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Old 02-25-2013, 02:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
dmax9
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Brake question, please help! Calling all Mechanics

My buddy has a 2001 Chevy 3500 8.1l 6-speed manual reg cab dually. He has been fighting brake problems for awhile now. Has no feel in the pedal, it will stop the truck but the pedal just has no feel till you get to the floor. They replaced the Master Cylinder, that didnt help. They haul a lot of big loads with this truck and are really getting aggravated that they cant figure this out, even the local mechanics shop they took it too cant get it working. Any advice or ideas would really be appreciated.
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
heymccall
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Search out "automated brake bleed".....There is a "redneck" way to bleed them, but, having a "qualified" dealer bleed them only takes an hour. Most dealers are ignorant as to how to bleed them properly, too.

You, the consumer, cannot bleed the dump valve portion of the EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module -ABS ) without a suitable scanner, or repeated ABS application followed by bleed, followed by application, followed by bleed, etc...... Hence the "redneck" nomenclature.

Furthermore, since the pedal height is an issue, the foundation hardware at each caliper needs to be free, as do the pads themselves.

If you need further links, I'll have time later to link some VERY relevant threads.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
dmax9
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thanks, if you have time i'd appreciate as many links as you can get me.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:15 AM   #4 (permalink)
dmax9
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Well I guess I jinxed myself, yesterday the brake line that runs over my gas tank started leaking bad. Hopefully its not too bad to change, but after reading all that stuff about bleeding the ABS correctly I guess I'll have to bring it to a shop to get that done.
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John Deere 6620 Turbo
Farmall 200-grandpa's
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
kcb37
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If you can keep the master clyinder full you may not.
But I would advise it anyway as the air will try to work it's way up.
I have not replaced any lines on my 03 yet but did do the rear line on my 96.
That one was not to bad. (I did get a roll, cut, bent, and flared it myself)
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
dmax9
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Im most likely gonna bend it myself too, but one day I would like to get the Stainless Steel complete kit and do the whole truck.
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2002 Silverado 2500HD
496 BB
ZF-6-speed

BROTHERHOOD OF HANDSHAKERS CLUB #121
REG CAB CLUB MEMBER #69
John Deere 4640
John Deere 6620 Turbo
Farmall 200-grandpa's
A lot of other GREEN equipment
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
kcb37
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Not sure how it's going to work on these but I would imagine it won't be that much different either.
I cut the line about at the firewall, then at the axle just pulled it out the back of the truck.
Put a vacuum line/port cap on end of the new line, and unrolled and feed it up the frame. Bent/shaped the front got it hooked up.
Then I was able to get the line back into the clips along the frame. Broke one.
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2003 2500HD Silverado, ECSB, 3.73, G80, Tekonsha P3, 4" Silverline Dual Exhaust 5" Tips, Autometer Boost & Pyro Guages, Mobil 1 Delvac (TES-295), Opti Lube XPD, 2nd set injectors 109,000, 3rd set injectors 153,000, Cobra 29LTD (peaked & tuned), Wilson 5,000 mileage 172,000
2005 Cavalier 4dr.
1996 1500 Silverado, ECSB, 5.7, 4L60E, 3.73's Powertrax Locker, Lakewood Slappers, mileage 190,000
1974 Corvette, 350, 4 speed, T-tops. Bright red. No tickets yet...
1949 F-1, Flathead 6, 4 speed
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
heymccall
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To make the brakes work as designed, the important links are in here 2007 chevy 3500 with brake problems
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetSome8.1HD
Its not like I said I enjoyed reading Good Housekeeping while taking a candle lit bubble bath then proceeding to using a loofah with exfoliating creams all while thinking about you . Now THAT would be creepy
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