I have a Racor fuel filter kit that I'm about to install. I really don't like the idea of cutting the metal fuel line to make the install. My idea is to purchase a new section of the fuel hose with the quick-connects at each end. I will then cut the fuel hose in half and use 2 double barbed hose connectors to connect the Racor filter kit. I will need to use some stainless steel cable clamps to keep the hoses from moving around under the truck. If I ever need to take the fuel filter out of service for any reason, all I need to do is un-do the quick-connects and put the original fuel hose back on.


Has anyone ever connected a Racor kit this way?

The Nictane set-up uses a NO cut method .... I would suggest checking out his Home Page for the method to use which he has in PDF for downloading and printing ...








Mac

I have a Racor fuel filter kit that I'm about to install. I really don't like the idea of cutting the metal fuel line to make the install. My idea is to purchase a new section of the fuel hose with the quick-connects at each end. I will then cut the fuel hose in half and use 2 double barbed hose connectors to connect the Racor filter kit. I will need to use some stainless steel cable clamps to keep the hoses from moving around under the truck. If I ever need to take the fuel filter out of service for any reason, all I need to do is un-do the quick-connects and put the original fuel hose back on.


Has anyone ever connected a Racor kit this way?



Why not put the unit under the hood (2'nd alt position)? All you have to remove is the short feed line from the EDU to the OEM filter head and connect the Racor in/out accordingly. If you want to pull it(Racor unit) out of service it's a 10 min job to reverse. No cutting involved.

Mike,


The OEM hose is quite stiff (and expensive) - not sure if the hose barbs would work (??). The OEM QD's are also known to be susceptible to vacuum leaks. Many folks here are using the 7/16 ID gates fuel hose with SS clamps (a bear method). Just remove the OEM hose and slip the hose over the fuel sender nipple and OEM steel fuel line. Here are some pics ...
misc OEM and gates hose pics (http://community.webshots.com/album/67970835fahHeh)

gates 7/16 id hose covered with wire braid (http://community.webshots.com/photo/77018086/78005907sMphPW)

Filter inlet/outlet hose installed (http://community.webshots.com/photo/77018086/78005228CHjpzK)
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif





Edited by: jbplock

I put in a Racor supplemental filter on the frame rail about 14 months ago. I used the exact technique Jbplock describes above (as a matter of fact, I got the idea from him). "Just remove the OEM hose and slip another hose over the fuel sender nipple and OEM steel fuel line." Sometime later, the Nicktane filter system used the same method. So there are quite a few people out there using this interconnect method.


The advantage of this method is if you want to go back to the stock setup, you just remove two fuel lines and put the stock OEM hose in place. It works great. The other thing is there are no pressure drops, the fuel line runs are almost at the same level as the filter (unlike those that have installed filter systems under the airbox and suffer increased restrictions in the fuel system). I have measure the vacuum at the test port before and after the supplemental filter installation. There was no measureable difference with the above frame rail installation technique.

I have a Racor fuel filter kit that I'm about to install. I really don't like the idea of cutting the metal fuel line to make the install. My idea is to purchase a new section of the fuel hose with the quick-connects at each end. I will then cut the fuel hose in half and use 2 double barbed hose connectors to connect the Racor filter kit. I will need to use some stainless steel cable clamps to keep the hoses from moving around under the truck. If I ever need to take the fuel filter out of service for any reason, all I need to do is un-do the quick-connects and put the original fuel hose back on.



Has anyone ever connected a Racor kit this way?







Why not put the unit under the hood (2'nd alt position)? All you have to remove is the short feed line from the EDU to the OEM filter head and connect the Racor in/out accordingly. If you want to pull it(Racor unit) out of service it's a 10 min job to reverse. No cutting involved.


Thanks for the suggestion and it is a great idea, but #2 alt is in the way... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

Mike,


The OEM hose is quite stiff (and expensive) - not sure if the hose barbs would work (??). The OEM QD's are also known to be susceptible to vacuum leaks. Many folks here are using the 7/16 ID gates fuel hose with SS clamps (a bear method). Just remove the OEM hose and slip the hose over the fuel sender nipple and OEM steel fuel line. Here are some pics ...
misc OEM and gates hose pics (http://community.webshots.com/album/67970835fahHeh)

gates 7/16 id hose covered with wire braid (http://community.webshots.com/photo/77018086/78005907sMphPW)

Filter inlet/outlet hose installed (http://community.webshots.com/photo/77018086/78005228CHjpzK)
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif





Bill -


That is a sweet setup. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif You did a great job. I think I will follow you and OC_Dmax and install mine the same way. The cable clamps look like they will keep the hose in place and the steel braid is added insurance against vibration wear and the elements.


One question: Did you have to drop the tank to connect to the fuel sender nipple?


Thanks!


Mike

[QUOTE=jbplock]**One question:* Did you have to drop the tank to connect to the fuel sender nipple?

Mike,

No, I didn't drop the tank but I did cut an access slot (http://community.webshots.com/photo/67970835/72255641wBdYMf) in the heat shield (with a removable cover (http://community.webshots.com/photo/67970835/72257196KTCvMU)). Getting to the top of the tank is quite awkward and if I were doing it again I think I would try dropping the tank. I also remember reading that the 04's are set up different and access to the tank sender is easier (?).

Be sure to get a QD removal tool (http://community.webshots.com/photo/67970835/72255850UuKWsX) with a deep collar (the Lisle works well). The QD's can be a challenge to get loose - especially when not dropping the tank. There are 4 tabs inside the QD fitting (http://community.webshots.com/photo/67970835/72256238bjrjGJ) that have to be depressed and it can be difficult to get the tool aligned so all four tabs are engaged.
Hope this helps .. Good luck on your install!

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif