lines/ wastegate solenoid for black exhaust.
The 4wd relay is built to fail. I'm thinking about adapting one of the stock thermal relays to work on a pull cable.Edited by: quantum mechanic

I upgraded my front axle actuator to the new motor actuator. It is in 4 wheel drive before I can get my hand off the lever. They don't break like the old thermal actuators either.


For the AC, did you check the pressure switch? If you unplug it and jumper out the pins in the plug, it should pull the clutch in. If you runn it for a minute or two and the pipes don't get cold then you are out of freon. If they get real cold right away then it might be the switch. They are fairly cheap and just screw off.


If you have an EGR system then there would be a hose to the sensor on the firewall. If you don't, then no hose is supposed to go to it.

Baro is firewall mounted, in early OBDI non EGR this does not get a hose connected to it EGR does; in later & OBDII EGR hose is tied to EGR system, OBDII non EGR Map & Baro are same sensor, at start up baro is flashed to PCM at start up.


4wd actuators are known to stop especially early ones replace with newer vintage problem supposed to have been corrected or, I saw something in one of the 4x4 magazines about a cable system that replaces the solenoid actuator with a mechanical one cable operated that does not rely on trons to make it work.


On the AC do the press switch check as suggested & also check to see that you are getting 12v to the compressor clutch actuator when switch is pulled in or jumpered.Edited by: Turbine Doc

the replacement cable actuator system is a really good replacement for the stock 4x4 actuator system. my buddie has one on his z71. they are only $150 and the company is called 4x4 posilock. im waiting till my push button goes out before i put one on mine. the best part is that it gives you 2-low so you can still turn but got the power to get something moving.

I think that 97 might have the new style. If so, you will be waiting for a long time. (probably won't go out)

2 - low eh? hehe.. already got that.. doesn't help when your stuck on wet grass however :)

Thanks for the tips..

The AC clutch engages when i short the pressure switch.. however doesn't get cold.. so.. lotsa fun there..

That cable thing sounds neat.. have to have a look at it.

You guys rock http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif