Anybody got a sound clip of a straightpiped 6.5? Thanks

No sound clip. Even if I did, it wouldn't do it justice. But I can give you a good description of what a JK exhaust sounds like.


Nice throaty growl that sounds like an old non-turbo Mack Truck untill the turbo starts making boost.


As boost comes up, the turbo makes itself known till you get above around 6-7 pounds boost. I suspect the turbo whistle drops off to our hearing because it gets into the ultrasonic range. The dog up the street howls at my as I go by.


Above 2300 RPM or so, it sounds exactly like a 454 gasser with flowmasters. Quite a symphony. I love riding around with the rear passenger side window down so I can hear the exhaust echoing off buildings and fences.


Tim


Edited by: Cowracer

I must have acclimated to the straight pipe sound, it does not seem nearly as loud as it did at first.


I will agree with the sounds above except I have a hollow reverb note that reminds me of a digeredo.

4" straight pipe on mine, comes out in front of the wheel.


No way to send you a file.

Hi everyone. this is my first post to this website. I have a 2000 Chevy 3500 crew cab with an 8' bed, single rear wheels, 4x4. It has 120,000+ miles which are all towing miles (6-7,000 lb empty) steel/aluminum horse trailer. I recently purchased a steel 4-horse head-to-head which is 25' on the floor and about 10-11,000 lb empty. The truck did OK at first, but now on a grade, lots of black smoke comes from the exhaust - have not hauled 4 horses yet, but the truck does this with only 2 on. Also, am beginning to have to add coolant regularly. All is stock on the 6.5L engine, but it has been suggested that I buy a Banks kit and that will provide better air flow, lower exhaust temp and markedly improved performance. Any thoughts? Some people think that I'm asking too much of the truck. Also, with the changed exhaust to straight pipes anybody know whether the truck will pass NJ emissions?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif

Chef..,


The heavy exhaust usually is a result of lack of boost. The 6.5 uses vacuum to close the wastegate and any leaks or plugged lines will defeat the system. With the engine running unplug the vacuum line leading to the turbo and check for vacuum. It should pull more than 15"Hg at idle.


The DOE does tests on fuels and exhaust emissions every year. I've noticed that the trucks they test with soot traps have little appreciable difference in emissions from the ones that don't.


If you want to pay top dollar for your system, go banks. Edited by: quantum mechanic

Hi, Diesel Addict - Many thanks for your reply. I surely don't want to pay top dollar for anything, but was hoping that a Banks kit would do the job. I have also had recommended a Mac air intake and some exhaust parts and computer swap by B D Power. Any experience with them? It's an awfully pricey job............http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif

Chef,,,,,


If you want to make a few changes and keep costs down, do a computer swap, doesn't HAVE to be BD. They're all done by the same people, so shop around for best price. Also do the turbo downpipe. Again, shop around for best price. A 3" manderal bent pipe is exactly that, a piece of pipe. It shouldn't cost $150. Those are the expensive mods. As for exhaust, if you would like to cut corners and save money, pull out the cat and muffler (if local emissions testing will permit) and have your local muffler shop put in some 3" pipe where the cat and muff were. It will run a little cooler, and it will sound a lot better. If you do just the exhaust, will it snap your neck back when you tromp on it? No, however in conjuction with a computer swap you WILL feel a difference.


p.s. Welcome to "The Place"http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Hi Rubberfish - thanks for this info on the exhaust. I have found someone here in NJ who does custom exhaust who is going to replace the pipe from the engine back with 4" pipe. Unfortunately, we have to retain the cat here, but he is going to run two pipes out to the end with stainless caps on the end to make them look better. He says that if I want to make modifications to this truck, should make them one at a time (because of the mileage) and see what happens. As long as the truck tolerates the changes, then we can go a step further. So we'll start with the exhaust, then move to the air intake and finally the computer if that's necessary after the other two. Since I'm a woman (and a 5'4" blond to boot) the guys don't always listen to me when it comes to this truck, so I thank you for giving me this advice!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

Chef....,


120,000 mi. is hardly broken in.


