Who's got 1 and how much do ya like it? I'm thinking of getting it and wanna get some feedback on it.

What do you have your boost set at with the reflash? turbo-master not vacuum

i put one in my girlfriend truck ,its a 96 S motor got it with the turbo master they said to run it at 12pounds of boost, truck runs mint,feels like a 5.7 gas truck which itn't saying much but its a hell of faster than it was. Long story short i pleased with it:ro)

whats the difference in S and F motors?

EGR reflash for the S,

F has no EGR or MAF to contend with

I have a Heath reflash and love it

I have Heath's EPROM v2.0 and love it! ('95 truck).

I have had a Heath reflash for a couple of years now. Very happy with the power increase. I also ran their Tubromaster with good results.

I'm now running a Peninsular Diesel motor with no wastegate :D I regularly see 14-15 psi of boost.

Jake

I have a 1994 S motor and the TM/Heath 2.0 and love it. It is miles better than a stock F prom or the BD prom I tried.

I have an F motor (no egr), Turbomaster and heath prom.

I run up an 8% grade to take my son to school and get upto 13-14 psi of boost on that hill.

Of course, you need to install some guages before/while you install turbomaster and chip.

You need an EGT at a minimum and boost guage would be helpful...

autoxsteve - what do you think of the max-e-tork? did you add it after your other upgrades, if so, what difference did you get?

Have had the heath turbo-master 12[lbs] & max-e-tork for about 2 months.
It really woke the old "s" girl up,definately need guages and a lighter
foot.:ro)

I have been running my max-e-tork 2.0 since july 2005, no turbomaster. As mentioned by others, really woke it up. I get boost spike to 14 psi falling back to 12-13 constant through hard acceleration. Still leaves a slight stream of black out the pipe at that point and a smile on my face.

Two items i'm not so fond of: 1) lost ~ 2mpg on highway no matter how light i am on the pedal 2) shifting can be quite sharp when accelerating moderately and then letting off the accel pedal near an upshift point (kinda "bangs" into the next gear). I avoid this by accelerating quite lightly or giving it a good amount of throttle till it shifts, then i let off.

Other than that, I think it was a great upgrade:ro)

running 13 psi, heath reflash doing a great job

2) shifting can be quite sharp when accelerating moderately and then letting off the accel pedal near an upshift point (kinda "bangs" into the next gear). I avoid this by accelerating quite lightly or giving it a good amount of throttle till it shifts, then i let off.

Other than that, I think it was a great upgrade:ro)

Ditto...

I really like my set-up.

Love it and my mileage is the same as before I installed both Max-e-tork and Turbo Master. I highly recommend them both. Like a previous post - it is hard to keep my foot out of it because it is so much more fun to drive now.

sounds like the way to go :)


now anybody got their ho injectors with the reflash?

When I did mine I installed HO injectors 1st (Kennedy's), then reflash (Heath), were I doing it again I'd go other way round. I hope to have some baseline information of what mod does what, based on build I'm doing on my 98 Katrina salvage Burb, hopefully next week I'll have the last of my title/inspection issues resolved and I'll be able to street it and start doing upgrades.

Plan is to dyno it as is OEM 1st, and redyno as I start adding stuff. That plan has been on back burner last couple of months as I've been on the road, I'm hoping things will slow a little so I can get back to working on the Burb.

For you go with the reflash,then decide if you still want/need more, for most folks stock injector will support all fuel it requires.

I'm sure I'll want more :)

but the ho injectors gives you more power or are larger for other mods that the stockers can't handle?

Advertised as providing more power, to be honest I didn't think I got it by seat of pant test until reflash woke them up with more fuel from the IP which is why they would be last on my list after everything else had been added

Ok, I'm showing my ignorance here, but where do you get a reflash. I went to Heath's website and couldn't find anything. Do you pull out the ECM and send it away and it get's tweaked??, How much does that cost?

look under performance upgrades for your year truck... it's the Max-E-Tork $560

So Turbine you did notice a difference with injectors only after the reflash? Coulda been just the reflash you noticed huh

Hard to say, I thought I had a difference on the truck with just the injectors more rattle/slight knock at idle especially on cold mornings so something was changed and some minimal seat of pant notice, or wishful thinking since my wallet was a little lighter :D , when I added the reflash it was WOW.

What I don't know is if it's a combination of the two, but since you are going to get both eventually you say, my recommendation is to go with a reflash 1st, besides the reflash was less than the cost of the HO injectors.

