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#1 (permalink) |
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Diesel Technician
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Help! Battery being drained periodically, can't figure it out
I need help, auto electric issues are like black magic to me. I'm not sure if I'm even describing the issue correctly in the title, but here's a rundown of what's happening with my truck.
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2006 GMC 2500HD White CCSB 4wd.Diamond Eye 4" turbo back with Magnaflow hi flow 4" cat, EFI Live tune by Idaho Rob with DPS5 switch Nicktane OEM adaptor w/Cat 2micron, Nicktane secondary fuel filter w/Cat 2micron, Pareto Top Dog oil bypass filter, PPE Airbox mod Kennedy twin lift pumps, EGR blocker Tony's PCV re-route, Amsoil fluids Cognito UCAs, Fox 2.0 shocks, Cognito steering braces, Cognito tie rods, limit straps, NAPA upper & lower ball joints, Energy Suspension LCA bushings, 1" blocks in rear, Sulastic Shackles KMC XD black 18x9 4.71"bs Ambush wheels w/Nitto Trail Grapplers 285/65/18 |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Diesel Laureate
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Monroeville, PA USA
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Dude, the batteries are sulphated (ie...past their service life).
My electronic (capacitance/ high frequency) battery tester will show how many CCA's are left in each battery. Shirley, someone in your neck of the woods has a "non old-school" battery tester. Most, if not all, auto parts stores do. The more times a battery is drawn below normal, the shorter it's service life. And each time, it loses a little more capacity. BTW, I like the consistent performance from DEKA batteries, and the extended service life that I receive from them. Search DEKA on here for plenty more on batteries.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Diesel Master
![]() Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: In, on or about the water, MD
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There is voltage and there is capacity. You can take 8 AAA batteries and make 12 volts, but sure won't start your truck! As a battery gets old it looses capacity and likely they are shot. If in doubt, give them a full charge and have them capacity tested. And yes, a weak battery could explain all your symtoms, but so could a poor connections. The batteries would be the first place to start though.
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2008 Chevy Crew Cab LT2 2500HD Summit White Line-X over the rail Extang solid fold tonneau cover 1800W Xantrex Prosine Inverter & third battery Lovin my Michelin LTX M/S2 tires ![]() RAP (Retained Accesory Power) How-To RetroSolutions Super Bright Reverse Bulbs IHBB Member #2 Offline
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Diesel Technician
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Quote:
I thought I had the latest/greatest Black and Decker Smart Charger with all the bells and whistles, but it doesn't test capacity. I'll have to call the local auto parts store and see if their's does.
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2006 GMC 2500HD White CCSB 4wd.Diamond Eye 4" turbo back with Magnaflow hi flow 4" cat, EFI Live tune by Idaho Rob with DPS5 switch Nicktane OEM adaptor w/Cat 2micron, Nicktane secondary fuel filter w/Cat 2micron, Pareto Top Dog oil bypass filter, PPE Airbox mod Kennedy twin lift pumps, EGR blocker Tony's PCV re-route, Amsoil fluids Cognito UCAs, Fox 2.0 shocks, Cognito steering braces, Cognito tie rods, limit straps, NAPA upper & lower ball joints, Energy Suspension LCA bushings, 1" blocks in rear, Sulastic Shackles KMC XD black 18x9 4.71"bs Ambush wheels w/Nitto Trail Grapplers 285/65/18 Last edited by BIF1; 11-24-2012 at 01:58 PM. Reason: grammar |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Diesel Master
![]() Join Date: Apr 2009
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It could easily be a loose / corroded cable as well. Batteries are always the first place to look, but both will give you the same symptoms
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2008 Chevy Crew Cab LT2 2500HD Summit White Line-X over the rail Extang solid fold tonneau cover 1800W Xantrex Prosine Inverter & third battery Lovin my Michelin LTX M/S2 tires ![]() RAP (Retained Accesory Power) How-To RetroSolutions Super Bright Reverse Bulbs IHBB Member #2 Offline
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#6 (permalink) |
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Diesel Technician
Join Date: Sep 2010
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Take em to auto zone. They'll test your batteries and your alternator for free.
