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Old 10-31-2007, 11:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
steve511
 
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Ultimate D-Max On Board Air

Ultimate Duramax On Board Air
After about a year, tinkering is done!!! In the hopes of having other D-Max owners having an easier time then I did installing a system, I am documenting exactly how I did mine.

To start, a list of materials.

York (CCI) Compressor Model EF210L (Must have a 210 series, left or right suction OK). Still used on large trucks (Mack Freightliner etc. also used on older cars. Used can be found cheap in a junkyard)
Complete Service manual: http://www.ccicompressor.com/docs/CCIsrvice.pdf

Items obtained from Kilby enterprises:
Oil return kit : http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/oil-return.htm
Coalescing filter: http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/coalescing-filter.htm
Check Valve: http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/cv1.htm
Pressure Switch: http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/psw1.htm
Intake filter: http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/intake-filter.htm
Manifold (KE-AM3) : http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/air-manifold.htm
Safety Valve: http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/relief-valve.htm
Pressure Gauge: http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/gauges.htm
Flange fittings (Match to compressor) & 6 groove serpentine clutch : http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/compressors.htm

Air fittings for Nylon tubing (3/8) : http://www.fittingsandadapters.com/braspusconfi.html
Nylon tubing: Obtained on E-Bay
4.5 gallon air tank: http://www.offroadtoystore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=CAT-AirSystems-AirTanks
Assorted copper and bronze fittings from Home Depot.
For the electronics: High idle kit, 2 DEI 528T timed relays and 2 Bosch SPDT Relays


Obtain a idler pulley from GM and install it as it would for a 2nd alternator.
Also obtain a 136 belt (At least on my 2001)

I started off by obtaining a compressor. Mine came from a junkyard. It was off a 82 Volvo. York compressors are getting hard to find at junk yards, a truck yard may be a better choice. New ones from CCI are available also. I changed the clutch to a 6 groove and assembled the intake and exhaust fittings as well as the filter. From the compressor manual above, I fabricated a bracket out of 3/16 steel to fit the 4 holes on the bottom of the unit, and stick out slightly on the left side when viewed from the clutch. I also mounted a piece of 3/16 steel to the 2 holes beside the compressor then tacked them together in the desired position (be careful to allow access to the PS pump, and hood clearance). Once I fabricated the bracket, I fabricated 2 stiffener brackets that mount to the A/C compressor bolts. It help to have the belt first and fit the compressor location to a available belt size. If you cant get it perfect, go up to inch to large and shim the A/C compressor up to adjust. (You may need longer compressor mounting bolts)

I assembled the manifold, coalescing filter and check valve beside the auxillary battery. It is thru bolted to the firewall such that you can get nuts on the backside after removing the wiper control rods access cover. The check vave contains a mounting bracket. Fit the air chuck, pressure switch, blow off valve, gauge and fitting to tank in the proper locations before finalizing install. It is tight and must be done just right. Teflon tape all threads.
I mounted the air tank beside the right side frame rail.
Pipe in the coalescing filter (it comes with directions) and hose, and run a line to the air tank being careful to avoid any pich points or areas of potential abrasive wear.
Air out of the compressor gets very hot. I solved the problem of hose failure by building a simple copper radiator from ordinary copper pipe and fittings. Brace the loops with copper strapping as vibration will cause a metal fatigue failure if you dont.
I have included a control circuit diagram for wiring in the electrical circuitry to idle up when the compressor calls, and down when it shuts off. This will require a high idle modification from the instructions found on This site, slightly modified as per the circuit diagram.
Once everything is installed, check operation and check for leaks.
Additional sources of valuable info can be found in these links:
Oil blow-by modification for York Compressor : http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/york_oilmod.html
Nice basic system schematic (Off a Jeep) : http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-corner/project-cj7/project-cj7-onboard-air.htm

My system is installed on a 2001 2500HD, different years will surely have unique issues.
I air down my tires to drive the outer beach to surf fish here on LI. My 285s go from 16 PSI to 60 PSI in about 2 minutes and 30 seconds with the compressor. This is very similar to filling up with a shop compressor. I also keep a cheap impact gun and socket in my truck to remove lug nuts with air tools in an emergency. I found that 20W 50 oil with Lucas oil additive helps to control oil blow-by as the compressor was never designed to pump clean air, it was designed to pump refrigerant.

Sorry, I am not set up to fabricate Brackets although Kilby claims to have a D-Max set up coming soon.

This picture shows how the compressor is mounted from underneath and supported from above. Notice that the A/C compressor has been shimmed up to fine tune the belt length. Longer bolts were installed on the A/C compressor.




This picture shows the air manifold with coalescing filter, return kit, air chuck, gauge, pressure switch and saftey valve.




This picture shows the compressor set up with intake filter and radiator.




Air reserve tank mounted to frame rail.




Each application is slightly different, and i only posted this to give a detailed description of exactly how I did it on my specific truck. Good Luck!

Attached Files
File Type: pdf OBAEleSchematic.PDF (519.3 KB, 464 views)

Last edited by steve511; 10-31-2007 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 10-31-2007, 11:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
06bowtie_guy
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wow, you did alot of work but looks like a really sweet setup and clean. By any chance do you mind giving an estimate as to the money you spent to set this up??

On board air is sweet, i'd like to do it to my off-road truck.

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Old 11-01-2007, 12:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I just added everything up, and the known parts were $640.00. Add to that about $200 in incidentals.

It's hard to pinpoint as i went through a lot of trial and error.

Last edited by steve511; 11-01-2007 at 12:07 AM.
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Old 11-01-2007, 02:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
jjgmc
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Very nice write up and set up you have there. What is the diameter of the pulley on the compressor?
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Old 11-01-2007, 02:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
minisub
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Nice set up and nice write up. I hope this gets moved to DIY so I can find it if/when I ever get around to this project myself.
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Old 11-01-2007, 03:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
BudTX
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Great write up!
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Old 11-01-2007, 11:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I believe that the clutch is 9" diameter as per Kilby's web site.
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Old 11-03-2007, 02:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
huthuthut
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What kind of CFM does it flow? Is it really worth it to run EDCs? Im probably gonna run dual Viair 550 electrics into an 8 gallon or so bolted in place of the stock spare. Seems a hell of a lot easier than all of this! Looks SWEET though!
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Old 11-03-2007, 05:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
minisub
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According to Kilby, a York 210 will do 4 CFM @ 90 psi at 1200 RPM. IIRC, it will do close to 10 CFM at 90 psi at speed. These things put out a boatload of air....

What is an EDC?
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Old 11-03-2007, 06:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
huthuthut
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EDC = Engine Driven Compressor. Just seems like soooo much work - new pulley, custom brackets to mount that thing, new belt, etc, when you can just wire up 12V + and - and there ya go!


Last edited by huthuthut; 11-03-2007 at 06:31 PM.
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