Just wanted to show how I fixed a couple of kinked/collapsed hoses on my truck after discovering TSB# PIP4526. This is what the TSB says:
TSB #PIP4526: Diesel Engine Fuel Line Repairs - keywords DTC hose kink loss P0087 P0093 P1093 pipe power reduced repair restrict restriction SES suction supply vacuum - (Nov 7, 2008)
Subject: Diesel Engine Fuel Line Repairs
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The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
A dealer may need to perform a repair on the rubber portion of the fuel supply (suction) lines. The rubber section of the line could become kinked or collapse. Fuel lines that kink or collapse may induce a fuel system restriction (high vacuum gauge readings) or DTCs P0087, P0093, and/or P1093 to set.
If a technician was to suspect the rubber portion of the fuel feed line collapsing or kinking, replacement of only the rubber line is acceptable.
Recommendation/Instructions:
Complete the steps below to repair the rubber section of fuel supply line:
Carefully cut, split, and remove the OEM crimp from both ends of the flexible hose. These crimps can be cut with a small cut-off wheel. Split the crimp into two pieces (use your discretion on first cut location, then cut directly across from, or 180 degrees from first cut). Special care must be taken not to damage the flare on the end of the steel pipe that will be reused.
Remove the OEM crimps and flexible portion of hose from the existing supply line.
If replacing the rubber section of the supply line, a 1/2 ID hose meeting SAE specification 100R3 is suggested. Dealers may be able to find a local supplier for this hose, or can contact the manufacturer Parker Hannifin. The replacement hose would be a 1/2" diameter Parker part number 601-8 or H017-8. To find a local distributor the Parker website can be accessed.
Use worm type hose clamps (use double clamps on each end) to attach the replacement hose to the existing pipe.
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The above picture shows how kinked my supply line on the engine was. I replaced both sections of braided rubber hose on the supply line. One is on the left side of the engine by the glowplug controller, and the other to the drivers side of the transmission.
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Using a dremel with a small cutting wheel I cut the permanent crimps off of the rubber braided lines. I started from the rubber side working my way towards the metal tubing. The crimp butts up to a flare on the metal line. I stopping cutting just before this flare to avoid damaging it. With the majority of the crimp cut I was able to insert a flat tip screwdriver and pry the crimp apart. Using the screwdriver and prying the crimps apart allowed me to get by without making opposing cuts per the TSB. The above picture shows where the lines were getting weak and where I made my cut.
After getting the oem crimps removed it was as simple as cutting hose to length and installing them with double hose clamps on each end. The next three pictures show what I ended up with.
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Note: You may want to disconnect the supply line from the tank if your doing the line next to the tranismission, it is lower than the tank and will not stop leaking. I chose to try and be quick and ended up with a decent amount of fuel on me.
TSB #PIP4526: Diesel Engine Fuel Line Repairs - keywords DTC hose kink loss P0087 P0093 P1093 pipe power reduced repair restrict restriction SES suction supply vacuum - (Nov 7, 2008)
Subject: Diesel Engine Fuel Line Repairs
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
A dealer may need to perform a repair on the rubber portion of the fuel supply (suction) lines. The rubber section of the line could become kinked or collapse. Fuel lines that kink or collapse may induce a fuel system restriction (high vacuum gauge readings) or DTCs P0087, P0093, and/or P1093 to set.
If a technician was to suspect the rubber portion of the fuel feed line collapsing or kinking, replacement of only the rubber line is acceptable.
Recommendation/Instructions:
Complete the steps below to repair the rubber section of fuel supply line:
Carefully cut, split, and remove the OEM crimp from both ends of the flexible hose. These crimps can be cut with a small cut-off wheel. Split the crimp into two pieces (use your discretion on first cut location, then cut directly across from, or 180 degrees from first cut). Special care must be taken not to damage the flare on the end of the steel pipe that will be reused.
Remove the OEM crimps and flexible portion of hose from the existing supply line.
If replacing the rubber section of the supply line, a 1/2 ID hose meeting SAE specification 100R3 is suggested. Dealers may be able to find a local supplier for this hose, or can contact the manufacturer Parker Hannifin. The replacement hose would be a 1/2" diameter Parker part number 601-8 or H017-8. To find a local distributor the Parker website can be accessed.
Use worm type hose clamps (use double clamps on each end) to attach the replacement hose to the existing pipe.
The above picture shows how kinked my supply line on the engine was. I replaced both sections of braided rubber hose on the supply line. One is on the left side of the engine by the glowplug controller, and the other to the drivers side of the transmission.
Using a dremel with a small cutting wheel I cut the permanent crimps off of the rubber braided lines. I started from the rubber side working my way towards the metal tubing. The crimp butts up to a flare on the metal line. I stopping cutting just before this flare to avoid damaging it. With the majority of the crimp cut I was able to insert a flat tip screwdriver and pry the crimp apart. Using the screwdriver and prying the crimps apart allowed me to get by without making opposing cuts per the TSB. The above picture shows where the lines were getting weak and where I made my cut.
After getting the oem crimps removed it was as simple as cutting hose to length and installing them with double hose clamps on each end. The next three pictures show what I ended up with.
Note: You may want to disconnect the supply line from the tank if your doing the line next to the tranismission, it is lower than the tank and will not stop leaking. I chose to try and be quick and ended up with a decent amount of fuel on me.
