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Old 08-09-2011, 12:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
07keo02
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Collapsed/Kinked Fuel Line repair

Just wanted to show how I fixed a couple of kinked/collapsed hoses on my truck after discovering TSB# PIP4526. This is what the TSB says:

TSB #PIP4526: Diesel Engine Fuel Line Repairs - keywords DTC hose kink loss P0087 P0093 P1093 pipe power reduced repair restrict restriction SES suction supply vacuum - (Nov 7, 2008)

Subject: Diesel Engine Fuel Line Repairs
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
A dealer may need to perform a repair on the rubber portion of the fuel supply (suction) lines. The rubber section of the line could become kinked or collapse. Fuel lines that kink or collapse may induce a fuel system restriction (high vacuum gauge readings) or DTCs P0087, P0093, and/or P1093 to set.

If a technician was to suspect the rubber portion of the fuel feed line collapsing or kinking, replacement of only the rubber line is acceptable.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Complete the steps below to repair the rubber section of fuel supply line:

Carefully cut, split, and remove the OEM crimp from both ends of the flexible hose. These crimps can be cut with a small cut-off wheel. Split the crimp into two pieces (use your discretion on first cut location, then cut directly across from, or 180 degrees from first cut). Special care must be taken not to damage the flare on the end of the steel pipe that will be reused.
Remove the OEM crimps and flexible portion of hose from the existing supply line.
If replacing the rubber section of the supply line, a 1/2 ID hose meeting SAE specification 100R3 is suggested. Dealers may be able to find a local supplier for this hose, or can contact the manufacturer Parker Hannifin. The replacement hose would be a 1/2" diameter Parker part number 601-8 or H017-8. To find a local distributor the Parker website can be accessed.
Use worm type hose clamps (use double clamps on each end) to attach the replacement hose to the existing pipe.

Collapsed/Kinked Fuel Line repair-cimg2462.jpg

The above picture shows how kinked my supply line on the engine was. I replaced both sections of braided rubber hose on the supply line. One is on the left side of the engine by the glowplug controller, and the other to the drivers side of the transmission.

Collapsed/Kinked Fuel Line repair-cimg2454.jpg

Using a dremel with a small cutting wheel I cut the permanent crimps off of the rubber braided lines. I started from the rubber side working my way towards the metal tubing. The crimp butts up to a flare on the metal line. I stopping cutting just before this flare to avoid damaging it. With the majority of the crimp cut I was able to insert a flat tip screwdriver and pry the crimp apart. Using the screwdriver and prying the crimps apart allowed me to get by without making opposing cuts per the TSB. The above picture shows where the lines were getting weak and where I made my cut.

After getting the oem crimps removed it was as simple as cutting hose to length and installing them with double hose clamps on each end. The next three pictures show what I ended up with.
Collapsed/Kinked Fuel Line repair-cimg2450.jpg
Collapsed/Kinked Fuel Line repair-cimg2451.jpg
Collapsed/Kinked Fuel Line repair-cimg2456.jpg


Note: You may want to disconnect the supply line from the tank if your doing the line next to the tranismission, it is lower than the tank and will not stop leaking. I chose to try and be quick and ended up with a decent amount of fuel on me.
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:25 AM   #2 (permalink)
dnewton3
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Were you getting any of the fuel codes thrown, or did you do this as a pre-emptive approach?

If you were getting codes, did this repair make the condition cease and self-clear the codes?

Thanks for the pictures.
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
Shadow1
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07keo02,

Nice write-up and pictures. I'll save this one for future use.
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Last edited by Shadow1; 08-09-2011 at 06:21 AM.
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Old 08-09-2011, 12:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
07keo02
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I was not getting any codes. I have suspicion of having a weak cp3 as I seem to have low power when towing. I have never driven a duramax before I bought this one in April so it is hard to judge. With all my research I found this TSB and inspected my lines. I would think even if they weren't affecting performance, they surely were causing excess strain on the cp3 for who knows how long. The big thing with these lines are, they may not look collapsed on inspection, but after towing for long periods of time, the fuel starts to get very hot, so our trucks being a suction design (no lift pump) the lines will collapse if they are getting old or weak, especially in the bend sections. If your are getting any low pressure codes while towing for long periods, and can't diagnose any issue testing under no load, I would definitely consider replacing these lines.
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
dsauka
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I just replaced mine. Used the Parker 601-8 hose as recommended. My old lines were weak and collapsed just like the DIY. My truck was also throwing the P0087 code when towing uphill. Haven't towed again yet but I'm sure the collapsed hoses were the problem.
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
Drakeremoray
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsauka View Post
I just replaced mine. Used the Parker 601-8 hose as recommended. My old lines were weak and collapsed just like the DIY. My truck was also throwing the P0087 code when towing uphill. Haven't towed again yet but I'm sure the collapsed hoses were the problem.

Did it fix the P0087 code? I am throwing them left and right when I tow my 5th wheel. Seems to be happening going uphill between 1800-2000 rpm. I can make it up a little then I see blow smoke out the tail pipe and then it throws the code....frustrating.
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Old 09-11-2013, 01:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
07keo02
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Whats the details of your truck and miles, mods etc?
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------------------------------------------

EFI Live, Dual Nictane adapters with Cat water seperator and 2 micron filter, Raptor 150 lift pump with check valve bypass, Fumoto Valve, Stock straight pipe, SBC Dual disc, M/A Engine Mount and Trans Mount, MA Pump Rub Kit, Profab Intake Horn, Roadmaster active suspension, Moog pitman/idler/support, Cognito support kit, Intake heater delete, Kennedy high idle and airbox mod
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
Drakeremoray
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Ha! Sorry about that here is my Sig updated. Right now I am at 185,000 miles
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
07keo02
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This should not be the issue for you with your raptor 150. Your lines are under pressure. Does it happen on the stock tuning as well? It is possible that your cp3 is getting weak.
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------------------------------------------

EFI Live, Dual Nictane adapters with Cat water seperator and 2 micron filter, Raptor 150 lift pump with check valve bypass, Fumoto Valve, Stock straight pipe, SBC Dual disc, M/A Engine Mount and Trans Mount, MA Pump Rub Kit, Profab Intake Horn, Roadmaster active suspension, Moog pitman/idler/support, Cognito support kit, Intake heater delete, Kennedy high idle and airbox mod
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
dsauka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drakeremoray View Post
Did it fix the P0087 code? I am throwing them left and right when I tow my 5th wheel. Seems to be happening going uphill between 1800-2000 rpm. I can make it up a little then I see blow smoke out the tail pipe and then it throws the code....frustrating.
Mine ended up being the CP3. Replaced the CP3 and the code went away. It's a big job.
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