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Old 08-12-2010, 06:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
sokoservices
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Battery connection for Dump Trailer

I have a 5 x 10 dump trailer that i am looking to get the power for the dump from the truck. Which battery do i use? I was looking to hook up #1 gauge wire from the battery and run it to the back of the truck to a connector like you would find for a winch. Do i hook it to the driver side or the passenger side battery? Also what type of inline fuse should I use? How do i know that #1 gauge wire is big enough for the load?

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 08-12-2010, 07:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I would use one of the free wiring calculators to figure out how large the cable should be. There are a ton of them out there. I like the beta circuit wizard from Blue Sea Systems. Don't think I can link to it here. Once you know the load and the distance, calculating the wire size is easy. For example: #1 gauge will handle up to 165 amps at a distance of 20 feet with only a 5% voltage drop.

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Old 08-12-2010, 09:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The dump trailer should have a battery on it, if so then just tap into the hot terminal of the trailer plug to recharge the battery. You should be able to use the dump trailer 25-30 times just off the battery with no issues. No need to run such a large wire from the front of the truck to the rear. Even if the trailer does not have a battery i would install one anyway, the battery will be cheaper than #1 wire.
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Old 08-12-2010, 12:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodchuck2 View Post
The dump trailer should have a battery on it, if so then just tap into the hot terminal of the trailer plug to recharge the battery. You should be able to use the dump trailer 25-30 times just off the battery with no issues. No need to run such a large wire from the front of the truck to the rear. Even if the trailer does not have a battery i would install one anyway, the battery will be cheaper than #1 wire.

The trailer does have a battery, however it goes weak since its power on the up and power on the down. So would using the small wire on the trailer plug pin pose any problems with heat and the draw? wouldnt it try to draw off of the truck since its connected to the battery and the truck? I was thinking it would be much better to have its own connection all the way back to the truck battery.

Last edited by sokoservices; 08-12-2010 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 08-12-2010, 03:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Is the truck charging the trailer battery through the 7 way plug? Check Pin 4 for 12V with a meter.

This link has instructions on how to connect the RV 12V charge wire and aftermarket brake controller on the NBS trucks.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...some-07-gm.htm

It really sounds like the battery installed on the trailer is not big enough for the electric dump system. It is quite common for trailer builders to skimp here and try to use a brake system breakaway battery. Installing a larger battery is usually cheaper and easier than rewiring the truck.
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Old 08-12-2010, 07:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailwhale View Post
Is the truck charging the trailer battery through the 7 way plug? Check Pin 4 for 12V with a meter.

This link has instructions on how to connect the RV 12V charge wire and aftermarket brake controller on the NBS trucks.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...some-07-gm.htm

It really sounds like the battery installed on the trailer is not big enough for the electric dump system. It is quite common for trailer builders to skimp here and try to use a brake system breakaway battery. Installing a larger battery is usually cheaper and easier than rewiring the truck.
Right now there is a 1200cca marine battery that is in the box for the pump for the hydro's. There is also a small break away battery. So how would the charge circuit handle the load of the draw on the system when the truck is running? i was tring to eliminate the battery on the trailer and only have it run off of the truck. Might not be a good idea is what i am geting from you guys..
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Old 08-12-2010, 07:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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My truck is a 2010 LMM with the intergrated break controller. So the above mentioned link doesnt apply as it is already factory wired with a controller.
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Go here for clearer instructions on how to hook up the 12V to the 7-pin:

How to Connect 12 Volt Feed for Trailer Power on LMMs with Pictures - Sticky??
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Last edited by Shasta; 08-12-2010 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoservices View Post
Right now there is a 1200cca marine battery that is in the box for the pump for the hydro's. There is also a small break away battery. So how would the charge circuit handle the load of the draw on the system when the truck is running? i was tring to eliminate the battery on the trailer and only have it run off of the truck. Might not be a good idea is what i am geting from you guys..

you keep worrying about the the load on the charging system... well how is it going to be any different?? the pump motor is going to be hooked to the truck battery instead of the trailer battery, with some heavy gauge wire going to the trailer..... so all you've done is add more of a headache, because you have not changed anything, really.... except adding more wire and more problems!

for example... the starter doesn't get its power from the alternator when you hit the key, it gets the power from the battery which stores the energy. so if your battery sucks what happens..... no start and a lot of cussing! so if the battery sucks in the dump trailer what happens.... no dump and lots of cussing, see the similarities?

moral of the story....
1. maybe you need to get a new battery for the trailer or add a second one if one(good) isn't cutting it!
2. make sure your trailer plug is giving the charge power to the trailer, via the fuse installed in under hood box(that isn't there from the factory)
3. maybe dont overload the dump trailer as much.
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Old 08-13-2010, 12:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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CCA means nothing to the DC motor on the trailer running the hydraulic pump. You need to look at 20hr reserve numbers and the "minutes" at 25Amps for this type of usage. Looks like you might have an 8D battery with 1200 CCA

Bottom line as QuikSSilver states is lack of energy to push the motor or the hydraulic system is not adequate for the load size.

IMO you have a couple of issues. If charge wire on RV plug is hot and connected to both trailer batteries with proper circuit breaker placement.

1. potential overload of hydraulic system with payload. Don't overload trailer make more trips.
2. battery is not fully charged at beginning of work. Charge battery before use and overnight between usage. The B&D "vector" chargers work pretty good for their price point.
3. Trip cycles are not long enough for truck to recharge adequately. This needs more battery capacity to solve.
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