Now I have a reflash for my Burb which is still bone stock, I plugged it in and did a quick test with it more as a troubleshooting aid for problems I had in this thread http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95036&highlight=burb it's a lot zippier than stock but I didn't do much driving as it doesn't have a tag on it yet, when I put on the open exhaust I'll know more. may do some runs with a G tech meter, then dyno, last time I checked dyno was charging $300/hr with them doing some tuning, I need to see if I can broker a better deal, since not tuning involved on their part other than me swapping some parts out.

I'll try it in that order. My ultimate goal is to have power like a new stocker. I'm not sure how true the #'s are but on Heaths site you add in the raised boost, open exhaust, injectors and little things like the airbox or conical filter you should be close to 300hp/600tq. Or am I just wishful thinking???

wishful thinking

Won't be rwhp, to get in the 300 Hp club you got to go into the block 18:1s, probably a bigger turbo and some other things so you can stuff a lot of fuel & air in there, but you can make a fairly stout set-up with bolt on stuff.

No I didn't think rwhp at all. But aren't the d-max's ratings at the flywheel?

I have beaten early model stock DMAX empty, later ones got much more grunt, I don't fare so well against newer ones, towing against one is where we start falling flat, remember you are still spraying fuel indirect injecting into a pre-cup, vs direct injection, DMAX turbo is designed to be more efficient for ther higher Hp, our was designed to flow for 190 Hp and give modest power. If 300 Hp is your goal, a engine or truck swap may be more in order,

300 Hp is a good target to shoot for but that is at very limit of what is possible/practicle for a daily driver 6.5, where we finish our build potential is starting point for the DMAX, add just a bigger exhaust on a MAX and you don't have much chance with a 6.5 even a tweaked up one. Could you get more possibly, but will it stay together ???

I think a truck swap is in the future but for now I'll play with this. To be honest I don't think the 200hp is bad... until you ride in a new truck:(
Maybe with the ecm and a few other bolt ons I'll be much happier and can put off a truck payment for a bit.

Much as I'd like a new truck not in the budget Katrina recovery still going on at the homeplace here, and newer trucks cost a lot more to fix when they break, also I'm just now getting smart enough to keep the ones I have going. Learning ways of the DMAX is a whole new aminal, and then I'd want to make it run harder then I'm into another evolution, with the 6.5 there isn't much more I can do so I have to stop and no temptation to do more.

I got one from Heath a few months ago and am very happy . One thing that he told me supprised me . He said I could run up to 15psi without a IC no problamo ???? I try to stay below 12 though . To tell you all the truth I was ready to get rid of the truck . Ill keep it for a while now .

I put a Westerner's Reflash in and man what a diffrence.

I got one from Heath a few months ago and am very happy . One thing that he told me supprised me . He said I could run up to 15psi without a IC no problamo ???? I try to stay below 12 though . To tell you all the truth I was ready to get rid of the truck . Ill keep it for a while now .

I ran 15 psi sustained boost loaded for several minutes, pulling loaded through the mountains coming home from Alabama last fall. No worries here (and no intercooler).

I got one from Heath a few months ago and am very happy . One thing that he told me supprised me . He said I could run up to 15psi without a IC no problamo ???? I try to stay below 12 though . To tell you all the truth I was ready to get rid of the truck . Ill keep it for a while now .

From what I understand its safe to run ~15 psi. Where the intercooler comes into play is that at 15 PSI non intercooled air coming out of the turbo it really hot and less dense. Thats why its reccomended to stay with a lower boost level without an IC.

Soooo as long as I keep my temps in check I can safely run 15psi ???

Soooo as long as I keep my temps in check I can safely run 15psi ???

Sustained?

Thats the impression I got .

Soooo as long as I keep my temps in check I can safely run 15psi ???

I won't be the one to tell you that because I'd feel bad if someone did and then ended up blowing something apart. I'm just saying, it doesn't bother me to run 15 psi under a hard pull. I don't think there's much difference from 12-15, other than a little more whistle.

I wouldn't advise it, that is a lot of air stuffed into a tight place, which is reason guys that run high boost go 18:1. 12-13 psi sustained is my self imposed limit for max boost (with boost you also get EGT when working hard), I hit higher every now & again sporting around running the truck only.

But when I'm working the truck, so far using that self imposed limit my 98 "bad year to own" oil spray engine is still in one piece. Rolling flat grade with my trailer loaded to 18K, 9 psi boost is plenty to maintain 70mph. If going up a grade and I need to run in 13+ psi boost territory I just slow down, and still can pretty much maintain 50-55mph and I'm not putting the engine at risk. Going "that slow" beats walking anyday, I'll still get the load to where I'm going.

Thats the same logic Im going with too . Ill run about the same as you turbine but itll spike 15psi if I romp on it but doesnt hold it .