well this may sound like a stupid question but what the heck. I am not intrested in getting into pulling everyweekend but their is a local track that puts on i guess what you would call a street truck class. i have been to several and have some friends who pull but they all run dodges:( my question is the last 4 times i have been out of 12 trucks their are no d-max's out their. I just want to go and have fun and see what my truck will do. give some pride back to the gmc owners. i have a ppe xcelerator and stock trans. 325/60/18 nitto tires and just wondering on some advise on the set up i can use with stock configeration. i also have a set of 3/4 worn 305/70/17 mud terrains as well. any heads up would be great thanks

I'm no expert, in fact, I've never pulled myself. I have read about every thread in this sectio however and here are some of the things I've picked up on:

- tire choice is dependent upon track conditions. If its loose, run the mud terrains. If its hard packed clay you may try the Nittos especially since they contact patch is LARGE!!
- lower the torsion bars - some even remove the adjusting bolt completely
- I take it you aren't going to build a weight bracket for the front but do try to get as close to the max. allowed weight as possible (this is a typical statement but there are exceptions) and get as much of it close to the front as you can (in cab, under hood, etc.).
- Get a hitch that will allow you to be as close to the max. allowed hitch height as possible.
- Run the rear tires at max pressure (should be around 80psi or so) and the fronts at half that (or about 35-45psi)
- if you can and feel like it, get some ubolts to clamp your rear springs.
- Its HIGHLY advised, even for the occassional pull, to get tierod sleeves.
- may also want to strap the centerlink (do a search for "centerlink" in this section and you'll find a how-to thread with pictures - this goes for most of this other information as well)
- run 4lo 3rd gear Tow/Haul on and let it shift itself.


Thats about it for the occassional puller I'd say. Now go give 'er hell and let us know how you do. ;)

Good luck


C-ya

Centerlink strap is most important in my opinion.

centerlink strap and tierod sleeves may sound stupid but are these items something that you just put on before or just while pulling or it is something that stays on all the time. and how much work to install ?

The tie rod sleeves are a permanent feature. The centerlink strap can be achieved with a tie down strap, temporary use. But you can also buy a permanent strap from places like Cognito. I have never installed the sleeves, so unsure of install time. I have a set sitting on my kitchen table waiting for a rainy day. I have pulled 6 times with neither and everything is AOK for now, but I am running a stock truck. Good Luck

I have sleeves but no centerlink, and don't plan on one either. the theory of max tire pressure isn't always true. I lowered mine from 60 down to 47 2 weeks ago and went from 12th place to 3rd place. also we can only have weight in the bed and me and the other dmax's in my class have found that if we put the weight by the tailgate and not the headboard we actually pull better. don't ask me why but it works I have 2 full pulls in a row to prove it and before I never touched the 300ft mark.

Pulling 001

0) read the rules beforehand so you don't look like an idiot.
0a) watch some other pulling classes so you learn how the flagmen run things.
1) put on the mud terrains.
2) lower the torsion bars as low as you can. You don't need much turning radius.
3) strap the centerlink (tie rod sleeves highly recommended)
3a) beg or borrow or make a set of spring clamps
3b) beg or borrow or make a set of rear suspension blocks to reduce the travel to the min allowed
4) get the hitch as high as the rules will allow.
5) run as much ballast as you can, and put it as far forward as allowed.
6) 3rd gear low range
6a) pay 100% attention to everything the flagmen tell you
7) walk the sled out, then roll your foot to the floor
8) if it starts to head-shake, let out of it immediately
9) if it starts to hop, let out if it immediately

edited to add Adam's pointer, although spring clamps and blocks might belong in Pulling 002.

On a tight track I run 60 psi in the rears, on a loose track I run 50 in the rears. Like said, half that psi in the front as a rule of thumb. I have run as low as 20 in the front also, with 50 in the rears.

Blocking the rear suspension helps alot also, just make sure that you meet the minimum travel rules.

hey guys thanks for all the info I will be getting some tierod sleeves and just have to play with the tire pressure when I get there. I will post the results after the pull. thanks again.