i heard there was a way to make your own boost valve? anyone know how? how about pictures? my buddy has a old 7.3 idi and wants one. guess he can push like 15psi max out of it. let me know. thanks

The valve everyone makes for the D Max is a 1/4" brass In-line water valve.
I cut the feed hose going to the waste gate, spliced the valve in there.
Opening the valve lets boosted pressure out in stead of heading straight to the gate and blowing it open.
I would think it would do it for the FORD, But ya know this is Privledged info, not to be shared with "Them Guys".

It works better if you put a 90 in it to cause the air to have to bleed off fully . It will sometimes just blow through the strait design . Its just what I found to work better ! Bighead will do the best job !

would you just put a bolt in the line and disconnet the waste gate???? i have been thinkin about it..........

Not unless your lookin to upgrade that turbo.

Not unless your lookin to upgrade that turbo.


dats a fact jack !

Tys the truck wrecker !

The valve everyone makes for the D Max is a 1/4" brass In-line water valve.


so if i send him to hardware store what all does he need to buy? just this brass water valve? is is adjustible? im guessing you will need a gauge to see what he is boosting to adjust it. thanks

have any pics?

Not unless your lookin to upgrade that turbo.
i am just not yet...........
dats a fact jack !

Tys the truck wrecker !
good thing he is in alberta and im in so cal:)

Not unless your lookin to upgrade that turbo.50,000 miles with a pair of vice grips on the waste gate hose. I've ran a lot of high hp tunes. My BG say 32 psi max. No problems here. I say block it. New turbo? why?

50,000 miles with a pair of vice grips on the waste gate hose. I've ran a lot of high hp tunes. My BG say 32 psi max. No problems here. I say block it. New turbo? why?

Over 60000 miles on my old 2001 LB7 with edge and now over 50000 miles with my 2003. Wastegate supply hoses disconnected and folded over. Never seen more than 30 PSI boost and to my knowledge the turbo is good for 32 or so. would be a good idea to keep an eye on the boost gauge though Cant imagine why this would wreck the turbo anyone have any FIRST HAND experience?

i know the gray area is 35# and above from what duratothemax has told me you start frying turbos

im going to try it if it goes above 35 then im undoing it

I am going to go out on a limb and say that you will be ok I have 200+ HP tune and I have had no problems. all of the expensive parts out there that change the boost pressure with valves and things like that are a waste of money. Use the boost gauge for what it is intended not just fun to watch a needle sweeping a gauge face Those numbers mean something

:rant:

right now the boost guage is teed into the wastegate line it maxes out round 27psi with the big head acuator

ill try it tomorrow when daylight......havent hooked the gauge light up yet:banghead:

right now the boost guage is teed into the wastegate line it maxes out round 27psi with the big head acuator

ill try it tomorrow when daylight......havent hooked the gauge light up yet:banghead:




You just may beable to be convinced that a set of Juice Grips (TM) is a good idea :eek:

Here's mine, you can't see the hole cause its on the other side. I had some spare parts laying around so i just used them. 1/4 brass nipple amd (2) hose connectors. Maxed out at 30psi on the Bastard Stack. I will see what EFI can do;)

You just may beable to be convinced that a set of Juice Grips (TM) is a good idea :eek:


juice grips as in vice grips???? is so i believe it would be cheaper to shove a 5/16 bolt in there and a hose clamp.....or i could cap one side of the tee.......:rolleyes:

All this talk of clamping the gate .......:rolleyes: .Its all fun till the BANG you hear is reality. :eek: Then your truck is running away from you at ridiculous rpms . In a freight of panic you try and shut the engine off to no prevail ,:( ......BECAUSE THE ENGINE NOW IS RUNNING ON ITS OWN FUEL SUPPLY ......OIL !;) AS YOUR TRUCK REVS PAST 5000 RPS BECAUSE ALL THE ELECTRONICS ARE DEAD AND TURNED OFF ............YOU WATCH AND CRY AS PISTONS MELT AND RODS BLOW THROUGH THE CYLENDER WALS..............:bawl:

GET THE PICTURE!

Adjusting boost has every thing to due with fueling. A small Edge box (hot or not) 30 psi is all that you will need . When you get into bigger programs 32 may benefit a tad but it better have the fuel to risk it. When running the top HP tunes 34 is risking it all day but you get added performance as you have all the fuel to light it up . That being said you are on very shaky ground doing any thing above 32 at the CAC . I know first hand and can tell you blowing a turbo is not a fun thing !:(

juice grips as in vice grips???? is so i believe it would be cheaper to shove a 5/16 bolt in there and a hose clamp.....or i could cap one side of the tee.......:rolleyes:



Yeah sure its cheaper :rolleyes: But theres something to be said about being Juice Grip (TM) Certified when trying to gain boost ):h

More reading here just for you.... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35010&highlight=JUICE+GRIPS

ok so back to the origional post. how do i make the boost valve and adjust it?

Get a brake line T. Screw a plug in one end , put the water valve t in the top. Put a 1/4 hose fitting on the other end. A 1 inch piece of 1/4 inch copper tubing with a compresin fitting in the out put of the water valve . The water valve is a restriction , and can be set infinitely as its fully adjustable. It lets air through or stops it . The 90 degree in the design helps as it stops the air from just blowing by the opening and not being as efficient . I tried about every design when I was using a bleeder before the Bighead and this was the best and most accurate !


