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Old 11-08-2012, 08:25 PM   #41 (permalink)
guimond47
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U can get the g80 to unlock at higher speeds, u just have to
Trim the counter weight alilbit
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new Eaton detroit locker, threw that g80 junk out. Awesome to drift and fishtailling
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:17 AM   #42 (permalink)
BlackMax Canada
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So how long do I have before complete destruction???

Doing fall fluids and found these 2 gems on the drain plug....



So this is where they came from





Been reading (fast skim) in this thread that most of those parts are replaceable. I'm no stranger to differentials (but hate working on them)
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:03 PM   #43 (permalink)
1stdeuce
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Those are the same teeth that I found on my drain plug!! I unfortunately haven't been able to take my rear diff apart thanks to a lot of things, but i found those teeth 40k miles ago and I'm still driving it. It's not going to explode or anything, it's just going to break off more teeth, and not work. At the moment, you probably just need the cam gear. I have the P/N at home... You might also want to toss clutches in it. The clutches should grab and take the load off the cam gear teeth, but it seems that for some reason they're not grabbing well enough, and the teeth become the weak link. Do you know if you're running LSD additive, or super slippery axle lube of some kind?? I had suspicions that the G80 doesn't like lubes that are too slick, because the clutches can't develop enough traction to lock it, and the teeth break instead. Just curious if your case might support that theory.

Chris
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:01 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stdeuce View Post
Do you know if you're running LSD additive, or super slippery axle lube of some kind?? I had suspicions that the G80 doesn't like lubes that are too slick, because the clutches can't develop enough traction to lock it, and the teeth break instead. Just curious if your case might support that theory.

Chris
I figured at the worst, it'd keep dropping teeth and just quit working. Since those 2 teeth were in fact at the drainplug is (believe it or not) a comforting feeling that they dont get flung around and run through the crown n pinion.

85W140 synthetic and no additives. The heavy stuff because I do tow heavy, synth because it can get -30C quite easily, and its the same as I run in my offroad toy so it keeps my fluids simple.
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Astrostart 2205
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MBRP "COOL DUAL" - Stainless w/cat delete
Prodigy Brake controller
Merchant Auto Competition Transmission w/transfer case pump rub upgrade and brace.

Cognito Pitman and Idler Arm braces, Stainless SD Tie Rod Sleeves
BOSS 9'2" Poly V Plow
Autometer Ultra Lite II's (boost, pyro, oil temp)
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:16 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LETHAL WEAPON View Post
OK then who makes the best/strong locker for my AAM 11.5 rear end because my truck did not come with any locker its just an open differential....how do i know because I checked the RPO codes in the glove box and the is no g80 on the list of codes
this might be alittle late and off topic, but didn't all duramax/allisons come from the factory as a package with a diff lock (G80) starting in 2006+???
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:39 PM   #46 (permalink)
1stdeuce
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No, the G80 isn't standard with a Dmax. Why would the General give away something they can charge for?
Chris
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:22 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Ok, finally got some down time to pull the cover and see what's in there...

At first everything looked good, but I rolled one tire ahead and this is what I found... a nice row of missing teeth! This explains the two teeth I've found on the drain plug, but I'm not sure what happened to the other several missing teeth...


A little more inspection revealed this too...


See the crack in the tooth cam about half way between the latch governor shaft and the diff case? Not so good... It misaligns pretty easily when you load the clutches, so there's probably a matching one on the other side that I just didn't see.

The governor gear teeth look good, so that's $125 that I won't have to spend. I have a theory that the busted teeth are from the shear clutch letting go, and not doing it's part to lock the diff, which puts a LOT of stress on those tiny little teeth, but I don't know for sure. I'm really hoping that the clutches are good, as they're $150 a set. I'm going to order the cam, and then take it down in a week when I can have it down long enough to pull it all apart and see what else might be wrong.

I'll put up more pics of what I find then.
Chris
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Last edited by 1stdeuce; 12-01-2012 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:57 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Disassmebly time!

Ok, slight change of plan. I found an Ebay G80 for $200, and so I bought it and tossed it in while I see what can be done for mine. Turns out the E-bay diff was in great shape, and it works fine, so I may not take it back out... I can now tell you that a 11.5 G80 with a ring gear on it is HEAVY!! I about blew a gasket benching it back into the axle! Here's a shot of my broken G80 on the left and the Ebay unit on the right.


I used the bearings that came with the new unit, and ran the adjusters right to where they were with the original diff and got .007" lash, which is exactly what my G80 had, so I think the machining is pretty good on these units! Having the adjusting collars instead of shims makes a diff swap REALLY easy too! Thanks AAM!

Now that that's done, it's time to take mine apart!!
You do need some special tools: HEAVY snapring pliers, a 4" long, 1/4" dia driver of some sort, and an 1/8" punch.
My sweet 1/4" driver: A road find screwdriver that I shortened the handle and ground the tip off:


I started by driving out the roll pin that holds the cross shaft in. Drive it out away from the ring gear, as that's the direction it is installed from.


Once the pin is you, you can push the cross shaft out and remove the center thrust block.
Then use the 1/8" punch to drive the two governors away from the ring gear also. This will press out their keepers, and you can remove the governors once they're free of the keepers.


Now you rotate the pinion gears and remove them and then the upper side gear and all it's clutches falls out of the case. (oops) I recommend not removing the opposite side gear and clutch pack, as there's not much that can go wrong with it. In fact, zip tie it in place so it doesn't fall out, because with the little keepers that hold the clutches, both of these assemblies are a pain to re-install.


Now that you have the cam side clutch mess out, you can use your giant snapring pliers to remove the snapring.


Then all the clutches lift off... Side gear to case clutches:


Cam gear clutches (and wavespring)


This is where my cam gear fell apart. It was actually in 3 pieces, with a visible crack, and with just a little pressure from me messing with it, it became 4...


Inspection of the clutches and governors shows that they're all in good shape. Well, the governor teeth are showing a little wear, but they seem serviceable. I'm going to order it a new cam gear for $70 and put it back together. I'll probably mess with the preload on the cam spring to see if i can get it to engage a little earlier too. I did that on my old Sonoma and liked it much better after that, though I overdid it by a little, so it would occasionally lock on really sharp turns.

So the gov lock is rebuildable as long a the case isn't split, which I have yet to see on the 11.5" unit. I'll put the part numbers in here later, as I can't find them at the moment. I think the trickiest part of re-assembly is going to be getting the four clutch keepers back in place... I did it on the other side when it fell out of the case, but the cam clutches are wider, and heavier, and it will probably take some tinkering.
Good luck!
Chris
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Last edited by 1stdeuce; 12-11-2012 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:11 PM   #49 (permalink)
DURAtotheMAX
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AWESOME post!!! Excellent pictures too. Thanks a bunch! This is going to be a huge help to all the guys out there (like myself) who actually like the G80 (when its working properly) better than any other locker/limited slip rear diff..

Maybe make this a sticky or move to DIY section?

ben
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:09 PM   #50 (permalink)
Krazy Ken
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Did any one ever come up with the part numbers to rebuild the 11.5" G80? I replaced one at work that blew up the governor but I looks like the side gears/case all lived. I would like to rebuild it with new clutches and the governor or what ever else it needs and have it ready to pop in my truck the next time I have it on the lift. Thanks.
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