How exactly does the actuator on the side of the turbo work. I am talking about the vaccum solenoid looking thing. Is this what bypasses the turbo to allow for boost and waste? IF so what would happen if I just plugged the vac line going to it? Would this keep the actuator full open and allow more boost? Ok it was three questions:)

It Will Allow More Boost But There Will Be No Control Of The Max Boost. Not A Wise Thing Especially If You Have A Chip Of Some Sort

NO chip just stock except a K&N and straightpiped. HOw much boost will a stock turbo push. DO you think it will be too much for the a/f mixture? What kind of problems could I be looking at here?

like said before....... not a good idea.

now from what ive read 30-32psi (most), maybe 34, but thats pushing it. is a good place to be WITH a tuner. some have gone/go way over that. but at those levels it just puts added stress & lower life of the turbo & possibly the motor.

any/all turbos have there limits. to where no matter how much boost u have the turbo will still only flow so much air so ur basically out of its 'sweet spot' or 'efficienty'. over its limits for each turbo will just hurt the life of the turbo & also just add excessive heat to the air charge.which is not good either.

remember..... its not always boost psi, its how well/much it flows air. take a stock & upgraded turbo- u will/can make more power with less boost on aftermarket turbo then a maxing out psi a stock snail.

if ur looking for a cost effective mod. do it safely like where u wanted to do something on the wastegate.

first thing...... ***this is at ur own risk. im newer to the diesel tuning. BUT on the car side of it. this can be done with a stock tune safely. this is only a idea. seaching & hopefully wise ones on here can go further into it then i can. & at the same time hope i dont make a a$$ of myself***

here is a example......

----get a 'pill' or something to that nature. which can go 2 ways. to restrict vaccum or make slight vaccum leak. to slow the actuator process not kill it

by that, take a small piece of copper or hard plastic that can fit in the vaccum hose. & put a small hole in it. small-- is very small. u can always go bigger. BUT little at a time. this may not add tons of boost but will help it spool quicker & take the wastegate more time to open. or a reducer ,smaller size piece that with restict the flow of vaccum to slow the process.

really the best thing is to just read & decide what tuner is best for u now & the furture of ur modding if it continues.

also a boost gauge would be a REALLY good idea if u at anytime are going to mess with boost levels or wastegate workings with out ecm control!!

The accuator has a spring and a diaphram inside. Under normal driving conditions the spring is holding the wastegate shut. With the wastegate shut there is no exhaust energy being bypassed. In turn the turbo will spool as fast as the amount of fuel allows it to. Now you add a chip or programmer and you have plenty of fuel to spool the turbo much faster than it was designed to, here's where the diaphram comes into play. The accuator is hooked up to a boost line on the out side of the turbo. When enough boost pressure is uptained, the psi pushing on the diaphram will overcome the spring, this then will open the wastegate and some of the exhaust energy will be bypassed and inturn the turbo will stop gaining speed. If you use "juice grips aka vice grips" on the hose the accuator thinks there is no boost being made and the turbo will continue to accelerate until it self destroys.

If you want more boost, i've heard good things about the inline boost valves. It's not worth the few bucks saved by trying to make your own bleed valve.

If you want more boost, i've heard good things about the inline boost valves. It's not worth the few bucks saved by trying to make your own bleed valve.

crap, i didnt even think of the boost valves!!! do that its not alot of money at all!

was doing a little experimentaion. plugged off vac tube to waste gate diaphram. i have a boost guage so i could monitor . i have no tuner but i could not get boost above 25- 26 psi trying lots of different methods. then while taking about a 100 mile drive going around 80 mph boost would fluctuate between 10 - 15 psi all at about 2400 rpm ,all flat ground here south louisianna.

was doing a little experimentaion. plugged off vac tube to waste gate diaphram. i have a boost guage so i could monitor . i have no tuner but i could not get boost above 25- 26 psi trying lots of different methods. then while taking about a 100 mile drive going around 80 mph boost would fluctuate between 10 - 15 psi all at about 2400 rpm ,all flat ground here south louisianna.


25-26psi should yield no problems. i wouldnt be happy with my boost fluctuating between 10-15 psi on flat ground, my truck is about 4psi at any speed on flat ground.

as stated the "juicegrips" will cause a blown turbo, more than one, just ask got juice. ive blown one turbo using the PPE Boost valve and my PPE HOT doing a long burn out. safest way for more boost is with PPE's boost valve ($40) or John Kennedys ($100.00) or you can get the banks big head adjustable wastegate (200.00). playing with the wastegate if you have tuning is a :badidea: unless you have 200.00 for a used stock turbo and about 18 hours for the install.

PPE Boost Valve on my truck.









Pic in "My Garage":

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juice were are you at!!!

It's not a vacuum tube going to the actuator. It's a pressure tube.

"It's not a vacuum tube going to the actuator. It's a pressure tube."

Sorry i knew that just habit of calling small black tubes vacum