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Old 10-29-2012, 11:34 PM   #41 (permalink)
raamaudio
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Morgan Utah
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I do not know it all of course, just one hell of a lot and love to help my fellow enthusiasts make their rides a better place to be

I still learn new things all the time, best to keep an open mind even at 60 years old!

Rick
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2012 LTZ dually, custom leather, massive deadening and audio. 2012 43' Voltage 3905 with upgraded audio. 95 M3 race car with built LS1.

FOR SALE: v8 4runner, 18' aluminum open deck trailer, 53 Studebaker body Pro Tour one of a kind Studevette PROJECT car (going to live on the road soon
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:53 PM   #42 (permalink)
Snorider
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wow, there is so much great info in this, more than I can take it at the moment. lol

but when I get healed up, I now want to take on doing this to my 07 and 93 pickups. can't wait to see and read more.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:43 PM   #43 (permalink)
raamaudio
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Sorry you are in the healing up mode, hopefully it was not to bad buddy, get well soon.

I have done most every mod to a vehicle I can imagine and always find deadening them to be the best thing I could ever do in so many ways.

Rick
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2012 LTZ dually, custom leather, massive deadening and audio. 2012 43' Voltage 3905 with upgraded audio. 95 M3 race car with built LS1.

FOR SALE: v8 4runner, 18' aluminum open deck trailer, 53 Studebaker body Pro Tour one of a kind Studevette PROJECT car (going to live on the road soon
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:44 AM   #44 (permalink)
raamaudio
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Update:
Slow progress as building a race car, running a busy business and working with a management team to take over so I can at least semi retire, picking out just the right trailer, etc.......but progress is moving along far faster now.

I have decided to go all out and pulled the dash, headliner, etc..........

Since I plan to keep this truck a very long time I am deadening it to the highest level I can withing reasonable time allowances.

-----------------

Headliner, easy to drop since all the pillar trim was already out, to a point, there are wires hot glued all over it so we ripped them all off and then proceeded to remove the headliner. It seems they install them before the front or rear windshield is installed, first vehicle I could not get it out one of the doors and I have pulled quite a few.

You can get beneficial results using around 50% coverage with your choice of a quality real sound deadening mat in the middle of the front and rear seat areas, the sides, middle support and for and aft front support do not need covered. Then cover it all with the foam as that takes care of the rest of the areas and thermal issues. I sealed every hole in the support structure with just the foam to reduce road noise further and block more heat transfer.

On my truck I went all out, full mat coverage on the front two and big rear sections then 50% more on the front ones and close to 100% on the rear area then all the foam was installed. Tap on the roof and it is rock solid now There will be some added thermal benefits as well.

---------------

Dash,
Whew! Never saw one with so many parts, it takes awhile to do this!

I am lining the outside of all ducting with mat and foam, lining all parts that can and will resonate, rattle, shake, etc......as well with mat and foam or just foam depending on the specifics of the parts.

The inner structural parts will have the same treatment as required as well as using tie wraps, silicone sealer, whatever is best.

I will have a layer for foam between all parts that screw together as well.

Underside of all trim panels are getting mat and foam as needed.

1.5 or 2.5" acoustical foam I get from Parts Express, sections added all over inside the dash, allowing proper air flow of course, this helps to reduce ambient and engine noise even further.

-----------------

Alarm and audio going in at the same time.

Alarm, high end alarm with cell phone access, buried where it would be nearly impossible to find, integrated deeply into the stock harnesses, data line to stock sensors so far fewer wires to run. I will have GPS tracking from anywhere there is cell phone service and it will have a few other tricks I just cannot mention but wow unto those that think towing is a via theft method

---------------

Audio, Aftermarket DD NAV(far superior to stock in NAV and audio) 4 amps, high end sub, ultra high end digital processor, all inside the center console with no loss of storage space. (2 amps in console, two under the front seats)

10" high excursion, superb sound quality sub.

Dual 6.5 midbass drivers tuned to enhance the sub output, one per door, they will sound as if in the front doors, not two in the rears, with proper tuning. The amps have a circuit that dramatically increases the output and low frequency information with no additional current draw and no added stress to the speakers.

4" and 1" drivers in the kick panels, passenger side needs a bit of surgery but will work out. Bi amped, all speakers get their one amp channel as I much prefer. Very high end speakers of course!

------------

Seats

New two tone, premium leather, perforated, contrast stitching, Katskinz are here and beautiful. The leather is far softer than stock to increase long drive comfort. I will remove a bit of foam from the rear middle of the seat bottoms to relieve pressure on the tailbone, something I have done to many vehicles for decades, all should come that way.

------------

I have had the truck since August, still only 700 miles on it and likely to see very few until spring if any at all.

------------

Final note, it was keyed on the 30th, I have feelers out, reward, etc..even though fully covered I plan to have a chat with the perp and his parents if applicable, LEO present..this is a small town, I will find out

Rick
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2012 LTZ dually, custom leather, massive deadening and audio. 2012 43' Voltage 3905 with upgraded audio. 95 M3 race car with built LS1.

