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Old 07-12-2012, 01:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
MY06DURAMAX
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Gearbox/ steering wheel relation?

So i just replaced my gearbox, pretty sure i followed the directions correctly but now my steering wheel is at like 2 o'clock. Is there a way i can adjust this myself?
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
CmnSnse
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Originally Posted by MY06DURAMAX View Post
So i just replaced my gearbox, pretty sure i followed the directions correctly but now my steering wheel is at like 2 o'clock. Is there a way i can adjust this myself?

Yep, if it drives straight and the wheel is just crooked, that means your alignment is ok and you just need to align the wheel/shaft. you should be abe to loosen the joint(both ends), slide it back to disconnect and turn the wheel a spline or two to get it back where it should be and re-tighten.
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'05 LLY ExCab W/Shortbed, 4" turbo back exh. Rear Air Lift Air Springs W/PVC Accumulators = SOFT Ride, '06 Tow Mirrors W/Super Bright AMBER LED Signals, Russel SS Brake Lines, Raybestos Ball Joints, Bilstein 5100's, Tuff Country Traction Bars (Brackets Modified to fit with Air Springs) Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, DIY LED High Mount, Edge Insight CTS, EFI Live
91 gal X-fer tank ~ 2000mi. range unloaded
Pass Rear Axle Seal at 35k mi. (Park Brake Bind & Overheat)
Front Shafts Removed at 50k due to seal leak (Still Out + Hubs Bolted)
Front Hubs at 80 and 90k mi. (Started south at 45k) Both Hubs again at 308,580 mi.
Dash Gauges Fail at 185,000, Rebuilt at 295,000, All Rotors/Pads at 296,000
Transfer case rub at 243k mi. Merchant Auto Pump Upgrade + JB Weld
Steering will be replaced w/different system, got loose at 35k and is the same since.
Water/Pump at 308,580 mi. Hydroboost at 312,000, Frnt Shocks/Ball Joints at 326,000
Pinion Seal at 352,200
Currently at 384,350 mi. Still average 18-20 MPG.
Gotta do the FPR
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
oldred95
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Originally Posted by CmnSnse View Post
Yep, if it drives straight and the wheel is just crooked, that means your alignment is ok and you just need to align the wheel/shaft. you should be abe to loosen the joint(both ends), slide it back to disconnect and turn the wheel a spline or two to get it back where it should be and re-tighten.
That works on big trucks like the C4500, C5500 and so on but not on light duty trucks. The steering shaft only goes on the steering gear in one position.


To get the wheel straight take a marker and draw a line from the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod. Then loosen the jam nut and turn it accordingly to bring the steering wheel back around. If the steering wheel is off to the right to make the truck drive straight you need to pull the left wheel in and push the right wheel out. It should take roughly 2 rounds per inner tie rod to bring the wheel back around if you are at 2 oclock.

The easier option of course is go get the frontend aligned but this is no guarantee the wheel will be any straighter. Back when I was doing alignments I was super anal about doing my caster sweeps with the truck running and rocking the wheel back and forth slowly bringing it in towards center before locking it down and then adjusting the tie rods to get the toe set and wheel straight ahead. Even then sometimes it would still be off just a touch and I would have to tweak the tie rods a hair to get it perfect.
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:19 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Sounds like its going back to the alignment shop then, i dont feel comfortable messing with the tie rods myself. Wonder if they will still honor my warranty after changing a part?
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Old 07-13-2012, 05:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
Cwylie
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I would not tell them you changed anything unless they ask.
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
CmnSnse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred95 View Post
That works on big trucks like the C4500, C5500 and so on but not on light duty trucks. The steering shaft only goes on the steering gear in one position.
Sorry, it was my day to be ignorant . . . for some reason I was thinking of another one of my vehicles, and I JUST painted my new gear getting ready to replace the original in the Dmax.

After my first alignment at the shop with this truck I decided to start doing the 'track side' method of alignment. My linkage is loose enough to throw off the wheel lasers so a pro alignment really isn't all that great. Just grab the center link with the wheels off the groung and wiggle it, toe goes all over the place (+/- a few mm), the weight of the truck and caster keep the wheels from wandering too much. (really needs captive linear bearings, but anyway)

With new tires I will adjust caster depending on directional stability by feel. Camber I use a straight edge in relation to the fender, and toe is with a tape measure, tread front to back comparison. After you do it a few times it's really not so scary and you realize just how much a 'nut face off' can affect everything.

I won't do this on multilink rears (unless it's really bad) but these trucks aren't so bad.
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'05 LLY ExCab W/Shortbed, 4" turbo back exh. Rear Air Lift Air Springs W/PVC Accumulators = SOFT Ride, '06 Tow Mirrors W/Super Bright AMBER LED Signals, Russel SS Brake Lines, Raybestos Ball Joints, Bilstein 5100's, Tuff Country Traction Bars (Brackets Modified to fit with Air Springs) Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, DIY LED High Mount, Edge Insight CTS, EFI Live
91 gal X-fer tank ~ 2000mi. range unloaded
Pass Rear Axle Seal at 35k mi. (Park Brake Bind & Overheat)
Front Shafts Removed at 50k due to seal leak (Still Out + Hubs Bolted)
Front Hubs at 80 and 90k mi. (Started south at 45k) Both Hubs again at 308,580 mi.
Dash Gauges Fail at 185,000, Rebuilt at 295,000, All Rotors/Pads at 296,000
Transfer case rub at 243k mi. Merchant Auto Pump Upgrade + JB Weld
Steering will be replaced w/different system, got loose at 35k and is the same since.
Water/Pump at 308,580 mi. Hydroboost at 312,000, Frnt Shocks/Ball Joints at 326,000
Pinion Seal at 352,200
Currently at 384,350 mi. Still average 18-20 MPG.
Gotta do the FPR
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Old 07-28-2012, 03:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
MY06DURAMAX
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Update:
Never had time to take back to alignment shop, but the now the play i had replaced the gearbox for in the first place is back. So dissappointed right now.
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Old 07-28-2012, 04:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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How did you check for play?
The way I do it.
Truck off, laying under it, have someone turn the wheel. (not the tires the steering wheel)
I start at the wheels, if the tie rods don't move that's not your problem. If they do then that is the problem or part of.
Work your way to the steering shaft.
At this point having a new gear box the pitman arm should not move. If it does then the tie rods are bad, or maybe the pitman arm.
If the gear box does not move, then I think (not sure) these trucks have a rag joint in the colum. Would be right behind the gearbox. That is a good one to wear out. Good thing is it should only be about 10 dollars.
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