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Old 09-09-2009, 03:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
GregAbell
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Torsion Bars

I'm rebuilding the front end of my K2500HD. Everything is unbolted/removed, except the torsion bars are rusted SOLID to the lower A-Arm and also to the keys - I'd be happy to get either end apart. I've been beating on the A-Arms (forwards and back), along with liberal doses of Liquid Wrench & PB Blaster. I've tried using a 2 jaw puller to pull the A-Arm off of the torsion bar - not even a budge! If I could just get it to budge, I'd be able to beat it towards the front; then the back; then the front; eventually getting it off. I've tried using some "heat", but it didn't to anything either. I've tried using an air-hammer in the hole behind the keys, but all that did was to "polish" the end of the torsion bar (and make my ears ring). With the A-Arm winched towards the front of the truck, I slid a 3/4 pipe into the torsion bar opening, and beat it with a 16 lbs sledge - the bar still didn't budge.

So, anybody have any other "tricks"? I'm just about out of ideas! What I hoped to be a 1 or 2 day job, is now up to a week and a half! I've concidered cutting the bars (how much are new ones?), but then I'd still have to figure out how to get the remaining stuck pieces out.
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
bk95td
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I had The same problem with my 95 LD. I replaced the bushings with the a-arms hanging from the torsion bars,PIA
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
Rafedial1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregAbell View Post
I'm rebuilding the front end of my K2500HD. Everything is unbolted/removed, except the torsion bars are rusted SOLID to the lower A-Arm and also to the keys - I'd be happy to get either end apart. I've been beating on the A-Arms (forwards and back), along with liberal doses of Liquid Wrench & PB Blaster. I've tried using a 2 jaw puller to pull the A-Arm off of the torsion bar - not even a budge! If I could just get it to budge, I'd be able to beat it towards the front; then the back; then the front; eventually getting it off. I've tried using some "heat", but it didn't to anything either. I've tried using an air-hammer in the hole behind the keys, but all that did was to "polish" the end of the torsion bar (and make my ears ring). With the A-Arm winched towards the front of the truck, I slid a 3/4 pipe into the torsion bar opening, and beat it with a 16 lbs sledge - the bar still didn't budge.

So, anybody have any other "tricks"? I'm just about out of ideas! What I hoped to be a 1 or 2 day job, is now up to a week and a half! I've concidered cutting the bars (how much are new ones?), but then I'd still have to figure out how to get the remaining stuck pieces out.
First, get yourself a Torsion Bar unloading tool. this will take all the weight/pressure off the T-bars for easy removal. some local auto parts stores will let you rent them, but it's handy enough just to buy one.

Don't force the bar out, there is alot of tension on them, and it could be dangerous.
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Old 09-09-2009, 08:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
wordtoyourmom
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Do you have the front end off the ground with the keys completely unloaded?
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
bk95td
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You don't need the unloading tool if you remove the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle and lower the lower a-arm with the jack while the frame is supported by a jackstand. I've done 6 trucks this way. You do need the unloading tool to adjust the ride height. Of the 3 ifs trucks I've junked ,I was only able to remove the a-arms from the torsion bars on 1 of them. The keys were also siezed on all of them.
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92 k2500hd 6.5 4L80E std cab the work horse
4- 93 k2500hd 6.5 2-4L80E 2-NV4500 2-ex-cab 2 std
93 suburban gasser 4L60E Blown up-oil cooler lines 94 K2500HD 6.5td 4L80E new reman engine
94 GMC Yukon 2 door gasser
95 tahoe 2 dr 6.5 4L80E needs HG or engine
95 k2500ld 6.5 4L80E std cab bad trans
95 k2500hd 6.5 4L80E ex-cab
95 Yukon 2 dr gasser 4L60E blown engine-oil lines
2-95 K2500 Suburban 6.5TD 4L80E both need engines
97 k2500hd 6.5 4L80E std cab
97 k3500 C&C 6.5 4L80E std cab needs engine
98 k2500 hd 6.5 4L80E std cab bad trans
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Old 09-10-2009, 08:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Moved to steering and suspension.
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
GregAbell
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The above said "Everything is unbolted/removed" - so yeah, there is NO tension on anything.

I was able to FINALLY get the passenger side key removed (hopefully the driver side won't take too much longer). I heated the key up real HOT, then beat on the end of the torsion bar through that round hole using a 1/2" socket extension and a 3 lbs sledge, then heated it up, beat on it, heat, beat, heat, beat, etc. It finally started to move. After it finally started to move, it still took another 6 or more heating and beating cycles, but at least one side is now apart.
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
Charlie B
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Do you have enough room to just cut the keys off with a torch, after heating the keys so many times , they are junk now anyway. The torsion bars will probably be no good also if you heated them to much around where the keys sits. Charlie
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
gmmech
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They can really rust in the older style stamped steel arms like 88-96ish style, the new cast arms arent as bad. I have in the past cut the crossmember then removed the a-arm with the torsion bar then pulled the key off of the bar. Never could get it out of the arm.
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