My current company pickup is a '93 Ford F250, x-cab, longbed, 4x4.It's got all the bells and whistles, including Hypermax turbo.


I am shopping new to me (used) company pickups. The man that will decide loves Dodges. Me I am not so sure. Obviously your gonna say I will love the enge, but what about the Quad cabs, do they hold up, or are they a weather stripping, rattleing, ear freezing, nightmare?


Is the turning radius on the Quad long bed as bad as the Ford?


I have a tough time going away from Ford, I had an '89 F250 got stuck once, got a '97 Chev. K2500 got stuck 6 times first year, Went back to the '93 and never been stuck. Chev, doesn't work for me, I figured the Dodge solid axle should be as good as the Ford in the snow.


Anybody else made the jump?? Thoughts? There is a '99 quad cab, loaded, 24 valve 52K miles, long bed, I think I can get for $19K. That is an okay price, but what do I get for that price?

I made the jump from a Chevy to a Dodge - My ONLY complaint is the size of the rear seat in the quad cab. I've got 95,000 miles on it and the only problem I've encountered that wasnt due to my own BOMBing was a leaky rear pinion seal. I've had a nagging problem with the brake switch wires coming loose on the pedal switch also. I can tell you that the stock clutch wont last long at 400rwhp. Other than that, its been a great truck - I'd buy another in a heartbeat.


I've been and still consider myself a Chevy fan... But thats turning around... Had it been an automatic equipped truck, this post would likely not been as positive...

I want the auto.


I know there are lots of problems, but are the rebuilds holding up well?


Thanks for the reply!

My current company pickup is a '93 Ford F250, x-cab, longbed, 4x4.It's got all the bells and whistles, including Hypermax turbo.


I am shopping new to me (used) company pickups. The man that will decide loves Dodges. Me I am not so sure. Obviously your gonna say I will love the enge, but what about the Quad cabs, do they hold up, or are they a weather stripping, rattleing, ear freezing, nightmare?


Is the turning radius on the Quad long bed as bad as the Ford?


I have a tough time going away from Ford, I had an '89 F250 got stuck once, got a '97 Chev. K2500 got stuck 6 times first year, Went back to the '93 and never been stuck. Chev, doesn't work for me, I figured the Dodge solid axle should be as good as the Ford in the snow.


Anybody else made the jump?? Thoughts? There is a '99 quad cab, loaded, 24 valve 52K miles, long bed, I think I can get for $19K. That is an okay price, but what do I get for that price?




Why were you getting stuck? Bottoming out? This past winter I had a 86 Fullsize Blazer... solid axle. I was continually getting stuck in the piles. The snow was nasty last year. The solid axle pumkin kept getting high centered in the snow piles i was slamming.Edited by: hoot

A couple of problems I had with the chev.


It feels light, when you drive it, I can hop in those Fords, lock in 4x4 and run down the interstate at 70 on snow, and Ice. The chev. did not feel as stable, scared me. I think because the engine was snappy, and the truck was lighter it would break traction easier.


As far as getting stuck, I had countless problems getting the front hubs to engage, sometimes I would run down the road a mile or so before they both caught.


The front end with the IFS felt like a ramp, I would hit a drift, feel the front end come up and I knew I was done. Get out and shovel. It's like there is too much surface area and the front tires would hang. Look at it, it looks like the bottom of my kids sled under there.


The harder I hit the pile, the more stuck I got. I should have just shoveled the whole thing to start with. My wife had a Bronco II at the time, it did better than the K2500.


I am not knocking GM, but in my situation, with the 43 miles I drive 1 way everyday, the GM just didn't work for me.


Does the pickup still have a stagger front to back like your Blazer does, that is one problem. The front end sits wider, so the rear end does not run in the same tracks. The short wheelbase of the Blazer always killed me, too squirmy.


I want a big heavy truck with a long wheel base.


This will be the first winter with the Grand Cherokee, that will be interesting.

I had a guy buy my used 93 chevy diesel. He was a plasterer and had plow truck for the winter. Back the (95) he said he liked the GM's better for plowing. He had too much trouble with the Fords.

The axle engagement is an easy fix. I replaced my unit with a newer solenoid style.

