A quick thanks to this forum, it's GREAT! Now my question.

My truck; 2500HD CC D/A LT in Summit White with grey leather inside.

I pampered this truck the first 90 days of ownership. A few weeks ago I went to give the truck it's first real good hand wash and wax. Upon looking at the paint I found tiny rust colored specks EVERYWHERE on the exterior paint.
The service manager at my dealer said "it is industrial fallout from the atmosphere, it happens all the time to white trucks". He said I would need to pay for a professional detail including clay-bricking the paint...

It sure as hell looks like overspray to me, or maybe soot from a train. Ultimately it is MY FAULT, as I took delivery of the truck at night and never really looked at the paint until now.... Has anyone else encountered this???Edited by: colletti

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<TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNABLE="off">My '04 Summit White Sierra had the same problem. My stealer wouldn't resolve the problem under warranty either. It is most commonly known as "rail dust". Rail dust is very fine iron particles that come off of railroad car brakes, automotive brakes, snow plowing equipment and many other sources. It is NOT permanent damage. You can go the clay bar route, but that is a lot of work. I used a good quality low or non-abrasive car polish to remove the rail dust stains, then I gave it a good coat of Meguiars yellow paste wax. Once you have removed the stains and sealed the finish with a good carnubra paste wax, the rail dust spots don't come back as easily.http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif </TD></TR>
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<DIV id=hotbar_promo></DIV></TD></TR></T></T></T></TABLE>Edited by: Dura_Mike

You can buy the Mother's Clay Bar kit at Pep Boys for $18 (or other automotive stores) and do this yourself. I clay bar my vehicles once a year (minimum). It really removes the embedded particles from the paint.

Lustre Glaze had a product specifically for this when i used to detail vehicles for a dealer .


It is called industrial fallout remover. Contact your lustre Glaze dealer for more details... the stuff was majic!


Must be applied on a cool vehicle in the shade and lathered and the rinsed promptly.

This stuff has the same MSDS sheet as my lustre glaze stuff which is no longer publicly available.


http://www.zep.com/ProductCatalog/ProductBrowse.asp?img=automotive&amp;superSection=0&amp;se ction=20&amp;subSection=579 (http://www.zep.com/ProductCatalog/ProductBrowseimg=automotive&amp;superSection=0&amp;section =20&amp;subSection=579)

These guys have good stuff as well http://www.pssales.com/detailprods.html

Haven't tried this one but it does sound promising


http://www.nvo.com/prodcarcare/pages/store/skudetail.nhtml?profile=displayroom&amp;uid=10084&amp;catu id=10082&amp;returnURL=http%3A//www.nvo.com/prodcarcare/displayroom/category.nhtml%3Fcatuid%3D10082

Rail dust is a perfect example of what a clay bar is supposed to be used for! Claying is not much harder than washing your truck if you do it right and you can't get the results as fast with anything else. Ever erase a chalk board? Same thing! Let the bar do the work and take your time so you dont drop it. Once you go over it with clay you can wax/polish then use a microfiber towel to hand buff to a glass like finish. I clay my vehicles a couple times a year just to get any build up that washing doesn't take off. Here is a quick process for you:


Starting with a clean truck I use my gloss enhancer or quick detailer as a lube and clay the truck. Without buffing all the stuff off i hit it with my gloss enhancer. Still not buffing it off I apply the polish/wax. I then usually hit all my plastic trim and flares while the polish/wax dries then once more with the gloss enhancer to remove the wax/polish. Finish up with a good microfiber towel for any spots or hazing you missed and it is smooth as glass. Takes me around an hour to do the full deal. In between I just keep my truck washed and use the gloss enhancer until its time to strip and do over. Takes maybe 10 min to do the truck and it is clean all the time! Its also been 9 mo since I last clayed it so it is due again now. Prep work is everything!

Check out the ZAINO!!!! I have a black truck that is at the dirt races every week and that single product has been such a time saver considering how dirty my truck gets week in and week out!! www.zainostore.com (http://www.zainostore.com) and then check out all the tips and tricks and you can't go wrong. Little bit of initial work but the results are awesome!!

The same thing happened to me when I bought a brand new white 1996 Oldsmobile. I received the same explanation from the Service Manager.

Lucky for me, they were a good dealership and "clayed" the car at no charge. It came out like new. Open a case with Chevy if you think this happened before taking delivery.

That was the first I had ever heard of "claying" a car and was surprised how well it worked.

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<TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNABLE="off">How abrasive is a clay bar compared to a high quality polish or cleaner wax or Zaino product? I've never used a clay bar, but I've been told it is time consuming and it is more abrasive on the clear coat. Is there any truth to that?</TD></TR>
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Well my Cherokee got oversprayed at work when it was two months old. Red with white overspray from an underground parking facility next door. The detail shop I was sent to clayed it. First I'd ever heard of it either, but it looked great when I got it back. No swirls, scratches or anything.


The Jeep is now three years old and needed something again. I'd heard about the Zaino stuff here and wanted to try it for the truck. So I ordered the kit with the clay bars and swirl remover. It works GREAT and it's not as much work as waxing, just follow the directions and wax afterward.


I didn't get the final wax coat on the Jeep, but it looks good. I can't wait to put on the finish coat and try it on the truck.


Go for the clay bar...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


I'm also on board with all the others who recommend the Zaino around here. It seems a touch expensive, but it goes a long way and it really does seem better than anything I've used before.

claying will be a little time consuming but well worth it in the end.....just keep the clay bar lubricated with some really soapy water and your good to go