I got this truck from my dad who ran it all over texas, religously changed the oil, fuel filter, has done the fsd once and we are doing it again after reading the the stall, surge buck post on here. i was having the same problem, when I found this site..thank god .you guys know a whole lot it looks like. so anyway I would really like to know more about remotly mounting the fsd, for now the mechanic that is doing it doesn't see how it can be done. As for more power i'll try to read as much of the posted info as possible, but any other advise would be greatly appr. The truck runs awsome i drive it about 1000 miles a week, getting 17mpg, i can make it smoke, but it doesn't do it all the time....we've also run an oil additive called Prolong in this and two other gas5.7 that all went over 500000 two were crashed so who knows? as for mine i want a million Edited by: rique azlin

I showed how to install a splice in the FSD connection months ago. www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5238&PN=5 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5238&PN=5)





I'm not a mechanic, so I didn't see why it couldn't be done. I mounted it to a homemade cooler mounted on the firewall away from the block.


If you can make it smoke your low on boost.Edited by: quantum mechanic

Bill Heath has a remote FSD kit that allows you to mount the FSD outside the engine area. Heat is the killer. Check my site for pictures of my location under the front bumper.

alright!! i was hoping at least one of you two would respond, and i get both ....my lucky day...Ive read alot of your advice, i cannot wait to get my truck back to do some of these things..


So far since the bucking started i have purged the lines( dealer thought it sounded like air, then told me it was the IP..I told them not to touch it) replaced the fuel filter, airfilter, lift pump. I cleaned bowl of the fuel filter also, it had some stuff in the bottom.


I have every reciept from all maintenance and repairs, none of which includes any engine work at all, except for the fsd 200,000 miles ago. what do you think of the miles, should i go ahead and replace certain things before they cause major problems. Is there anywhere besides the dealer to get things like the FSD, OPS, wastegate S, etc.


what is difference between PMD, and FSD


387,674.2 miles

PMD, pump mounted driver, and FSD, fuel selinoid driver, are one and the same. GM uses one name and the rest of the world uses the other.


With that kind of milage you might want to look at the harmonic balancer on the front of the engine. The rubber between the hub and the outer ring sometimes cracks or expands out of the slot. This can cause an engine to fail if it gets to far out. If you remove the oil fill tube from the front of the timing chain cover you can see into the timing chain. While looking at the upper gear rock the crank back and forth to check angular slop between the movement of the crank before it shows movement in the upper gear. The other test would be a compression balance test before spending any real money.Edited by: HowieE

GM parts direct online has pretty reasonable prices on gm parts.


get a new wg solenoid/vacuum lines, and I think that I would work on removing intake/exhaust restrictions if you havn't yet. Your truck will run better.

is there a post on intake and ex. restr. on here


how long should a fuel pump last?

Rique, update your sig line so we have and idea what you have &to know how to best respond. Go through these posts should answer many of your questions.


Fuel pump could last indefinately, crud in fuel/rust from tank are the pump killers, try not to suck down to bottom of the tank where the settled rust & crud reside. Longevity is enhanced IMO with addition of frame rail mounted filter prior to the lift pump, I run a Racor 660R witha 20 mic as a primary filt


http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9936&PN=2


http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9103&PN=3

http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7707&PN=5


This post covers many of the 6.5 restrictions.
http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7077&PN=5Edited by: quantum mechanic

i got my truck back today....its running great!!! new fsd and intake manifold gasket, it still smokes, but i havn't done the wastgat yet, or checked the vac lines


the post on restrictions.....from quantum..i think its the wrong the one............ittalked about running the vin numbers on trucks.


found more info on the truck also its got the 6.5l turbo ho (L65)the 4l80 trans, hd trans cooler, 8600 lb gvw, 3.73 ratio, locking differential real axle.... was 27,898 six years ago, and i'm told i couldn't give it away now......not that i would i love the old terd, its very clean and i'm going to drive it till the wheels fall off.


when i get more money im going to check the compression and balance and i'll let you know what i find thanks for all the help.

One number transposed in the link and it doesn't work.

The vacuum system is prone to failure from dry rot of the vac lines,
aging of the vacuum pump, and the wg solenoid sticks and fails.

The waste gate will not close tight and allow boost to build without enough vacuum
pull. With the engine running check for vacuum pull at the vacuum line to the turbo.
Then trace that line back to the wg solenoid and unplug the other line and check for vacuum pull from the vacuum pump.
The vacuum should be almost twice as stong before the solenoid than after it.

Edited by: quantum mechanic

is this the thing with an accuator arm on bottom and a small vacuum line coming out the top.


where is the egr, i was going to unhook it

what is the 8th letter of your vin S=EGR F has none arm with can is waste gate actuator on back side of turbo


Go to this post for a photo of EGR


http://dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4842&KW=egrEdited by: Turbine Doc

I have an "F" in the eighth position in my vin, so i have no egr, and my wastgate soleniod, should be called a turbo soleniod?


With the truck running i have pulled the vac line off the "turbo soleniod" and it moves(down) then i put it back on and it moves all the way back up, i cannot push it up anymore, so is it closing all the way or could it still be bad.


still have black smoke when i get on it, ses light stays on

rique,

If you have enough pull to close the waste gate at idle, the vacuum pump is working.

Waste gate/turbo solenoid is the same thing on L65 (F).

The system either has a leak in the vacuum lines, a bad/sticky solenoid,
or the voltsignal/ground is bad.

I replaced the 10' of vacuum line and replaced the solenoid 10,000 miles back
and eveything in the system has worked fine, except my waste gate arm was sticking internally untill I fixed it.

You can put in the mechanical spring arm, but this is taking control away from the PCM.

Edited by: quantum mechanic

Rique...


If it does turn out that you have leaky vacuum lines, I actually have two sets for sale. They're for a 95, so I'm not exactly sure if they'll fit your 98 or not, but that could easily be figured out. One set is brand spanking new, and the other is used but don't leak. I'm trying to move both of them, so $15 plus shipping for both sets and they're yours. Shipping should be around $5 or less.

should i be able to hear the turbo, a whine or somthing? i hear nothing.


my exhaust doesn't look like the crimped and bent one QM posted, it comes from the drivers side header underneath the engine to the turbo in what looks like about a 3'' (crossover?) the other header goes to the turbo to. then the pipe coming down from that is a little crimped and twisted but it looks like a 3'' pipe as well, these pipes look pretty big to me


also you know that "can thing", on the passenger side valve cover with the tube coming out and going to the inlet side of the turbo, i removed the tube from the turbo and put my thumb over it, pressure built up and when i moved my thumb a light film of oil blew out all over my hand.......so this stuff is getting mixed witht he air my engine in burning right? is that right? is that good?

The stock exhaust is 2 3/4", stock crossover is 2 1/4".
A mandrel bent pipe won't have a crimp in it.

The CPRV sends engine vapors into the intake for combustion.
I have always wanted to make a "trap" and send it back to the block.