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James 05 LLY CC/SB EFI Live, ML Trans/Converter, ADII 165 and some little mods. Coming soon: Home made up pipes, 3" Y bridge and HD bumpers. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Diesel Master
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Alberta/Arizona
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You mention 1000 CCC batteries.....should that be cold cranking amps?
I tend to like the smaller capacity ( 680 CCA) batteries. The plates are thicker and stand up to the vibration better. And as said above, one bad draw down can be the end. Also, fully charged, and idle over night, the voltage should still be about 12.8 volts, and stay above 10.5 cranking, and come up to 14.3 charging. In cold sub zero weather the charge voltage should peak about 14.8. If that doesn't fully charge the batteries according to a hydrometer test, something has to be fixed. From my read of your OP, it sounds more like a bad/corroded/burnt connection between the batteries, starter, and/or alternator. You may have a periodic drain that may be part of a bad connection.
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Turnpike '05 Chev, 2500HD, CC, SB, Duramax, Allison, 4WD, bought new April '05-times up - off warranty, now 135,000 miles, LBZ mouthpeice, Blocker Plate & Unplugged EGR, Air Box cut out, lost the cat, 52 US Gal (196 Litre) Titan Fuel Tank, SuperChips tuner on Tow mode, AirLift air bags, BrakeSmart Trailer Brake controller, PaceEdwards cover-replaced 2013, PopLock tailgate lock, DSP Fifth Hitch, JVC KW-NT1 headunit, "AutoEnginuity" scanner. '02 GMC, 2500HD, CC, SB, D/A, 4wd, Traded in - wrong color
Last edited by turnpike; 11-25-2012 at 12:26 AM. |
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#8 (permalink) | |||
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#9 (permalink) |
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Diesel Technician
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I still need your help, but a little update.
I don't know if its correct statement to say that the batteries are dead, but in any case just about every day now, the truck does the "click-click-click" thing and won't start. That's if the engine is cold, if I've driven it recently (within the last couple hours) it starts. I have however been able to get it to start either by continually trying, or as in today I popped the hood and wiggled the positive terminal connection on the driver's side battery, and it started. In either case this has made me feel pretty sure its a connection or cable issue, not the batteries! However..........today I also finally got around to taking it to O'Reilly Auto and having them put their tester on it. Kid puts his tester on each battery and his tester tells him each battery is bad. I confirm what he's testing and he says the tester puts a load on the battery then tests. He says they are shot. So now I am thoroughly confused. On one hand I'm able to get the truck started by continually cranking on it or jiggling the cable, which makes me think its not a battery issue, and on the other hand a load tester is telling me they are shot. Suggestions?!
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2006 GMC 2500HD White CCSB 4wd.Diamond Eye 4" turbo back with Magnaflow hi flow 4" cat, EFI Live tune by Idaho Rob with DPS5 switch Nicktane OEM adaptor w/Cat 2micron, Nicktane secondary fuel filter w/Cat 2micron, Pareto Top Dog oil bypass filter, PPE Airbox mod Kennedy twin lift pumps, EGR blocker Tony's PCV re-route, Amsoil fluids Cognito UCAs, Fox 2.0 shocks, Cognito steering braces, Cognito tie rods, limit straps, NAPA upper & lower ball joints, Energy Suspension LCA bushings, 1" blocks in rear, Sulastic Shackles KMC XD black 18x9 4.71"bs Ambush wheels w/Nitto Trail Grapplers 285/65/18 |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Diesel Master
![]() Join Date: Apr 2009
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Have you checked the voltages as I suggested?
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2008 Chevy Crew Cab LT2 2500HD Summit White Line-X over the rail Extang solid fold tonneau cover 1800W Xantrex Prosine Inverter & third battery Lovin my Michelin LTX M/S2 tires ![]() RAP (Retained Accesory Power) How-To RetroSolutions Super Bright Reverse Bulbs IHBB Member #2 Offline
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