I've done some searching around here and have found out some possibly useful information. I'll pose the question anyway, and see what it catches. As the title says, while I was driving the truck stopped running (as if it were out of fuel). I recently changed the fuel filter.

I've read about the bleeder screw being loose or having a bad seal and/or filter/filter housing leaking. I'll check these items as I replaced the filter a few days ago.

UPDATE SINCE POSTING: I primed the system (open bleeder, pumped out all air, closed bleeder, pumped till firm) and blamo, the truck started and ran fine.

The truck takes 2 full seconds to start when warm. I have also read on here this could indicate injector problems. How can I know for sure? How do I "check" the injectors to know if they need replacing.

you have any mods on the truck or is it stock? the only real way to check the injectors is to check the balance rates with either a tech II or predator. How is your oil level? If it is overfull or smells of diesel, your injectors are leaking into the crankcase. Also, which brand of filter did you install. I have heard of some filters being too restrictive....but that usually involves a different problem. Take a close look at your bleeder screw...they have been know to have hairline cracks in them too.

I did not notice any particular disel odor when I draided the oil, nor did I notice any floating on top. But I still have it in the old bottles and will check again.

There was no sign of leaking around the filter housing or around the bleeder or filter. I'll check again.

I'll replace the bleeder screw and o-ring just for grins and give the filter another pull to tighten it.

I can not recall the brand filter, it was the cheap one. I've started to run some additive and bio-diesel and was planning on changing the filter out soon anyway. Maybe I made a mistake by going the cheap route.

Maybe I can post up to see if anyone in the local North Austin area has a Tech II or predator (sure don't want to buy one if I have to shell out for new injectors...ouch....)

Load a sig so that we know what truck you have and any mods...
Majority of the fuel system is under a vacuum so you will not see any leaking.
Fuel filters are all made by the same company, so it doesn't mater what name is on it.
Leaks around the filter seals and bleed valve are common. Leaking heads are staring to become common...
You can get a new predator for $400 or less. good investment, they read and clear trouble codes also.
Balance rates can be good but injectors bad.
Injector symtoms...long or no start, fuel in oil, smoke, loss of power, rough idle, just to name the common ones.

The truck shut down again this morning. I jumped out, blead it out, and it started with in 3 seconds of cranking. I need to get a new bleeder screw (just incase it's damaged) and a new O-ring. A part number would help (got it: 97363195).

The truck is stock accept for a muffler and air intake mod. I do not detect an odor of fuel in the oil, nor did I see any separation (poured some out into a clear jar). I am going to send some off and have it tested. I've got a bit of time before the warranty runs out on the injectors.

It takes a while to start (2 seconds and then it catches), but I have no way of knowing if this is normal or not.

There is no smoke at any point.

The idle is smooth and will occationally bump up 50-100 rpm. Never enough to make me worry.

It makes mad power, drives well and gets good milage.

It has a detectable ticking noise at idle that is rather random on the drivers side. I have not pin pointed it yet. UPDATE: On this point, I found this - http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70727&highlight=ticking
check out the fourth post down. This describes excactly the ticking I hear.

Thanks all for the help so far. I am sending my oil off to Black Stone Labs to be broken down and anylized.

put an ac delco fuel filter back on thats what just saved me last week do a search on my posts and you'll see mine was doing the same thing.

Well, it seems that the A/C Delco filter is the same as the no name brand I bought at parts house. The A/C filter I took off looked identical to the "other" brand I put on... it was then I started to wonder.

I still don't know if it's normal or not to take a couple seconds to fire up when warm. I'll just keep driving it, it runs good, and gets about 24 MPGs on the HWY ... if it blows to hell before I get my oil test results back, oh well.

From much discussion on this board about fuel filters...it is agreed upon that all filters are made by racor and a different label is put on them. Did you cut open the old filter and see how it looked?? Bio could have clogged a filter in less than a tank since it acts as a solvent and cleans out the fuel system. Hopefully you have no more problems.

If it runs good and gets 24 MPG, and other than taking 2-3 secs to start, after fixing the maybe problem, I would just drive it and see what happens next. No worries on injectors since they are covered to 200K.
Does that CAI have the oily filter? maybe you could use a MAF Cleaning. Just a thought......