I agree with you though on having a bigger heavier truck for that kind of work. The Ford Superduty is a nice stout setup with the straight axle although there are those that would argue the newer HD GM's aren't too shabby in that department. Big improvement over the C/K's.

That Blazer I had was a joke when it came to ramming snow. If the plow wasn't straight on, it's easy to hit and go sideways. Snow wins.... truck loses.

No squeaks or rattles (other than under the hood) here! I did have to tighten the driver's rear shock because it was banging around. The interior clips have fabric similar to the fabric side of velcro that really seems to eliminate platic to plastic squeaks.


The quad cab turns short enough to make parking in small lots easy. I've never driven a Ford, so can't help there.


The Cummins engine is heavy, so you definitely need clearance to keep up out of the deep snow. Currently I'm running 315s so we'll see how they do this winter. Previous Dodge CTDs have done very well for a full size pickup. Just remember it IS a full size rig, not a jeep CJ when off road. When on road in the winter http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Thanks guys, I drove it today. I think I will give it a shot if the numbers work out.

I want the auto.


I know there are lots of problems, but are the rebuilds holding up well?


Thanks for the reply!





Good question - Everyone that I know that has a tranny built by Bill Kondalay of DTT loves it and is getting good life out of them. I've had the oppurtunity to drive a couple of trucks that were approaching 500rwhp with DTT trannies and all I can say is it was breathtaking... Their not cheap though.. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif

I know there are lots of problems, but are the rebuilds holding up well?

My DTT rebuild is holding 460horse with no problems after 10 months and 20k. The stock auto is pretty good as long as you dont add any power, pull regular maintenence, and dont tow more than its rated for.

A good friend of mine bought a 94 F250 5spd with the turbo 7.3IDI. He bought it with 177k on it and has put another 15k HARD miles on it logging this summer. It sure is holding up well, just has acouple rattles. Makes me wish I had a 5spd because it sure is fun to drive even with only 195 horspower. Edited by: Overvalved

I know there are lots of problems, but are the rebuilds holding up well?




The stock auto is pretty good as long as you dont add any power, pull regular maintenence, and dont tow more than its rated for.



Where is the fun in that? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

Where is the fun in that? http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

The fun is going WOT for the first time with an EZ and stock tranny hopping she'll hold http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wacko.gif. Luckily mine did for 10k. Edited by: Overvalved

So I still have some questions.


What's up with the tranny cooler, it looks like they plumb coolant to the tranny instead of the fluid to a remote cooler. They wouldn't do something that silly would they? Can you add a external cooler?


Seems to wander a little, Is that fixable?


The get up and go was less than impressive, my 7.3 IDI will spank that thing. I think my 6.2 Suburban would give it a good run. I understand it is stock, but is that normal?? With all the hype I was expecting so much more. Not sure what the rear end ratio was, but I guess it was mid 3's maybe?


The front end, is there no unlockable hubs? What are the wires going to the front axle?


Seemed there was a lot of brake drag on the front end, both sides felt the same, so I guess this is normal?


The truck seemed solid over some pretty rough roads, no rattles. The turning radius is incredible compared to the Ford. You sit up in the cab nice, I like the big flat seat. Visibilty was great, don't like the mirrors. Nice big fuel tank. Felt stable and well balanced.


There were some flaws in the paint, not the best quality at the assembly plant.


Carfax came back clean, and they are giving me excellent trade in. I don't think I can pass it up, most likely tomorrow I will be driving a Dodge.


Thanks Guys.

I dont know what you mean about the tranny cooler? Mine has a cooler mounted infront of the radiator and a heat exchanger on the passenger side of the block.

The wander is probably from a wearing track bar. I have 56k on my truck and it is still pretty tight. The balljoint that connects it to the frame wears out and the whole unit needs to be replaced.


99's with autos were 215 horse 460 TQ and probably has 3:54 gears. What size tires are on it? Not the best for an accelleration contest and I think the max trailer weight is only a little over 9000lbs.

There are no selectable hubs, It has a Center Axle Disconnect CAD. The passengers side axle is a 2 piece unit with a sleve that slides to connect them when the Tcase is shifted into 4x4. Those wires and hoses control the acutator and sleeve. It sounds weak but I've never had any problems with the system and it is easily swapped to a manual setup if necessary.

