Tips on doing Dually Brakes

[HayJay]

I just did a complete brake job on my dually (rotors and pads) last weekend and I thought I would post a little info about it. Before I did them I had asked on here about how much work it would be and I got little or no info. Basically, a bunch of guys with 2500HD's telling me that it was not a big job.

This is why I posted this in the 3500 forum.

Rest assured, it is a big job. Don't let anyone with a 2500HD tell you it's not.

First, the caliper bolts were very tight, but the caliper bracket bolts were MEGA tight. It took a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 30" long pipe to break them loose.

On the rears, the axles DO have to be removed. This is not a big deal though, as a 3/4" socket and a breaker bar will break them loose. The axles then slide right out. You will have only a small amount of gear oil that will come out with the axles. Not a big deal.

Once the axles are out, you can access the snap ring and hub nut. The ring pops right out and you should be able to unscrew the nut by hand. If it is a little tight, use the hub socket. (You will need to have the 6 pin hub socket for 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, to re-install the hub and tighten the nut when you are done. So you can use it to remove the nut also, if need be.)

With the nut removed, you can pull the rotor and hub assembly off. It will likely be tight, but a couple smacks with a hammer to the back side of the rotor should break it loose.

Once you have the hub and rotor off you will need to seperate them by removing all the wheel studs. I decided to sacrifice two lugnuts and use them to remove the studs. By screwing a lug onto the stud a little ways, you will be able to hit the lug several times with a good sized hammer and knock each stud out. I ended up using one lug per rotor, as each one took a pretty good beating and I didn't want to bend any studs. Go buy a couple new lugnuts before you start, if you do it this way.

You install the new rotors onto the hubs, by re-installing the studs. If you have a good strong impact wrench, you can probably draw them through with a lugnut. I do not have an impact, so I just pounded them back in with a hammer and an old socket extension. Some people may buy new studs and some may re-use the old ones. I re-used mine. They pounded in just as hard as they came out, so I'm not too concerned about it. The second time I do these though, I will replace them.

Now you will use that 6 pin hub socket to tighten the hub nut. The thread for the axle seal replacement has the torque spec. The calipers and caliper brackets go on as they came off. I replaced the axle flange gaskets and then re-installed the axles. They slide right in, no issues.

The only real trouble I had on the fronts, was getting the rotors off. After the calipers, caliper brackets and the wheel mounting adapter were off (8 nuts no trouble), I could only pull the rotors about a half inch off. There was a thick coating of rust and corrosion on the inside diameter of the rotor, around the flange, so I had to beat both rotors all the way off with a hammer. Once off though, everything went back together without issue.

Bottom line: it's a lot of work. Considering I spent just under $400 in parts, I would think it would cost over $1,000 including parts, to have a shop do it. You'll earn the money you save doing it yourself, though.

I would have liked to have had this info before I did mine, as it would have saved me some running around and extra time. Hope this helps any of you getting ready to do yours for the first time.

Good luck.

[ticki2]

Thanks for posting , sometimes replies are pretty thin , especially when you need it.

[HayJay]

Torque the hub nut to about 50 lbs ft and the axle flange bolts to 148 lbs ft.

[THUNDERUSONE]

Where did you get your rotors and 6 pin socket. I am not too far from doing mine and I need to get the socket.

[HayJay]

Originally Posted by THUNDERUSONE

Where did you get your rotors and 6 pin socket. I am not too far from doing mine and I need to get the socket.

You can get everything at your local parts store. I happened to get my rotors and pads from Murray's and the socket from Advance.

[gmd_pps]

thanks for posting.
just done my brakes and rotors are next soon.
I was under the impression that the dually rear rotor can come off without
removing the hub ?? or am I wrong ..
thanks would appreciate an answer
thanks
gmd

[jtaylor11]

There is a member on here with an 08 that has Kodiak rear brakes. Do ya'll know anything about doing that upgrade?

[Bman]

Also curious roughly how many miles you're finding you need to do your brakes? Thx.

[TCosgrove]

Originally Posted by Bman

Also curious roughly how many miles you're finding you need to do your brakes? Thx.

I just had the brakes done on my 06 Dulley at 104,000 miles. I only needed the rears. The fronts were good
I do do a lot of heavy towing and I rely on the tow mode in the trans to slow me down.
Cosgrve

[HayJay]

Originally Posted by Bman

Also curious roughly how many miles you're finding you need to do your brakes? Thx.

I did mine at 135k miles. The rears needed to be replaced for sure, but the fronts could have gone a little longer. I decided to just go ahead and do all four at once.

My truck does nothing but heavy weight, long distance towing. Very little stop and go traffic driving. If that helps.