The problem still exists. I replaced the bleeder screw and it has died twice since. It seems the idle will begin to jump when it starts to pull and accumulate air. I can tell it’s about it die out when it starts to really give a short 100 rpm surge every second. It will die; I’ll pull over, open the bleeder, prime it up and drive away. It will not surge for a good 10—15 minutes, and then it will slowly start surging again once in a while and then become for frequent until…caput. What else could be causing my system to draw air? Forgive me; I am new to this running gear. I have read here and there about the housing being cracked (witch I can’t see any) and the diaphragm pump on top can go bad. What else?

To answer your question, no, I did not cut the filter, though I should have just to look. I’ve been looking into the Nicktane (correct spelling?) set up more and more, but I’d like to cure my truck of its current issue before I mod.

The air filter is not all that oily. I do not douse them like some people mistakenly do. I’ve got my contact cleaner at home I use on all my other MAF sensors. I should clean it since you brought it up. I’ve been running K&N filters for over a decade with great success keeping in mind that the MAF will need a cleaning once in a while. It does not seem that the MAF being dirty would affect the fuel system becoming aerated. I could see it screwing up the idle, but my idle surging seems to be directly correlated to the fuel system being "bloated".

Thank you for your posts, I had similar symptoms this morning with my truck. I replaced the filter and re-primed. Seems to be running good now.
My fuel filter was filthy and contained a rusty grit down at the float sensor. I have never had this kind of grit in the fuel filter before. I'll re-post if the engine stopping problem persists. It sounds like you may have a leak in your fuel system (vacuum).

I do. Now, I have to find out where it is.... hmmmm, let the chase begin.

You sould check the o-ring on the primer pump. I have had to replace several of these.

I was thinking it looked a bit dirty around there. Do you or anyone else have a Part Number that I can reference on that (the o-ring or the whole assembly)? Thanks

I took my truck in for the fuel filter recall. Drove 200 miles and it quit and would not start. Started and stalled several times then began to run OK. Drove 60 more miles and it died again then started and ran OK. The next day it would not start. Problem was the mechanic stripped the threads on the black plastic air purge plug thereby letting air in the line. New plug seemed to fix the problem. I and apparently many dealers just prime the filter and leave the plug alone. Too bad GM didn't spend the extra nickel for a metal plug with an O-ring.

My bleeder screw was cracked, but the truck still maintains is current and previously mentioned problem. I am going to hunt down a new priming pump assembly. ....curious note, the truck runs much better and goes further with out issue when there is B20 in the tank... it could just be my imagination though.

I just saw a complete housing assy on Ebay for 50 bucks with a new filter on it, and no bids on it, I did throw it in the watch box let me see id I have deleted it or not.....

Nope, deleted it, sorry. But keep a look out on Ebay, I have seen them on there before.....

its the injectors , same thing happened to me last year , took 4 tows to the shop before the stealer found the problem , and i had to get a dodge to tow my camper back from the lake ,almost made me embarassed to own a GMC it was one inj not holding pressure , thank god for the extension on the inj warranty.

I have been suspection the inj all along, but have yet to dive in and really find the truth. I been trying to kick up a Tec II or predator local to me so I can have a "look" at them. I'd rather not be buying a diagnostic tool if I am giong to have to shell out on some repair cost too. I guess I'll just drag it to the dealer one day and pay the $80 just to look at it...

It's hard to tell what it is, air leak, injector prob...who knows. It need's diagnostics to find out.

I have been suffering a similar problem with the engine dying or not starting till I prime the fuel system. I have replaced filter and o-rings for second time and checked everything for tightness. I am getting frustrated. I plan on taking the truck into the dealer to see if I can get it checked out. I will post later as to the cost and what the issue is.

I have been suffering a similar problem with the engine dying or not starting till I prime the fuel system. I have replaced filter and o-rings for second time and checked everything for tightness. I am getting frustrated. I plan on taking the truck into the dealer to see if I can get it checked out. I will post later as to the cost and what the issue is.it should cost u nil because the injectors are covered with labor

Thanks for the info. Sorry to say, I hope it's the injectors so it isn't so costly. Going to the dealer on Tuesday.