99's had rear drums which really arent that good, they carry a very small percentage of the load compared to the front discs.

If you do buy it be sure and have the fuel pressure checked because the fuel transfer pumps tend to go out often on 24valves and the early ones even more so. Also it would be good to look into getting the Dowel Pin tabbed so it stays in its place and doesnt end up in the timing gears.

HTH
Zach
Edited by: Overvalved

The get up and go was less than impressive, my 7.3 IDI will spank that thing. I think my 6.2 Suburban would give it a good run. I understand it is stock, but is that normal?? With all the hype I was expecting so much more. Not sure what the rear end ratio was, but I guess it was mid 3's maybe?


We can fix that pretty quick with a new fuel plate, 370 injectors, and an PDR HX-40 http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

We can fix that pretty quick with a new fuel plate, 370 injectors, and an PDR HX-40 http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Or a Drag Comp, some mach 3's and a PDR HX-40http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

We can fix that pretty quick with a new fuel plate, 370 injectors, and an PDR HX-40 http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif




Or a Drag Comp, some mach 3's and a PDR HX-40http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif





Oooops... I thought he said '96... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

Dowel pin tabbed? how big of a job is that?


I have warranty till like next march on the engine, I knew about the fuel pressure, but is there something to complain about to get it done under warranty. I knew about the fuel pressure.


Tire size is stock, it has the OEM tires, street tread.

Dowel pin tabbed? how big of a job is that?




It isnt that big of a job, but if you've never done it or seen it done before it can be intimdating. I dont know where you are located but there are many KDPJigs and people and shops who have experience doing this.

Well I pick it up tomorrow morning. If I hate it, I am going to blame you guys.


Is there any cheap mods I can start with? Gauges will come soon, but Can I add a Tranny cooler? if the current cooler lines are that big, with a normal cooler hurt instead of help? Tranny temp gauge, pyro, and boost?


Is there any home made Idle controllers out there? I do a lot if idleing and jumpstarting with the truck, I made one for my 7.3, and it really helps.


I hear very little turbo whistle, are they that quiet?

Well I pick it up tomorrow morning. If I hate it, I am going to blame you guys.


Is there any cheap mods I can start with? Gauges will come soon, but Can I add a Tranny cooler? if the current cooler lines are that big, with a normal cooler hurt instead of help? Tranny temp gauge, pyro, and boost?


Is there any home made Idle controllers out there? I do a lot if idleing and jumpstarting with the truck, I made one for my 7.3, and it really helps.


I hear very little turbo whistle, are they that quiet?








You wont regret it! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif 'cept maybe for that automatic.....


Cheap HP.... Hmm... Guages first and foremost. I've got Westach's but Autometers seem to be popular as are SPA's. Geno's garage has about the best prices I've found. Find them at http://www.genosgarage.com/ . Next I would upgrade the Exhaust and I couldnt think of anyone better than the infamous Rip Rook for exhaust - I've got the 5" pipes, but he's got an awesome 4" system for a good price! Find him and his prices at http://www.protintnw.com/sa-main.htm . Next upgrade would be some sort of chip - you can go mild to wild here. For mild, I'd pick either a VanAaken CPC or an Power Edge EZ. That will put you close to your trannies limits. If you planning on doing the transmission, then by all means, go with an Edge Drag Comp, very adjustable, and your stock transmission will take the abuse as long as you dont hook up the wire to the injector pump. Hook the wire up after you get the tranny done. Rip Rook also carries these products for great prices. Next up would be a set of injectors. I've had Bully Dogs and Diesel Dynamics injectors and I prefer the DD's. Less smoke and EGT's. DD3's with an Edge Comp will easily put you over 400RWHP (Closer to 450). Many people are touting Don M's EDM injectors for the ISB. His Mach 2's increase hp by about 110. I've got no expirience with them but everyone tells me they're fantastic. With all that fuel, you'll be needing a turbo replacement to blow a little more pressure into the motor. With an automatic, I'd go with either a Piers Diesel Resaerch PDR HX-35 or PDR HX-40. The 40 will spool a little slower but will give you better top end boost (40 psi). The 35 will spool quicker, but produces less boost (max 36psi). Anything over 40 psi will darn near require o-ringing the head. For 500+ rwhp Super or Megamental injectors and HX-40 are a must. Rip also carries injectors, turbo's, and exchange trannies from DTT.

