i installed a 10k pot and adjusted as instructed. at cruising i have no problems. when going up a slight hill boost pressure will go above 5psi and i will get a code 62. when boost pressure gets back down to 5 and under ses light will go out. Any suggestions how to keep from getting a code 62. code 62 is a turbo boost senor low circuit.

I think you also have the baro mounted on the firewall just forward of the driver. This weekend I'll be moving my MAP pot into the cab and putting a pot on the baro as well. This would keep the differential between the two tolerable to the ECM.

Is there instructions on how to wire in a pot to the baro and how to set it?

I cut the middle wire on the baro and soldered a 4.7ohm resistor inline.
Cured my code 78 wastegate and truck now boosts to around 12 psi..or more if pot turned up.

I cut the middle wire on the baro and soldered a 4.7ohm resistor inline.
Cured my code 78 wastegate and truck now boosts to around 12 psi..or more if pot turned up.

Do you mean 4.7k ohm??

I installed a 10k pot and it worked great for my code 78, but i got a code 63 so i put in a 4.7k ohm resistor on the baro. i still get a code 63. how do i get rid of a code 63 and if i buy a max e tork from heath can i do away with both resistors?

Where do you splice the wires? I am attaching a pic of my wiring diagram with where i'm presuming you would splice into the wires (Circled in red). I am also presuming that the grey wire listed in the diagram is the same as the yellow one listed in the diagram QM made.

Try this.

Sorry for the lack of clarity. I can't get the bmp image any bigger and still upload it.

Call Bill and see what he can do with it.

He likes the Turbo Master solution best and will likely suggest that. I'm sure he can do some custom programming though if it's possible to disable ECT.

Open the big bmp in paint and save it as a jpg file.

Trial 2. I'm not sure if the wire should be spliced above the connections or below in this diagram.

**Note-Diagram for 1995 Pick-up/Sierra 6.5L turbo diesel w/AT Engine schematic

Grey "C" is the reference signal

Black "A" is the ground

Grey/Black on the Baro and Lt Green on the MAP "B" return to the ECM. This is the signal you're trying to modify. Splice this and control it with the potentiometer.

Cut wire to B (boost signal). This is the only splice you'll make.

CW potentiometer terminal wired to any dash ground or A (ground).

Center pot terminal to wire that was on B (return to ECM).

CCW pot terminal wired to B (module).

Fully CCW is factory stock setting,

Rotation CW increases Boost level.

Full CW (ground) gives Boost Sensor DTC.


On both the baro and the boost, the black wire is ground and the "B" wire, clearly labeled on the male plug going into each module, is the return (modified) signal going to the ECM that you're trying to alter. I'd leave the ground alone at the module, run paired wires out to the individual modules, and ground the potentiometers to the dash.