Does anyone here use water mist injection?


I am considering installing a kit on my truck. Right now it looks like I will go with a Heathdiesel kit unless I find something better. I will probably order it before monday.

I'm in the process of building one currently, I'm waiting on the nozzle to arrive in the mail. I had a buddy that built one and is shipping me a 0.17GPM nozzle. I will use a standard water pump (RV style) that has a pressure regulator on it to keep the pressure at 100 psi.


I'll keep ya posted if you would like on my homemade system but by the looks of it I'll have maybe 100 in it at most, I know from speaking with my buddy he has about this.


System is pretty basic just use a nozzle that has a cone pattern (inject after the turbo), but limit it's use to only when your jamming on the go pedal and the boost is up. I'm going to hook up a oil pressure switch I got laying around off an 7.3 IDI, they were basically switches (on after 7psi) figured this would work just fine. I will wire in a switch for on the dash that will enable or disable the system. This way if I happen to loan the truck out I can turn the splish splash system off. (which loaning is not something I do - but never know).


I'm a more of a do it youself type so for me building vs buying is just more natural. Plus I have the fun of doing it, then once I'm done... I get the braggin' rights that go along with it. Plus I don't have much fear as if I blow it up it won't be the first time and surely won't be the last.

I salute you and you noble mission.

Why not collect the A/C condensation, filter and inject it?
It's cold, and it's right there.

One thing you will want to be sure to put in the system is a solenoid valve just before the nossle.


I would build one myself but figured that I would end up with almost as much in it by the time I finished and it wouldn't work as good as the kit made just for a 6.5 engine.

Tractor supply sells 12v solenoids for agricultural sprayers and they have the nozzels to boot.

I made a set up a few years back when I got my first 6.5. I took a small trans cooler, a auto zone special.Took it to a Sheet metal shop that made A/C ducts ect. He built me a Reactangular box that inclosed the trans cooler. The box was just thick as it needed to be for the cooler to fit snug. The barbs for the hoses went out the side and I sealed those up with strip cauliking. Both sides a a piece of exhaust pipe welded to it. I took the rubber sleeve loose from the turbo and intake and cut the upper intake manifold inlet down so the trans cooler would fit in between the turbo and intake. Put a rubber sleave on both sides and clamped it in place. I had a big igloo cooler in the bed of the truck.. I used a 12 volt fuel pump and ran a line from the cooler in the bed to the fuel pump then to the trans cooler. The other line on the trans cooler I looped back the cooler in the bed as a return line. When ever I knew I was going to be making hill climbs or whatever I would buy 3 bags of ice and fill it with ice and water. I would just turn the pump on and let it run. I didnt really think it helped all that much, but the guy that bought the truck from me sure thought it was cool.Edited by: DarrenPayne

Why not collect the A/C condensation, filter and inject it?
It's cold, and it's right there.


I've seen you mention this a few times, and each time it gets my attention. Have you posted info on this in the past, and if so could you steer me towards it? I've also heard folks talking about plumbing the cold air from the a/c into the intake. How would that work out? And would the gains from that be enough to compensate for the power loss coming from running the a/c compressor?

Darren, rubber fish,

I made my first intercooler almost the same way darren did.
Except I used The A/C system to cool the core instead of the ice water in an igloo.
It uses a stock A/C evaporative core and receiver/dryer run piggyback behind the frist one.
There is plenty of cold in that gas as it leaves the first receiver/dryer,
that's why it ices up when the A/C system is on.I had a custom hose made to go between the first receiver dryer
and the new core fittings.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/76A_acintercooler.jpg
I havn't put in a thermometer, but based on the relative tempature of the new mainfold when I lay my hand against it,
The core drops about 150 degs with the compressor is on. With it off the new manifold was too hot to touch and with it on,
cool to the touch after 69 miles.

My plans were to reconfigure the manifold to where it lays horizontally.
I know it's ulgy but I was after function first.
With the A/c off I wonder how much passive cooling it does?

It cost about $200 to put it together.
This system condensates watervapor out of the air, so your water misting all the time on a humid day. doesn't skip a beat though.

....And yes the A/C system blows cold as ever.Edited by: quantum mechanic

I salute you and you noble mission.

Why not collect the A/C condensation, filter and inject it?
It's cold, and it's right there.


Are you near El Paso? I don't know if we could collect enough here. I usually only make short trips so it won't be a big deal to just fill it with new water.


