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Old 10-21-2012, 10:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
Dirty30
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G80 fix

Anyone have a write up on g80 teardown? My limited slip went out and i wanna try and fix it. But never been inside it. Is it something you can fix or better taking it in??
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
57diesel
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Most shops seem to hate them and say they can't get parts for them. Supposedly a dealer can get the parts.

I have had them open but not attempted to do any repairs. The central part is like any limited slip where there is a lot of crap jammed into a small space in the carrier. It all comes out with the carrier so I would imagine once the carrier is out and you have it on the bench its not all that complicated but again this is just a guess.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
DURAtotheMAX
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I would kinda like to know too. Every thread about the Gov-lock's just turns into a bunch of idiots saying "oh its not worth the trouble, dont bother fixing that POS, just put in an XXXX locker blah blah blah".

But I dont want a different kind of locker. I like gov-locks, when they are working properly. I like how one wheel can be completely free, yet it still works (something that will throw a "limited slip" for a loop).

I hate the way Detroit lockers drive on the street.

And I think running selectable lockers in the rear is stupid and annoying. Because these arent rock crawlers. I want to be at an intersection, and if there are no cars around, I want to be able to get on it a little, and have the thing automatically lock right there for a little 2-wheel sideways-action, and then unlock again when I get off the throttle.

Call me stupid, but I just really like the way they work/drive.

There has to be some way to set them up properly and get them adjusted. Because ive seen high mile gov-locks that still work great, and other low mile ones that act like an open diff all the time.

So lets not turn this thread into a bunch of worthless govlock-haters comments...If you dont have a constructive/helpful comment regarding fixing/rebuilding the G80, then dont even bother posting.

ben
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i dunno if this could be a sticky er something but i could put up some gm tech articles if ya want....

Locking Differential Disassemble (8.6, 9.5, 11.5 Inch Axle)
Tools Required

J 26252 Locking Differential Governor Remover
1. Remove the ring gear, if necessary. Refer to Drive Pinion and Ring Gear Replacement .



2. Remove the governor bushing using the J 26252 . (can retrofit a cheap c-clamp with stationary side cut in a v)
3. Remove the governor assembly.
To aid in the removal of the governor assembly, turn the side gear as necessary to position the governor assembly between two of the side gear teeth.



4. Remove the latching bracket assembly bushing using the J 26252 .
To aid in the removal of the latching bracket assembly, turn the side gear as necessary to position the latching bracket assembly between two of the side gear teeth.
5. For the 8.6, 9.5 inch axles, remove the pinion shaft lock bolt.
6. For the 11.5 inch axle, remove the pinion shaft retaining pin.
7. Remove the pinion shaft.
8. Remove the differential pinion gears and the thrust washers.
Rotate the pinion gears and roll the pinion gears and the thrust washers out of the case through the differential window.
Mark the pinion gears and thrust washers accordingly for re-assembly.
9. Remove the thrust block.
10. Remove the right side gear and clutch discs assembly.
11. Remove the right side shim.



12. Remove the left side gear (cam unit) and clutch disc assembly.



13. Remove the left side gear thrust washer.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Locking Differential Cam Unit Disassemble (11.5 Inch Axle)



1. Remove the retaining ring.



2. Disassemble the cam unit and clutch disc assembly as follows:
2.1Remove the guide clips (6).

2.2Remove the clutch discs and the splined discs (7–16).

2.3Remove the wave washer (5).

2.4Remove the fuse disc (4).

2.5Remove the carbon eared disc (3).

2.6Disassemble the cam plate (2) from the cam side gear (1).
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Last edited by stoddardlly; 11-01-2012 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Locking Differential Clutch Disc Assembly Disassemble (11.5 Inch Axle)








1.

Remove the guide clips (3).





2.

Remove the clutch discs and the splined discs (2, 4–7) from the side gear (1).
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I've heard there are 2 centrifugal type governors inside. 1 to engage the lock when wheel speed differential is >20 rpm, and a second to release the lock function when wheel speed >25 mph. IMO, if you could modify the second one to keep the wheels locked up longer it would make the G80 a lot more to my liking.

I found that my G80 would release almost immediately after breaking the tires loose... No fun at all.
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:23 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DURAtotheMAX View Post
I would kinda like to know too. Every thread about the Gov-lock's just turns into a bunch of idiots saying "oh its not worth the trouble, dont bother fixing that POS, just put in an XXXX locker blah blah blah".

But I dont want a different kind of locker. I like gov-locks, when they are working properly. I like how one wheel can be completely free, yet it still works (something that will throw a "limited slip" for a loop).

I hate the way Detroit lockers drive on the street.

And I think running selectable lockers in the rear is stupid and annoying. Because these arent rock crawlers. I want to be at an intersection, and if there are no cars around, I want to be able to get on it a little, and have the thing automatically lock right there for a little 2-wheel sideways-action, and then unlock again when I get off the throttle.

Call me stupid, but I just really like the way they work/drive.

There has to be some way to set them up properly and get them adjusted. Because ive seen high mile gov-locks that still work great, and other low mile ones that act like an open diff all the time.

So lets not turn this thread into a bunch of worthless govlock-haters comments...If you dont have a constructive/helpful comment regarding fixing/rebuilding the G80, then dont even bother posting.

ben
AMEN! I love how everyone thinks the dodge unit is an upgrade, despite the fact that it works about as well as a broken G80.
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
JRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DURAtotheMAX View Post
I would kinda like to know too. Every thread about the Gov-lock's just turns into a bunch of idiots saying "oh its not worth the trouble, dont bother fixing that POS, just put in an XXXX locker blah blah blah".

But I dont want a different kind of locker. I like gov-locks, when they are working properly. I like how one wheel can be completely free, yet it still works (something that will throw a "limited slip" for a loop).

I hate the way Detroit lockers drive on the street.

And I think running selectable lockers in the rear is stupid and annoying. Because these arent rock crawlers. I want to be at an intersection, and if there are no cars around, I want to be able to get on it a little, and have the thing automatically lock right there for a little 2-wheel sideways-action, and then unlock again when I get off the throttle.

Call me stupid, but I just really like the way they work/drive.

There has to be some way to set them up properly and get them adjusted. Because ive seen high mile gov-locks that still work great, and other low mile ones that act like an open diff all the time.

So lets not turn this thread into a bunch of worthless govlock-haters comments...If you dont have a constructive/helpful comment regarding fixing/rebuilding the G80, then dont even bother posting.

ben
You might change your mind when the g80 shatters and wrecks your housing and you have to replace the whole rear end ($1000 used+labor). It happened to me twice in my avalanche.

Truetrac is way to go. I am not running one in my diesel now but it will be the first thing to go in it when the warranty drops.
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:58 AM   #10 (permalink)
stoddardlly
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Locking Differential Cam Unit Assemble (11.5 Inch Axle)



1. Apply axle lubricant, GM P/N 12378261 (Canadian P/N 10953455) or equivalent meeting GM Specification 9986115, to the surface of each disc.
2. Assemble the left side or the flange-end side cam unit and clutch disc assembly as follows:
2.1Install the cam plate (2) to the cam side gear (1).

2.2Install the carbon-faced eared disc (3).

2.3Install the fuse disc (4).

2.4Install the wave washer (5).

2.5Install the 1st non-carbon eared disc (7).
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