and I almost forgot.... Catch all of us Dodge guys (And one GMC driver) at http://www.nwbombers.com http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Is there any home made Idle controllers out there? I do a lot if idleing and jumpstarting with the truck, I made one for my 7.3, and it really helps.





harold,aka cubby, a fellow nwbomber/tdr member makes these fast idle devices [along w/ other neat goodies] for our trucks. really inexpensive. his email is rvhvnfn@juno.com

Yeah what Russ and Muddy said! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


You should be able to add a tranny cooler. Call DTT http://www.dieseltrans.com they should answer your questions. Edited by: Overvalved

Regarding turbo whistle... Get a Scotty II or AFE Megacannon intake and remove the silencer ring in the nose of the turbo.... You'll get so much noise it'll be annoying.. Just the 4" exhaust will let quite a bit of whistle out.

and when you really wanna go hog wild....


Twins....


http://www.piersdiesel.com/PhotoAlbums/DynoMania03/images/dm0315.jpg

What they said.


The above might seem like a plug for Rip at SourceAutomotive, but it's the truth. Good advice on how to get the best price along with quality/caring service.


Don't forget about some fuel relief. The stock fuel lines are barely adequate for stock hp levels. Oversize (drilled out) banjo bolts help a little, especially if you're going to stay stock. If you are thinking of going to 320+hp, go straight to atleast -6AN or -8AN fuel line and fittings. This will provide larger inside diameter for fuel flow with decreased back pressure on the pump, and the rubber hose will flex with the hydraulic hammer of the VP to protect the lift pump relief valve.

we have a 98 Freightliner (roll back) with a 5.9. It has a Holset Hx35 on it. of course since im a little silly, i measured some key points on this turbo and believe it could be made to fit my old Chevy.


Who has the best price on this turbo that you guys know of?

pat9565


Your Chevy already plumbed for a single turbo? IMHO the HX35 is gonna need a larger than stock (12cm) exhaust housing as a single and way too slow to spool as a dual setup. HX35 is good for roughly 600cfm, so it'll be done below 20psi boost as a single.

$650 from Piers Diesel Research http://www.piersdiesel.com


Below 20 as a single? My HX-35 will exceed 30psi - but I'm fairly sure that a 6.2 or 6.5 wont stand that kinda pressure. I wouldnt go above 18psi and then you'll need some sort of charge air cooler.


http://thedieselpage.com/ has some interesting articles on turning up the pressure on 6.5's


Edited by: Big Russ

Big Russ, been there done that (about turning up the pressure). I have done a lot to this eng, check out my sig. I have even fitted a large Garrett turbo. The problem is its too big, i cant push it with the 6.5-not enough exhaust across the turbine. The factory boost level was 7psi, thats with a small IHI (isuzu) turbo called the GM-4. mods to that turbo and wastegate will provide 12-15psi, but the exhaust restriction from the small turbine housing negates any performance gain after 10psi.


I get up to 16psi from the Garrett with very good performance the free flowing turbine housing provided that, but learning this left me wondering if more boost along with a free flowing turbine housing will provide more power.........after all, thats what we all seekhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


650 is the best price for the HX35 i have heard of yet, i have found one place getting 700. i will have to check them out.


Thanks for the replies, most of the turbo dealers i called wind up asking me "what vehicle is this for"? and when i reply that it is going on a 95 Chevy 6.5, all they can say is "all we offer for that is an exhaust sys".


I may never perform like the "strokes", the "cummins", or the "D-MAX", but it is fun tryinghttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Hi Russ!


I calc'd the numbers on the HX35 earlier, and if I remember correctly, he'll be well below 1bar (net 14.8psi) when the HX-35 at 600cfm runs out of air for the 6.5L (396 cu.in) engine.


Ol Blue Edited by: Ol Blue

less than 15psi? hmm, what does the 5.9 cummins run stock?


wastegated right? how about stock, with the wastegate adjusted to produce more boost? I was under the impression the HX35 would easily produce 20+ psi.