I changed my exhausts at over 180,000 and 200,000 miles.


When you change your exhaust, the downpipe should be a part of the change. If you use the same soot trap, remove the restrictive internal screening. If you replace it, go 4" to keep the new system the same size through out.


Have you been able to look at the vacuum/wastegate system to determine operability?


It's a common problem on the 6.5 and when you solve it the black smoke will go away and your torque will increase.


Have you been able to find where your coolant is leaking from? The cooling system needs to be able to build pressure to work right. Any leaks and it will run hot (200+ deg). It could be as simple as a bad radiator cap or as bad as the head gasket. look at it after you turn it off and it should hiss and gurgle where the leak is.


I think it's great you own a 6.5


Edited by: quantum mechanic

Hi Diesel Addict - haven't yet been able to detect where the coolant leak is from - guages all stay normal despite the use of coolant. huh? Perhaps the guages are broken. Don't know. The local gas station says they can do a test of the coolant when the truck is running and it will tell whether there is CO2 in the coolant. That will tell whether the head gasket is bad. They say if the head gasket is bad, then if I opt to replace that, then the top of the engine will be "new" and the bottom will be 120,000 miles old. (i.e., they're not anxious to do the job). I was thinking that that 2-minute test would be a good place to start. I can check out the radiator cap later today. Thanks a LOT for the information on the down-pipe on the engine: and thanks even MORE for telling me when you swapped out your exhaust(s). I think that it can't do anything but help. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

*The difference between the stock exhaust and a straight pipe is noticeable. It sounds like a hotrod diesel and drives like one too.


I did all my modifications before I did the exhaust, so it was night and day difference. The new pipe allowed me to get more out of the previous mods (porting/polishing the intake/ turbo, FSD relocation/extention harness/cooler, removal of restrictive air intake parts, boostjacker, afe filter, timing 7.8 deg adv.).


At 120,000 putting fresh headgaskets shouldn't kill the bottom end, but rebuilding/planing the deck of the heads will. 300,000 is the expected life of the block.


so, have you checked for presence of vacuum?
Edited by: quantum mechanic

Hi - sorry for calling you the wrong name....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif


I can't check for vacuum because the truck isn't home right now - I'm scheduled to have the exhaust done tomorrow....can't WAIT after reading your post........http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

Chef..,


*another post about boost http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10168&PN=1


boost jacker


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6834&PN=4


and exhaust


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9064&PN=3


and factory restrictions


*http://www.dieselplace.comforum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7077&PN=5 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7077&PN=5)
Edited by: quantum mechanic

Hi, Quantum Mechanic!!! Just thought you'd like to know that we did the litmus test on the coolant in my 6.5 and it was NEGATIVE http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif . So I called my custom exhaust house and said go ahead. We're just back from the shop and what a DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif They ran 4" pipe straight from the engine to the cat (we have to retain that in NJ) out the other side to a "Y" which now has pipes which terminate in a 6" exhaust on either side of the truck with SS covers. Looks nasty and sounds better. :-))))))


Not only does the truck sound awsome, but it seems to run a whole lot smoother and more even. And the power difference is really noticeable - haven't towed, yet, but certainly will next week - will let you know. Have a new air filter coming from KN (NK?) that is gauze and with the oil change and a new fuel filter, we'll see what this truck is capable of. Thank you for all of your help. You have been very kind and helpful to me!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif

Chef..,

I'm still interested in your exhaust smoke.
With the engine on, pull the vacuum line off the turbo
and check it with your finger to see if it is sucking vacuum of not (Very important to making turboboost).
Next, follow the line to the waste gate solenoid and unplug the other line that comes from the vacuum pump and see if you have a much stronger vacuum( you should).
This system is prone to leaks in the lines, vacuum pump failing, and the solenoid sticking and causing intermittent powerloss and excessive smoke.Edited by: quantum mechanic