Can somebody give me some help...I would like to put together a propane kit and I need some help...I need a list of things to buy and a diagram to put it together.I just need a basic kit nothing fancy just something to help with gas milige:ro)..I have a 2002 3/4 cC d-max with edge juice , intake,and exhaust.

You need a propane tank, a regulator, UL approved selonoid for gas, a switch, lines and an injector. You should install a 1/4 turn ball valve some where you can get to it incase the noid sticks.
If you have a pick up, 20lb tanks will work.
Get the biggest regulator you can find, I got a 700,000BTU/hr 70psi regulator for $20.
You might have a hard time finding a 12 selonoid, but a 24v one will work fine got mine for $40.
For LPG line you can use 3/16" fuel injection line.
For the injector you can make it.

BBQ bottles are not DOT approved. You should use a forklift tank. If you do use a BBQ bottle, you better put it in a toolbox or hide it somehow, you could get in trouble with the Man.

Basically every propane bottle is DOT approved. DOT approval simply means it is safe to be transported filled. Think.......every pop up and travel trailer with two tanks mounted in front of the trailer for example. ;) Actually, forklift bottles are one of the very few that are "sometimes" not due to their aluminum construction.

When building a home made system, you have to be sure you get the proper components, most importantly the "noid" , which is the first line of safety. The right one for this job should not stick, and should be an automotive, lpg rated solenoid for example. Fuel line will not work or be safe if are not doing the regulation at the tank. High pressure propane hose with the proper ends are needed. Some people have used acetlyene regulators which are really not meant for propane.........ya, they might work........but for how long.??

You may save a few dollars building your own........it might even work after some adjusting and dialing.......but if it doesn't and something goes wrong............how much have you saved? Then propane will be "BAD", not the fact that you did it incorrectly. Safety should be your first concern..not $$$ when it comes to your $40k+ truck.

What powershotone said, X2.

Just my .02 Don't mean to bust an idea but...you may use less DIESEL FUEL with a propane system, but propane is not free. I don't know how much it takes to make a significant difference in MPG DIESEL, but wouldn't the cost of the propane alone counter act the savings in DIESEL FUEL? not to mention the cost of the system, and the hassel of filling the bottle all the time? seems to me propane is really only good for making extra power and think of the added MPG DIESEL as an added benefit it guess. But overall fuel cost PER MILE may not be that different, it just doesn't seem worth it to me to buy/build a kit for that purpose alone, it could take a REALLY long time for it to "pay for itself". Build it to go faster and use the fuel milage to legitimize it if you need to. I could be wrong, I haven't had to buy propane in awhile and don't remember the cost, It's still warm here, and I BBQ with charcoal.

Jesse, even if the cost per mile remained the same (and I've heard both that it stays the same and that it goes down a bit, depends on your propane costs) installing propane can still be worthwhile due to the significant amount of extra power that you have.

I've also heard that with propane you burn the diesel more completely, which means less soot in your oil, which leads to longer engine life as well.

I have designed my system so it can not damage any thing. I am not insane for power I will never get.
Yes I like the less soot thing.
Before I would change my oil and it would turn black as tar with in a week.
Now I have put all most 1,000mi and it is just starting to turn.
Well Propane (around 100,000BTU/gal)has about 2/3 the BTU's of diesel (up to 147,000BTU/gal). So you have to buy your propane for about 2/3 of the price of diesel. That is easy if you buy bulk, around $2/gal.
It is even easier if you live up north or out west where diesel is around or over $3/gal.
In winter your diesel gets you less bang for your buck because if the lower gel point blend fuel, propane has all most No change between winter and summer.
Now in the winter when they have the winter blend of diesel (duha), I have heard that it can cut milage by up to 10% because of less BTU's from the lighter hydrocarbons and maybe less oilyness.
I have seen BTU ratings for diesel from 140,000BTU's to up to 147,000BTU's.
But remember 85% of propane is domesticly produced here in the U.S.
It is kind of like paying more for Bio-diesel, because a lot more of your money stays in the U.S.

also if adding the propane causes more of the diesel to be burned you end up actually useing more of the BTU's from the diesel, the increased milage isn't just the added fuel value of the propane

I have never run just a little bit of lp to see if the cost/mile is lower than with straight #2. I run alot of lp, and until #2 came down recently, it was saving me 4¢/mi. My recent purchase of lp was $1.45/gal. With #2 down to $2.47, it has cut my savings to a bit less than 2¢/mi. I do really like the clean oil thing. At 70K miles, I still have never changed it and it doesn't get black like typical diesel oil. ( I run a bypass filter) The extra power is a cool side benefit too. I have also grown to appreciate not filling the diesel tank for 1500 miles at a time.

My truck does not smoke when it is on propane.
When I floor my truck, puts out an ackrid methal mercaptain tainted whiteish haze insted of black smoke.

My truck does not smoke when it is on propane.
When I floor my truck, puts out an ackrid methal mercaptain tainted whiteish haze insted of black smoke.

"Ackrid methal mercaptain tainted whiteish"......haze.

I want that.:p:

I think the IDI isn't burning propane as good as a direct injected turbo diesel could burn it.
Because I was looking for some thing safe first thing on the tank is the regulator. A "Mr. Heater high pressure 0 to 70psi regulator", well it is more like a 5 to 60 psi the way I use it. Back when I had the .011'' injector on there it put out 70psi, now with the .042'' injector my reg puts out about 60psi.
On the out put of the regulator I have a stainless steel 1/4'' to 1/4'' pipe thread union driven into it. Joining the regulator to the UL approved 24v flameable gas noid.
I have broken many of brass and bronze male 1/4'' inch pipe thred unions at work trying to remove them form what ever they are installed in to and so know how weak they are.
The fuel line is Goodyear rubber FI line with 3/16'' ID, it can hold 75psi of gasoline 24hr aday for years with out problem.
Transporting unregulated LPG in this type of line would be suicide.
I would never advise any one to send unregulated LPG form the tank to any where, that is how I feel about that. Regulate it as soon as it comes out of the tank and have the regulator and the shut off selonoid attached to each other when possible.
And no Aluminum fork lift tanks. I can shoot a hole through 3mm heat treated 7075 air craft aluminum with a 22LR pistol from close range. So no aluminum. Aluminum is weak there for bad.

There is no problem running liquid or vapor lp from a tank. The proper lp hose has a stainless wire braid in it. My system, as well as every gasoline engine that has been converted to lp, runs tank pressure liquid to the vaporizer/regulator under the hood. If the line would ever get torn or cut, there is an excess flow shut off valve in the tank valve. It will seal off immediately.