I have only driven a couple of cummins trucks, one is our roll back, the other is a dually ('00 model i think). the roll back has well over 300K on it, and still runs strong, the dually i believe is stock. The rpm range of the cummins (about 2700 max) leads me to believe that the HX35 would perform very well on my 6.5 having a shift point of 3500.


my big Garrett has an a/r ratio of 1.00 and i am getting 16psi out of it, (non-wastegated) i dont know what the cfm rating is on it though.


any more opinions on the perf of the HX35?


Pat

20psi wastegated is stock on the Cummins 5.9L after 1998.5.


Sure they can be to 35psi, but the 5.9 is physically a smaller engine. Your 6.5L needs more than the 5.9L. To push more air for the Cummins, it is becoming very typical to install a larger compressor wheel.


If you can borrow an HX35, give it a try. Where are you? I'd loan you one if your close. Also try an HX40 (800CFM) assuming you want to stay with Holset.


That Garret with an A/R of 1 musta had one heck of a small outlet?Edited by: Ol Blue

Ol Blue, i'm near Nashville.


yes the compressor outlet was smaller than my factory unit, i had to get a "neck-down" boot to connect to my I/C tube. The exhaust outlet has a 6 bolt flange, and takes a 3inch pipe.


Where is Milosh? Are you selling HX35?Edited by: pat9565

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


I've not got much turbo knowledge, but my HX-35 will make 32psi pretty easily...

Where is Milosh? Are you selling HX35?


Milosh is my last name. I'm located in Moscow..........Idaho that is http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


I'm up and down on selling the HX35. I've got about 4 months of R&D and some plumbing (done by a very good friend) into using it as I head for the elusive 500hp mark with only DD2 injectors. I know, it probably really can't be done, but it's fun trying. Anyway, it's not likely that I'll sell it in the immediate future.....for now.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


I've not got much turbo knowledge, but my HX-35 will make 32psi pretty easily...





Russ, does your PDR HX35 have a 14cm housing? What do you think of the lag vs. factory 12cm?

Nope.... stuck with the factory 12cm housing... I'm not sure I'd want the 14cm housing, I'm not having any problems with the top end. Matter of fact since I installed the DD3's and removed the BD2's my EGT's have improved along with throttle response and smoke emissions... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

So your lag is non-existent?!? :burnout:


I've heard that DD's injectors tend to atomize better. Going from 2s to stage onehundredeleven with better EGTs is great!

So your lag is non-existent?!? :burnout:


I've heard that DD's injectors tend to atomize better. Going from 2s to stage onehundredeleven with better EGTs is great!








No no... I've got lag - boost is up to 25psi at 1700 and gaining at a rapid rate. Below 1700rpm, boost slowly builds (12psi @1200 or so). I'm at a loss of words to explain the lower EGT's and smoke - except for better atomization as you mentioned. The seat-o-pants meter definetly registers more horspower! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

1200rpm...woooo hooooo! That's kinda like spooling yesterday. Until I reworked the PDR40, I just barely made 10psi at 1850rpm! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif but then, hold on after that! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


The Ripster had some insight on cleaning up the intercooler because of the puke bottle, and the HO EGTs went down somewhat......


Before the PDR40, I played with a 14cm housing on stock HX35. Even after porting (to gasket), and a little polishing, and a lot of tweaking, the 14 was still very slow and not much temp relief compared to the 12 IMHO.


Sounds like you've got the right combo working on yours!

I'm really happy with it so far. I cant find any faults except that I could use another 100 hp.... and another... and another....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif

I could use another 100 hp.... and another... and another....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gifPlease Lord, let there never be a cure found! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


Big Russ, I'm likely gonna stay closer to home now (NWBombers). Too many sites takes up too much time away from........Bombing!


See Ya there.Edited by: Ol Blue

Ol Blue, what's "bombing"?

Ol Blue, what's "bombing"?


A term commonly found on Dodge websites - it means to modify your motor for more performance.


Better Of Modified Baby!

I remember Traveller from Diesel Thunder 2003http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


Nice Rig that Ford of his!