i have a 4911 pump waiting to go but the problem i have is the remainder of the electronics. my truck is an auto and i have never been able to get a strait answer on how to make that thing shift right after the conversion. i've heard of everything from using the pedal pos switch, adding a tps, all the way to something that requires a tranny rebuild. what is different about the '93 4l80e setup and the'94. i want to hear from someone who has done this conversion and had it shift right. and yes i know that my problems would be solved by a nv4500 or 4600 swap but thats a lot of green.

I went through the exact same headache and after a lot of searching around I finally found a solution that works pretty good.

It involves hooking up 3 switches and minimal wiring. First off cut the wiring harness that plugs into the big plug on theside of your 4L60E transmission. Leave enough wire to join to. Then connect the wire hooked up to terminal 'E' to +12V. Then hook up a switch to connect solenoids A and B to ground. (terminals A and B on the connector). This last one is optional: hook up a third switch to ground the Torque converter (terminal T) This is a good idea for highway cruisin' cause you'll get better mileage.

Now to drive the thing this is what you do:

Put the shift lever in OD as you normally would. To start out turn both solenoid switches ON (this is first gear) then to shift into second gear turn solenoid A off. Then for third gear turn solenoid B off and for overdrive turn solenoid A on.

When your up to highway speed you can turn on the Torque converter, but remember to turn it off before stopping or slowing too much because it is just like have the clutch out on a manual tranny.

This sounds kind of complicated but once you get used to it its easier than driving a manual. You could also put a rotary switch for changing gears, that way theres no thinking required. You could wire the TCC through the brake also to avoid stalling.

If you look at this link everything I've said here will make WAY more sense:

http://www.atraonline.com/manuals/general/tetdv/tetdv-c3e.htm

Hopefully this helps you out, it was a way cheap fix for me. Just ask if you have any questions.

what is the best mech pump to swap on to a 1995 6.5 w/5 speed and manual wastegate control? I'd like as much power as I can get with out going into the engine.

I am not sure exactly sure what pump number you should use but if you want the most power GM had from these engines I would get a pump off a 1 ton with the 1 ton injectors. I think the injectors have more to do with how much fuel/power your engine has.

The pump itself might be the same for all models though because I was told the turbo and natural-aspirated trucks used the same pump. In a Diesel the pump only pumps as much fuel as air supply is available to burn it.

stanadyne 4974 is the 250hp marine pump. from scratch without a core it will cost about $1000 to build one.

Having a '93 fully mechanical and two EFI controlled trucks, I say to each his own.
The mechanical is simple to modify, but the EFI is untapped potential.

I wouldn't say I'm ignorant of electronics , just learning.

jjw565--


if you rig up the switches how does the trans regulate line pressure or does the constant 12v make it run as high as it can all the time? Also its a 4l80e but your link got me one page away.

I just noticed in your signature that you have a 3" body lift. What was done with the fan shroud?

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/8EC_DSCF0165.JPG

i cut it like the trailmaster kit said but i had to make this aluminum plate to get enough pull through the radiator to keep it cool.

That looks like what I need. Did you just cut it with a tin shears? What thickness is it? Did you close up the gaps on the side too?


Mine also has a notch cut in it for the radiator hose. I don't know if it was needed but that is how it was when I bought the truck. I wish mine was as clean as yours.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/E19_fan.jpg

i took the top of the shroud off and made a cardboard template dropping the same curve 3" strait down. the thickness is 3/32 i don't know what gauge that would be but it's pretty rigid. i cut it out with a jig saw. cleaned the edges hit the surface with a wire wheel to give a brushed look(and hide scratches). i then riveted it on to the outer lip with washers on the backs to reinforce. when i first put it on i didn't have long enough rivets so i just ran it on with some sheet metal screws. whatever you use you just don't want any chance of that thing coming off. i have more pics but they may be too big to upload if they don't work give me your email and i'll send them to you.

My email is whatnot@ureach.com


If over 15 mb let me know so I can give you a different email address.

lupey,

In answer to your question about transmission pressure, from what I can tell and what I've heard it defaults to max pressure. This is a good thing because it will keep you from stretching the bands in the transmission. From my experience driving it the only shift that kind of kicks you in the ass though is 1st to 2nd, the others are smooth just like the original operation of the thing. The 1st to 2nd shift isn't too bad though if you shift around 20 kph and take your foot off the gas.

how hard would it be to change my ecu out for a 93 it would be nice to retain driveability. I bet those 93 ecu's are not easy to find and probably big $.

google search perfomance 6.5 and you should get this shop in canada that sells '93 ecu reflashes for 4L80E controll. I think about $300.

JJW565


How long have you run this way? To me, it seems as a great way to grenade a tranny.


Somehow, I think that the gist of the document at the link provided is that directly powering the shift solenoids is for diagnostic purposes only.


Tim

yeah, I kind of had the same thoughts but at the time I was between a rock and a hard place, essentially no money and I had to get the thing mobile.

However since hooking it up this way I have put on about 3000 miles, lots city with lots of shifting and the performance of the tranny hasn't changed. I recently got back from a 1000 mile road trip and it worked great, when I went to pass on the highway I would just switch off the TCC and boot it, then turn it back on, seems to work fine. I checked the oil for that burning transmission smell and all seems ok. I do make sure though not too really put it too the mat while I am shifting, I try to let up and it shifts reasonably soft.

there are always 6.5 electronic pumps on e-bay for around 200-500 dollars. my recommendation would be to keep the electronic pump. tuning can be done with the computer alot easier. for performance purposes.

I second that, while the DS Electronic pump does have its querks and the old DB is still the longevity king in comparison, electronic timing and transmission controls are still the way to go, it is afterall a far superior IP. It also doesn't have nearly the problems with 'hard start hot' that the old DB pumps were infamous for, not to mention expensive.

i am tired of second guessing this f'd up electronic system the performance gains from the mech pump will help but i really want this thing to run on one wire and when very wet. ask yourself this: If it wasn't for this electronic pump would i know half as much about this engine? these thing have a way of forcing you to become an expert or trade it in.

Master it or trade it in. I'd say that sounds right.
It probably has to do with the numerology of 6.5, 6+5=11 ( 11 being the master intuitive)
and 396 which is a healing harmonic of hexagonal hydrocarbons.


Personally, the mastery won't stop till I make the quantum leap and she flies.Edited by: quantum mechanic

and 396 x 11 = 4356 which is exactly how many times i've wondered if a 357 really will put a hole in the block!

I'd have to agree with Lupey! aside from the fuel mileage increase the main reason I switched to a Diesel in my truck was for reliablity and easy troubleshooting. I love the fact that I only need 1 wire conected to my engine to make her run.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif(plus 3 to my transmission). I just got plain tired of the worn out gas fuel injection system with its crappy burnt out sensors and pain in the ass troubleshooting. (not to mention stalling in heavy rain) I will admit that there are advantages to the precision settings one can attain from a computer controlled engine and without the computer there wouldn't be a Duramax but on these old engines I haven't heard of any really large increases in power etc. More times guys have squeezed extra juice out of these things from non-electronic things like exhaust, higher boost etc.

Its not that I am afraid of the electronics, I am an engineering student and if I had the time I have considered making my own microcontroller that would have a user interface to optimize things like mileage/power. ( I am currently working on one for the tranny, that would cost far less than the aftermarket options)

sorry for the looong post but one last thing...

The electronic injection pump is esentially the same as the mechanical as far as the fuel pumping part goes, so I don't see why the 'hard start hot when worn out' thing would go away.