The plug is out in this pic but goes in the end opposite the hose inlet for the waste gate line from the turbo !

This is C.A.P's bleeder,........ send all beer cold !

Ya, I disconnected the WG all together, Best boost I saw was 30 ish maybe 31 just for a second. Stock turbo's may NOT make so much boost that it is going to foul something up????
Just my .02.....but that could cost thousands.

Get a brake line T. Screw a plug in one end , put the water valve t in the top. Put a 1/4 hose fitting on the other end. A 1 inch piece of 1/4 inch copper tubing with a compresin fitting in the out put of the water valve . The water valve is a restriction , and can be set infinitely as its fully adjustable. It lets air through or stops it . The 90 degree in the design helps as it stops the air from just blowing by the opening and not being as efficient . I tried about every design when I was using a bleeder before the Bighead and this was the best and most accurate !


The plug is out in this pic but goes in the end opposite the hose inlet for the waste gate line from the turbo !

This is C.A.P's bleeder,........ send all beer cold !

Hmmm. What kinda boost are you seeing?

Ya, I disconnected the WG all together, Best boost I saw was 30 ish maybe 31 just for a second. Stock turbo's may NOT make so much boost that it is going to foul something up????
Just my .02.....but that could cost thousands.

If you guy's put a Good Big tune in your truck as CAP said and your Waste Gate is unpluged you can just about bet you'll bury a 35 PSI gauge. I wouldn't recomend it.. Put a Big Head on it and have some adjustment. Not every tune will load the engine enough to put out that kinda boost, but the good ones will. It's only a $180 bucks.. Cheap conpared to the carnage CAP explained. And 31 psi is plenty on a stock charger..

Joey

Will the computer compensate for the increase boost by adding the proper amount of fuel for those who have not yet purchased any type of programmer.

okay guys like i said im new to the diesel thing so just a quick question!! may sound dumb to many but im lost!! could someone post a picture of where the valve goes? Im not sure where its supposed to be spliced in at!!:help: Thank You

Well this is a close up, but its the little hose coming out of the wastegate that runs infront of the turbo. As you can see, I just bought a valve. But anyway, hope this helps:

Will try to find a better further away pic.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garageimage.php?do=full&p=9956

Okay, got a better pic of the hose (inside the red box outline):

(** Pic from PPE's .pdf install sheet **)

Hmmm. What kinda boost are you seeing?

When I ran it I would see any where from 30 to 40 psi at the upper limit! It didn't work out so well at the latter , ...........POW.............went the turbo . Fueling in the tune has every thing to do with it . A good fueling tune you will see 30 lbs with a stock gate , some gates are weaker than others but fuel with out air is a smoke bomb and air with out fuel is over spinning the turbo !

Will the computer compensate for the increase boost by adding the proper amount of fuel for those who have not yet purchased any type of programmer.

without a programmer you dont need or will you see any more boost.

the air valve is so un reliable, why doesnt any one use a spring/ball design boost control?

so with this homemade valve, you regulate how much boost is going to the turbo by turning the bleed screw? can someone explain how this effects teh turbo and generally works? thanks

so with this homemade valve, you regulate how much boost is going to the turbo by turning the bleed screw? can someone explain how this effects teh turbo and generally works? thanks

it slows the airflow going to the wastegate, which usually means a little faster spool and you can also regulate the amount of boost required to open the wastegate. more boost if youve got fuel = more power. have to be careful though the stock turbo goes kaboom around 34 psi.

all bleeders are a band aid on a wart . To solve the real issue get a BIGHEAD !

all bleeders are a band aid on a wart . To solve the real issue get a BIGHEAD !

if you can get a bleeder to only let you have right around 32psi doesnt seem like a band aid to me. i dont see any reason to adjust max boost, once you get it where you want it (under kaboom point of course) seems like thats exactly what you want. my .02 though

so 30-32 is safe?

PPE TURBO BOOST INCREASE VALVE 01-04 GM DURAMAX DIESEL

GO FROM BOOSTING 18-20 PSI TO 28-30 PSI BEST PRICE
Buy It Now $27.50
Shipping $5.00

(ebay) sound about right in price?

so 30-32 is safe?


I ran mine in that range with no problems. Just be carefull when/if you change tunes. I have a spare if you need it ):h

what does a new turbo go for? aftermarket and stock?

ok, so no one has tried a reliable way of controlling boost? just sticking a air bleed valve in?

ok, so no one has tried a reliable way of controlling boost? just sticking a air bleed valve in?

Controlling Boost? That's easy- with a gauge, right foot and a good tune.
DJ, these valves are to get MORE boost, more than stock boost, maybe not to control it so much, just get more.:ro)

ok, so no one has tried a reliable way of controlling boost? just sticking a air bleed valve in?

the valves work fine, you just have to watch the boost gauge. as said they are to increase boost up from stock. the last time i remembered to look at the boost gauge going down the track i was at 25 with PPE's boost increaser and PPE Hot set on "kill"

30-32psi is safe as in i dont think many (any) body has blown one at those pressures but many have gone kaboom at 34.