The reason I asked about location is because on the radio a few days ago, they said that El Paso is the sweat capital of the country (or maybe world, I can't remember which)


Someone did a study on it and calculated that if the sweat was collected of every person there that they could fill the municiple swimming pool once every hour.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Shocked.gif

I ordered a Heath kit earlier this week and it should be here early next week.


I am looking for suggestion on what to use for a tank and where to put it. (cheap or free is preffered)


I have an extended cab short box truck. I was thinking about putting it under the back seat but it couldn't be very big and I would lose the junk storage place.


I was also thinking of first trying it with the windshield washer tank but need the bug remover washer fluid with the bugs he have had lately.

El Paso is too dry to notice any sweat.
Houston on the other hand is a nine month sweat fest.

If you go to a junk yard, you could find a good resevoir
thats made to mount in the engine bay.

I think I would rather mount it somewhere else on the truck. The water will get hot in the engine compartment.

This whole WMI vs. IC issue is like the abortion issue or, was Clinton a good Pres or, should we have gone to war in Iraq, etc. etc.


Does anyone have any data, either sourced or personal experience that can give us some idea as to what IAT readings are at various boost levels and without any type of charge-air cooling? Compare these pre IAT measurements to post IAT measurements after the installation of either a WMI system or IC, and voila! Sounds simple enough, so what am I missing?


I just don't understand why I've heard that the PS and Cummins guys have been more willing to experiment with WMI, yet the 6.5TD crowd (for the most part) thumbs their nose at WMI. I would love some simple data and forego the unpleasantness of having to read the drivel that comes from those who are bent on pursuing their own agenda.

It's been a bad day so I apologize for the harsh words. I simply wish I had some real data in order to make an informed decision.

Spin my IC netteted me 108-113 IAT 7-15 psi boost 75mph on 88-91F day this past Sunday, I did not record IC inlet temp my probe was in use for FSD test, no agenda on my part, I think the WMI works, but for my purposes I don't feel like fooling around with a water tank, plus I like full time cooling of the IC Edited by: Turbine Doc

Spin my IC netteted me 108-113 IAT 7-15 psi boost 75mph on 88-91F day


Not bad, not bad at all.


TD...how, where, what are you using to measure your IAT?Edited by: spindrift

I have a Snap On MT-2500 scanner that gives pretty much all data as a T-2, so I used the engines IAT sensor. I bought the scanner used from a buddy that used to run a repair shop, I've seen them on ebay $500-1500 used.


For verification I used my Sears thermocouple, it is good for 0-500F goes for $40 IIRC, module that plugs into a digital volt meter, I put the module under the hood and 2 long wires from it to the meter so I can read temps while I drive.


For IAT I slipped it into intake coupling to read air going to thge engine; I only did it long enough for verification of PCM/scanner output reading, I would not recommend leaving it in flowing air stream for long; as flowing air may cause cyclic fatigue of the sensing tip and I'm not sure the engine would digest it easily, it's only a thin piece of chromel/alumel wire but still a solid none the less, and last I heard for 6.5's or any ICE a solid food feeding in any amount isn't desired.


FYI that data was an empty bed run not towing, I would expect temp to maybe go higher in tow mode.Edited by: Turbine Doc

FYI that data was an empty bed run not towing, I would expect temp to maybe go higher in tow mode.


To clarify: Isn't 113* at 15 psi going to be the same regardless of whether you're towing or not? 15 psi is 15 psi (so to speak). Or, maybe you're 15 psi was a spike and not held for a sustained period of time, such as it would be under a load condition?

Yes spike to 15 @ 85+ mph, 7 psi sustained cruising 70-75 mph, 12-13 is what I see sustained when loaded & long grade climb, engine working harder when loaded. I just happened to have the numbers handy from my FSD temp tests last weekend, IIRC last time I towed heavy IAT was 125, but that was pre Heath 2.0 & hi Pop injectors, but max EGT on that tow was 750 post turbo so I know IC is doing it's job.


GMCTD might recall as I called him and talked the whole trip home (free weekend minutes) about every 5 minutes I would ask him "have I told you how well this truck pulls now".


It was a 12,600# pull I weighed is as I just had to know, still have the scale ticket. On flat ground I had it up to 75 mph, could have gone more I was only at 2300 rpm I think but 18,700 GVW was more than I felt comfortable to do at higher than 75mph with, cause after you get it rolling you gotta be able to stop it.Edited by: Turbine Doc