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Old 12-09-2006, 12:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
Torq
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How to remove spider gears from limited slip 10 bolt

Anybody know how to get the limited slip govenor out of the cage so the axle block and spider gears can be removed to take the axles out of a 10 bolt GM rear end?
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Old 12-09-2006, 10:43 AM   #2 (permalink)
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To remove the axles, IIRC, all you have to do is remove the bolt that holds the pin in, use a 5/16" wrench, again IIRC and slide the pin out then push the axle in toward the center, then remove the "C" clips a magnet makes it easier, then remove the axle.

Should not have to remove the Spiders.

Again, it has been awhile and I do not think they have changed that much.......
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Old 12-09-2006, 12:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torq;1457032;
Anybody know how to get the limited slip govenor out of the cage so the axle block and spider gears can be removed to take the axles out of a 10 bolt GM rear end?


Removal Procedure



  1. <LI type=1>Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. <LI type=1>Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels. <LI type=1>Remove the brake caliper bracket. It is not necessary to remove the brake caliper. Refer to Brake Caliper Bracket Replacement - Rear in Disc Brakes. <LI type=1>Remove the rear cover and the gasket. Refer to Rear Axle Housing Cover and Gasket Replacement . <LI type=1>Remove the pinion shaft locking bolt.


    <LI type=1>On axles without a locking differential, remove the pinion shaft.


    <LI type=1>On axles with a locking differential, remove the shaft part way. Rotate the case until the pinion shaft touches the housing.


    <LI type=1>On axles with a locking differential, use a screwdriver, or a similar tool, in order to enter the differential case and rotate the lock (1) until the lock aligns with the thrust block (2).


    <LI type=1>Push the flange of the axle shaft (1) toward the differential. <LI type=1>Remove the C-lock (4) from the button end of the axle shaft (1). Important: When removing the axle shaft, do not rotate the shaft. Rotating the shaft will misalign the gears. Misaligning the gears will make the assembly difficult.
  2. Remove the axle shaft (1) from the housing (5).
<A href="http://service.gm.com/servlets/BlobShtml?ShtmlFile=795629&evc=sm&pubid=437&cellId =55829&mspsdsubkey=2712#ss2-795629">Installation Procedure


  1. Important: Carefully insert the axle shaft in order to not damage the seal.

    <LI type=1>Install the axle shaft (1) into the rear axle housing (5). <LI type=1>Slide the axle shaft (1) into place allowing the splines to engage the differential side gear. <LI type=1>On axles without a locking differential, place the lock (4) on the button end of the axle shaft (1). <LI type=1>On axles with a locking differential, keep the pinion shaft partially withdrawn.


    <LI type=1>On axles with a locking differential, place the C-lock (1) on the axle shaft (3) so that the ends are flush with the thrust block (2). <LI type=1>Pull the shaft flange outward in order to seat the lock in the differential gear.


    <LI type=1>Align the hole in the pinion shaft with the bolt hole in the differential case. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
    <LI type=1>Install the new pinion shaft locking bolt.

    Tighten
    For the 8.6 inch axle, tighten the pinion shaft locking bolt to 36 Nm (27 lb ft).
    For the 9.5 inch axle, tighten the pinion shaft locking bolt to 50 Nm (37 lb ft).
    <LI type=1>Install the rear cover and the gasket. Refer to Rear Axle Housing Cover and Gasket Replacement . <LI type=1>Install the brake caliper bracket. Refer to Brake Caliper Bracket Replacement - Rear in Disc Brakes. <LI type=1>Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels. <LI type=1>Fill the rear axle. Use the proper fluid. Refer to Capacities - Approximate Fluid and Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations in Maintenance and Lubrication.
  2. Lower the vehicle.
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Old 12-09-2006, 12:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Excellent data guys, I am back in the game. One axle out.
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Old 12-09-2006, 08:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Just out of curiosity, why are you pulling the axles?
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Old 12-09-2006, 08:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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remember to replace those seals since the axels there out already. dont want to do it again anytime soon. becarful the axels back in that you dont beat the seals up or slid the axel across the them tomuch.
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Old 12-10-2006, 06:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Gearing it up, replacing 3.42s with 3.08s. I have a two wheel drive C1500.

After I got it apart I found a bad carrier bearing, now the replacing bearings and looking for a shop to press the bears off and back on (or drive to my brother inlaws). Also didn't realize the pinion bearing had to be pressed on/off, thought since it need to be shimmed it would be a slip on/off.

Any tips on how to measure the pinion setting? Its suppose to be 2.468 inches to the center of the ring gear to the end of the pinion gear. What are the chances that the old shim will be correct for the new gears?!
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Old 12-10-2006, 07:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If you are using GM factory 3.08 ring and pinion, use the shim that came with your truck with the 3.42's. Also remember that the bolts holding the ring to the carrier are left handed threads and need to be torqued down really hard along with the pinion bolt. Be sure to keep the carrier shims left and right on the left and right side. Then you can do a smear test with white grease to see your pattern on the ring.
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Old 12-10-2006, 10:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
Torq
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Thanks Reineke, I am using factory GM gears, glad to hear my old shim will work. Thanks for the tip on the ring bolts, no wonder my air gun would break them loose. : )

I kept the shims sorted by side, actually the left side (ring gear side) doesn't have any extra shims, only the large one. The right side has one or two, haven't counted, just left them together so far.

FWIW The bad bearing was on the ring gear side.

Thanks, I'll set up as factory first and try the swipe test.
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Old 12-10-2006, 11:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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You'll surely be swapping shims around as no 2 gear sets are the same... make sure the backlash is correct before checking contact pattern. The ring gear bolts are torqued to 95 ft. lbs., tighten the pinion nut until proper preload is achieved IIRC it's 28 inch lbs for new bearings. Some use a plain old inpact whench to tighten pinion but preferred way is to use a torque multiplier and turn it by hand.

I usually put some loctite on the ring gear bolts, if one comes out it makes a mess, also loctite pinion nut, I usually peen the nut in 2 spots for extra insurance against nut coming loose. For this I use a center punch.
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