FOR SALE: v8 4runner, 18' aluminum open deck trailer, 53 Studebaker body Pro Tour one of a kind Studevette PROJECT car (going to live on the road soon
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:12 PM   #45 (permalink)
halo13
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what dd nav unit will you be using? I am trying to find a good one to go with myself, but I do already have a alpine h-701 to offload all the processing. I am using boston acoustics z series for the 6.5 and 1 inch drivers and boston pro series for my extended cab doors just for surround sound use, not sound quality competition use. also I would love to see how you mount the 6.5s in the door, i know just bolting the speakers to the stock brackets is a no-no. I am using 2 x-tant amps to drive all 6 speakers and both subs, 6" in console and 12" under rear seat (my truck is extended cab with rear bench), my truck has been under construction for several years and I am looking to finally get it done now. I am glad to see someone else using a truck for sq, gives me a little bit of confidence.
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:02 PM   #46 (permalink)
raamaudio
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JVC NT500HDT as I wanted the smaller screen and volume knob, looks a bit more stealthy that way. The JVC line is the best for the buck by far in sound quality, ease of use, etc......I can buy them through a buddy for cost but bought mine on Amazon from a good seller, killer deal and value.

----------------

Try the rears at only a really low frequency, in true high end car audio surround sound does not work, can only be tuned for one seat, etc.....

----------------

I am using some after market speaker mounts but will stiffen them up a great deal with layers of mat, some fiberglass if needed, etc, they are on the way so have not seen them yet. I have all the tools in the world to make whatever I want but never enough time.

---------------

Stock sub is pure crap so do not bother, properly phased sub in the rear will sound up front, no need for the little junk sub from Blose.

---------------

X-tant made some great amps!

---------------

Put the tweeters in the A pillars, firing directly at each other, 2" above the top of the dash, wire out of phase with the mids, this will get the best image for the least effort and quite good(not possible to get it perfect in big trucks but very good is better than most ever have heard in their life, really

Stiffen up the mounting area in the doors when installing the mid bass drivers. I use aluminum channel behind the sheet metal held in place with self taping screws, really helps tame the resonance issues.

------------------------

Hope this helps
Rick
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2012 LTZ dually, custom leather, massive deadening and audio. 2012 43' Voltage 3905 with upgraded audio. 95 M3 race car with built LS1.

FOR SALE: v8 4runner, 18' aluminum open deck trailer, 53 Studebaker body Pro Tour one of a kind Studevette PROJECT car (going to live on the road soon
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:49 PM   #47 (permalink)
AZStang
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Rick,

Thanks for willingly sharing all your information. I've been following along, patiently waiting for the pictures and have a question about doors. You said in your first post that you "like to add the mass loading/stiffening material behind speakers, two layers, then add more to the outer door skin in the middle of the most flexible areas." Do you use anything to seal and insulate the opening into the door cavity directly behind the interior door panels?

Thanks,
Shawn
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:08 PM   #48 (permalink)
raamaudio
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Thanks

Since I cannot edit the original post I have added this elsewhere, at least thought I did but now either cannot find it or missed it when looking.

DOORS:
Once the outer skin is done we need to seal them up between the door panel and door metal that has the access holes we reached through to deaden the outer skin.

HUGE holes in the last gen truck, one big one in the newer trucks.

METAL sheeting over the holes is mandatory if you want the best results. I am using some galvanized steel from Home Depot, ducting section for furnace work....

Cut a section just bigger than the hole, bend as needed around anything in the way, screw it on with some sharp pointed metal framing screws, every 6" or so.

Add a full layer of mat, sealing up the edges, if a high powered audio install then you might need a second layer of mat, at least in the middle.

Seal the big holes this way, smaller holes with just mat is OK.'

Once all the holes are sealed up add add more mat around the speaker mounting area, on high powered installs I might add some aluminum channel inside the door, behind the speaker hole, to stiffen it even more.

Cover the whole area with the foam.

------------

Door panels: These are pretty flimsy thus resonate prone, I use mat and foam strategically on the back of them to stiffen and deaden them up, maybe 30-40% coverage, depends on the panels, system power, etc.....

On the 07.5 there are some factory ridges in the middle of the door I have to trim off to ensure it will fit back on up against the metal I added to seal the holes. I like to make sure it touches with a bit of pressure as this helps to add more stiffness to the door panel, making it less prone to resonate.

------------

I have not been able to work on my truck much, holiday rush is upon us, my son is away so doing double duty as well......I am taking plenty of pics, I will get some up soon

Have a great day!
Rick
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2012 LTZ dually, custom leather, massive deadening and audio. 2012 43' Voltage 3905 with upgraded audio. 95 M3 race car with built LS1.

FOR SALE: v8 4runner, 18' aluminum open deck trailer, 53 Studebaker body Pro Tour one of a kind Studevette PROJECT car (going to live on the road soon
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:57 PM   #49 (permalink)
AZStang
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Perfect! Just what I was looking for.

Thanks,
Shawn
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:47 PM   #50 (permalink)
WVRigrat05
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Sub'd.
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2005 Black- Blacked out Silverado LT3 pkg. 4X4 CC/SB, LLY
sunroof,leather,navi.
Blackout Performance built motor/trans/tuning-Gone

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getting there
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