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Old 12-05-2012, 06:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
signguy
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Really common problem with bumper pull toy haulers. If your toy hauler comes in at 10-12k loaded you have well over 2k on the tongue-

You need a new heavier duty hitch- not a real big deal or expense- But do it. A good friends GM hitch actually failed while he was under way- not pretty!

HOWEVER-

If your hitch is doing that you definitely want to do a really thorough inspection of the frame of your toy hauler. Very common for the frame of bumper pull toy haulers to suffer from stress fatigue after just a few years. Equalizer bars exacerbate the stress big time!

Start at the hitch and work your way back on both sides with a focus on the portion of the frame just after the walls of your unit rise up. From that point about 18" back is where a number of friends issues started.

Once you do the above- hitch up or better yet have someone else hitch so you can stand back and watch.

Lastly- take your equalizer bars off the minute you leave the asphalt. That will help your toy hauler last a lot longer!
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:43 AM   #12 (permalink)
chargeit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgaz View Post
Thanks chargeit, I didn't realize they were so cheap. Curt is a good brand then?

Camco 48054 RV 1400 lb Eaz Lift is the hitch we got.
Curt is a good brand built much heavier than stock as you can see in my thread pics.
I think all are built heavier than their actual ratings as there is only increased liability in rating them any higher than the truck's max ratings.
The 15602 will run a little more than 200 but is often not worth it IMO as I stated in the other thread.
Including Curt's forged steel ball mount and proper ball, you should still be less than $300.

Install is a simple 8 bolts and an hour. Deep well sockets help. Stock is metric 20mm ish and Curt is 13/16 if memory serves.
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
dddonkey
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Mine did the same thing and then started to bend. I put a class 'V' on there and all is well. I don't remember what brand but it hangs about 2-3 inches below the bumper and that is the only thing i don't like because i cant get the spare up there anymore (it is over sized).
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:31 AM   #14 (permalink)
Spluce
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fix hitch

I just had the same problem. It is an easy fix if you have a welder and a piece of 5/8 round carbon about 6" long" You put the carbon in the hole weld all around it ( it wont stick to the carbon ) ream out the hole to fit the pin again and grind the weld a little bit smooth on the outside. Fixed mine in about an hour.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:42 AM   #15 (permalink)
heymccall
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Well, for starters, that hitch is a Class IV 2" hitch, and as such, was labelled at 10,000# maximum, even with a weight distribution receiver.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:57 AM   #16 (permalink)
mgaz
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The sticker says 12,000lb with weight distributing, 1500lb tongue weight max. I'm guessing we at most had 10-11k total weight. It's a triple axle trailer.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:04 PM   #17 (permalink)
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My apologies. I've got an '05 here, but the sticker is gone.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Hole elongation is also caused by having the brake controller set too high. this pulls the trailer back from the truck, loading the pin with all that force. Try to keep the braking force on the trailer and the truck the same or close.
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:11 PM   #19 (permalink)
Charlie B
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it looks like you have to small a pin in the hole. 1/2 vs 5/8 pin=== charlie
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:21 PM   #20 (permalink)
turnpike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgaz View Post
I forgot, its the 12k lb receiver Chevy puts on. With a weight distribution hitch.
That looks like a 2 inch square draw bar, which I believe was rated for a 10,000 max weight of trailer, with something like 1000 lbs on the ball, with equalizer.

If it is the truly class 5 hitch it should have a 2 1/2 inch square draw bar.

Either way, at 12,000 trailer weights, just replace it with a bolt on class five, and get a new draw bar to go into the receiver.
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