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Old 06-04-2010, 03:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
GMCPapa
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Changing Coolant

Up front please excuse me if I'm not a savy and some of you are. But I need some help and hopefully someone can give me an answer. This is my first diesel. I bought it new in 2005. The paper work says it's a Duramax Diesel 6.6L Turbo V8 Engine. I need to change the coolant in the truck.
I have changed the coolant in all of the cars with gasoline engines I've owned over the years. I have always used the Prestone Tee installed in the heater inlet hose. Drained the coolant and running a water hose to the tee ran the engine for a while to get all the old antifreeze out and then drain the system again. With it drained I fill the system half full with staight antifreeze and then add water to top it off...But I need some direction as how I should go about it on the truck.
If this tee method is acceptable for the Duramax how can I identify which is the heater inlet hose? I read somewhere that the engine has two drain plugs on the bottom of the engine?
I need some direction on what steps to take and identifying the plugs etc. Any photos would be of great help. And a step by step procedure.
I do appreciate any help. I try and maintain my stuff myself........can't afford to pay anyone when I can do it myself. So I so appreciate any help, suggestions etc anyone could share. And thank you in advance for helping me.
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
miniwally
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There is a radiator drain on the lowest passenger side corner of the radiator. It is a plastic fitting and should unscrew somewhat easy.

If it was me I would drain from that point, fill and flush with water, then fill with new dexcool in the mixture that you need for your area. I don't see the need to do a T in a heater line with the rad. drain.

Just my .02
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
86iroc
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^^^ what he said. I flushed mine a few weeks ago, easy job only took a few mins.
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Old 06-04-2010, 10:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I used the Prestone T to flush using the garden hose. I T'd at the heater hose connection that is easiest to get to, near the fuel filter.

I didn't leave the T installed, or cut any of the heater hoses. Instead, I used a short piece of temporary hose between the T and the metal connector that the heater hose connects to.

When done flushing, I removed the T and drained the water as much as possible. I then filled with distilled water, ran it, drained it. I might have done this again, but it was a year ago, so I forget. Then I filled with full-strength Prestone Dexcool. The water left in the block will result in a dilution of about 50-60%. By knowing the cooling system capacity, you can also compute how much Dexcool you need (2 gallons, I think, but mine takes a little more with the aux V2 radiator).

Use the bleeder on the front thermostat housing when filling, until water comes out when filling with distilled water. Use the bleeder until antifreeze comes out when filling with antifreeze.

Dexcool may have problems with non-distilled water, and with air in the system. That's why you should do the final flush with distilled water, and that's why you should use the bleeder.

You should also rinse out the plastic reservoir. BTW you fill the radiator through the plastic reservoir.
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Old 06-05-2010, 10:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Depending on where you live, I would try to avoid using tap water. When I do mine, I pick up a couple of gallons of distilled water from the store. Where I live there is so much iron and calcium in the water that it could cause hot spots in the block.

I do keep my eye on the overflow bottle. I usually just drain the radiator, refill with 1 gallon pure dexcool, then top off with distilled water, watching the bleeder screw until fluid comes out. I also go through the trouble of taking both hands and squeezing the upper radiator hose to get as much air out as possible.
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Old 06-12-2010, 01:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
dieseldan723
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Need Help - Coolant Change

I found the drain at the PS bottom of the radiator but the only way to use it is to remove it completely. When it came out it fell into the bucket and the coolant came out all over. I captured MOST of it, however a little bit spilled out. Too bad you can't direct it better.

Questions:

I only got about 2 gallons out of the radiator. I did remove the cap on the overflow tank. I thought I would get more than that. My guess is that I should refill it and try to get some more out before filling with Dexcool. Does this sound right?

I have read several posts that state you should remove the bleeder screw to know when it's full. WHERE is that screw?

If I use the above procedures to fill the system is there a possibility of air in the system? Will it bleed out itself? If not, how do you remove it?
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Old 06-12-2010, 10:46 AM   #7 (permalink)
jlawles2
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The bleeder screw is just to the left of the air conditioner compressor on the top front center of the thermostat housing. Almost looks like it should hold down the thermostat housing.

When you remove the screw, you may get more out of the system. You could also try turning the truck over for a couple of seconds to see if any more coolant comes out ( I have not tried this yet ). Like I stated earlier, I just remove the rad drain, and refill. As long as the fluid is not changing color from rust, there should be no contamination in the system to warrant a chemical flush.
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Silver Birch Metallic 2004.5 GMC K2500HD with 265/75's
Banks super scoop, tubing, intercooler, and cat back with the IQ on the Window (for now). BD driver side Exhaust manifold.
Airdog 150 on frame rail. Amsoil synthetics for lubrication, and dual Amsoil filters on the driver frame rail. PPE centrifuge install.
EGR blocked. PCV rerouted. Resonator blocked (reinstalled for looks). Bladerunner installed. Dead kitty by MBRP (front pipe) and down tube replaced with the MBRP (heat wrapped from the turbo down to the front pipe).
Mike L transmission. Original had 152,000 on it and was still running OK but had been limped several times.
Performax Gauges by ISSPRO in pod over mirror and overhead console (console pod by PPE).
----Looking to do an onboard air with a set of truck air horns. Want Nathan K5LA's but not in the budget at the moment.----
Added to my Dmax Fleet is 06 LBZ. Banks intake and exhaust, PROFAB downpipe and MBRP dead kitty replacement pipe. More to come.....
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
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A lot of the coolant will stay in the lower part of the block-- so the only way to get all coolant out, is to remove the drain plugs at each side of the block.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:33 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:44 AM   #10 (permalink)
RayK
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I have a water softener to remove minerials since the water is very hard. But, water softeners leave a little salt in the water. Does this matter?

How do you get rid of the old anti-freeze? Update: Just googled this and found out antifreeze has to be taken to hazardous waste dropoff. No charge for dropping it off.
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Last edited by RayK; 06-13-2010 at 11:47 AM.
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