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Old 05-18-2006, 07:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
sblair
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Turn key to 'start' and everything goes dead

Is there a circuit breaker somewhere? On my '83 K5 Blazer, the truck was warm so I didnt wait for the GP light to go out before trying to start the motor and its like I blew a fuze--everything went dead. Turn off and turn the key on--nothing. A few minutes later, I try again and I get the GP lights & gages like its back to normal, so I wait until the GP cycle completes, then turn the key... and everything went dead again. Bout a half hour later, after I tried poking around and slammed the hood shut, same thing--everything went dead when I turn the key to "start".

I checked all (I think) the fuzes and none were blown. Wasnt able to trace any wires to/from the ignition just cuz I didnt have my manual with me and wasnt sure quite what I was looking for.

Since the truck is still at work (left it there), obviously any insights to this problem would be appreciated, but I'm wondering if the electrical schematics in my '82 GM truck manual would still apply to the '83 K5 Blazer that I'm having these problems with? Or are there major differences between the '82 C20 and the '83 K5?
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DB2-4502 IP, manual GP switch,manual cold idle/adv switch
, relocated cold idle/adv switch w/manual bypass.


Last edited by sblair; 05-18-2006 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 05-18-2006, 07:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
Turbotug
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Check your battery cables. Probably corroded between terminal and post, or bad cables.
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Old 05-18-2006, 08:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
sblair
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Cables & terminals looked clean. Not so sure about terminals at the starter, but there's not even power getting to the gages. Everything's dead (though I guess I didnt try the headlights....)
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'82 Chevy C20 w/ 6.2L LL4 (J code) & TH400 (1st diesel/tinker-toy)
DB2-4502 IP, manual GP switch,manual cold idle/adv switch
, relocated cold idle/adv switch w/manual bypass.

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Old 05-18-2006, 08:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
Max Power
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Probably a fusible link blown or a batter starter solonoid. Check to see if you have power at the purple or yellow wire at the ignition switch when you are turning to crank position.
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Old 05-18-2006, 08:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Lights and all until you turn the key? if so and all goes out when key is turnd its probably just the battery or battery cable. 1 bad cell in the batt. is all it takes to not anything for the start but to give you everything else. good luck
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Old 05-18-2006, 08:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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When you turn to crank it shuts off your heater, radio etc but the ignition stays on.
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Old 05-18-2006, 11:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
sblair
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At first, I turned the key, I had gages, and glow plugs, etc, but when I turned it to "start" everything went dead (no noises, just dead). Now when I turn the key, its like I have no battery--NOTHING; no lights, no gages, no starter, no nothing...

Batteries are brand new, although underpowered IMO; the truck didnt really have batteries in it, so he bought a couple cheap (560 CCA) batteries to throw in it for the purchase.
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'96 Chevy K2500 Silverado Ext. cab long bed w/('95)6.5TD (F) w/ 4L80e, 4" Diamond Eye exhaust

'82 Chevy C20 w/ 6.2L LL4 (J code) & TH400 (1st diesel/tinker-toy)
DB2-4502 IP, manual GP switch,manual cold idle/adv switch
, relocated cold idle/adv switch w/manual bypass.


Last edited by sblair; 05-18-2006 at 11:23 PM.
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Old 05-19-2006, 10:33 AM   #8 (permalink)
nutty696
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I would say replace batteries first, after that I would check to make sure your not grounding out somewhere.
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Old 05-19-2006, 11:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
sblair
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Ok, seemed to have found the problem; was crawling under the vehicle and looking at the wires running into/off the solenoid, and the large terminal on the solenoid was loose. When I left the key "on" and wiggled the terminal, I could here the GP relay cycling on & off, so I figure that's the problem.

Dropped the starter and tried to tighten the terminal but whatever held it from the inside is loose too, so I bought a new solenoid to put in tommorrow. Hopefully that should take care of it.
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'96 Chevy K2500 Silverado Ext. cab long bed w/('95)6.5TD (F) w/ 4L80e, 4" Diamond Eye exhaust

'82 Chevy C20 w/ 6.2L LL4 (J code) & TH400 (1st diesel/tinker-toy)
DB2-4502 IP, manual GP switch,manual cold idle/adv switch
, relocated cold idle/adv switch w/manual bypass.

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Old 06-09-2006, 04:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
Lino
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Also try wiggling the key inside the ignition. I just went through this on my 94 Suburban. Turns out I need a new ignition switch.
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