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Old 01-26-2013, 12:09 AM   #61 (permalink)
jhanratt
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In answer to the above questions. No I can't measure actual vs. desired rail pressure. I have an obd2 scanner but it is not much use on this truck. This truck is bone stock and I am told they did not come with a lift pump. I will try to find some clear lines tomorrow.

Thanks again folks. I sure appreciate the help.
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:20 AM   #62 (permalink)
jhanratt
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10-4 on the luck with mechanics. I have been pulling wrenches since I was 13 but I can't keep up with the electronics and all of the testing equipment required. Nearly every time I have taken my car, truck, snowmobile, boat or whatever to the mechanic I have been unhappy with the results. Stripped hardware, rounded off bolts, mis-diagnosed problems sloppy workmanship etc. I took my work snowmobile in this week and they dropped it off the forklift! Then I picked it up and they left the belt guard sticking out the side of the hood and a pair of pliers wedged between the driven pulley and frame. Good thing I checked it out myself!

Sorry I'll cut my rant short NOW.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:38 AM   #63 (permalink)
jhanratt
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So I decided to go ahead and do the injectors. I am doing a full set of Bosch Remans from Merchant Automotive. I am going with the deluxe package which includes the high pressure lines, gaskets and a filter housing rebuild kit. I pulled all eight injectors and sent them in today. I had the corrosion issue which I know is common. Two of my injectors had o rings rolled and stretched out of the groove on the injector. All of my cups look good and stayed in place but the two with the faulty o ring have clean new gold coloured oil in them? My turbo outlet rubber has some tar like substance on the inside which extends about 6 inches into the hose.

1.) should I manually turn the engine over to make sure there is not a cylinder full of oil in the affected cylinders?
2.)Is the tar like substance in the turbo outlet normal?
3.)What is the best way to clean the sealing surface in the bottom of the injector cups?
4.)How clean do the injector cups need to be to get a good seal?
5.)Now that I see how fine the orifices are in the injectors I am a little worried. It would seem the me that a single speck of dirt introduced anywhere in re-assembly could blind the orifices. How surgically clean do you have to be when re-installing?
6.)Do the injectors have any kind of a screen or protection internally to protect themselves?

AND a huge thank you to the those who posted their injector replacements (photos and instructions!!).

By the way the GM TECHS who did my Glow plug relay did not install the wires back into the harness holders and they lost one of the washers. Time is money when you aren't doing it for yourself.

Thanks
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:24 PM   #64 (permalink)
chevyinlinesix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhanratt View Post
So I decided to go ahead and do the injectors. I am doing a full set of Bosch Remans from Merchant Automotive. I am going with the deluxe package which includes the high pressure lines, gaskets and a filter housing rebuild kit. I pulled all eight injectors and sent them in today. I had the corrosion issue which I know is common. Two of my injectors had o rings rolled and stretched out of the groove on the injector. All of my cups look good and stayed in place but the two with the faulty o ring have clean new gold coloured oil in them? My turbo outlet rubber has some tar like substance on the inside which extends about 6 inches into the hose.

1.) should I manually turn the engine over to make sure there is not a cylinder full of oil in the affected cylinders?
2.)Is the tar like substance in the turbo outlet normal?
3.)What is the best way to clean the sealing surface in the bottom of the injector cups?
4.)How clean do the injector cups need to be to get a good seal?
5.)Now that I see how fine the orifices are in the injectors I am a little worried. It would seem the me that a single speck of dirt introduced anywhere in re-assembly could blind the orifices. How surgically clean do you have to be when re-installing?
6.)Do the injectors have any kind of a screen or protection internally to protect themselves?

AND a huge thank you to the those who posted their injector replacements (photos and instructions!!).

By the way the GM TECHS who did my Glow plug relay did not install the wires back into the harness holders and they lost one of the washers. Time is money when you aren't doing it for yourself.

Thanks
1. While this won't hurt anything, it is extremely unlikely that there is any excessive oil in there. It may be residue from original installation, or perhaps just leak-by from the O-rings.

2. Yes somewhat, the tar-like substance is likely the result of small amounts of oil from the turbocharger. Posting a picture of it would tell us more though.

3. It is my opinion, that pulling all of the cups is the best thing to do. I cleaned the inside of the injector cups, outside, along with the mating cylinder head surface with a few different sizes of gun cleaning barrel brushes. I just bought a whole gun cleaning pack, and used appropriate sized brushes, attached to the provided rods, in a drill.

4. I make sure any and every sealing surface on an engine, is as clean as humanly possible. In the matter of injector sleeves to cylinder head (should you choose to remove them), it is imperative for the surface to be free of oil and contaminates. This means final cleaning with "Final Wipe" which is a product designed to remove all contaminates during vehicle painting. This is the way I do it, if it's not perfect, it's not right.

5. They have to be as clean as you can possibly do. I flush my lines with diesel fuel generally, then blow them out with air from a filtered air hose line. I do a final "rinse" just before installation as well. Any hose nipples or fittings are cleaned and blown off with air as well. Make sure you do not use any type of sealers in places that may come into contact with fuel, such as Teflonİ or RTV. I keep all parts covered or sealed in Ziplocİ bags. If you can see a particle, it is not clean enough for the injector. Also clean the return line banjo fittings and sealing surfaces just as much. In addition, I clean the copper seals for the injectors as well, EVERYTHING clean!

6. I cannot say with 100% certainty, but I believe the only protection they have is the cross-looking thing at the injector's inlet port.

Some people might say it's overkill, but I would rather guarantee a perfect seal rather than end up with problems later.
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1987 GMC Sierra 1500HD, RC LB, 12 bolt 3.08 posi, built 383 stroker, TH400, 13" towing converter, 26mpg highway, 22 city, daily driver/drag truck. Swapping in a built TT Duramax/Allison. Looking for about 700RWHP
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:03 PM   #65 (permalink)
07keo02
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They have what is known as an "edge filter", I don't know exactly how that is set up though.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:22 PM   #66 (permalink)
jhanratt
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Photos of the "tar" in my turbo outlet hose

I have everything thoroughly cleaned with paint thinner and varsol. I will give it a final wipe down with laquer thinner before I re-assemble. I decided not to remove my injector cups because they really were pretty clean and I am not sure if I would do more damage trying to get them out. I used kim wipes wrapped around a thin screw driver tip.

I am attaching photos of the inlet and outlet of my turbo outlet hose. I would like to know if the "tar" like substance is normal.

Everything else was straight forward. Just a LOT of cleaning time. I wish I had shampoed the engine and pressure washed it before I started.

Thank You and I will post back and let you know if this fixed my problem.

Jeff
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:50 PM   #67 (permalink)
jhanratt
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It Lives!!

So I finsished my injector replacement today including new high pressure lines and all new gaskets. I installed a rebuild kit on my fuel filter housing and installed a section of clear 1/2" hose between the filter head and the CP3. No bubbles! I used GreenLine 1700 polyurethane which is rated for gas and solvents to 90 psi. It does not mention diesel but I assume solvent and gas means diesel too? I plan to leave it in so I can see at a glance if I have any air leaks before the CP3. Any issue with this?

Still looking for advice on the tar like substance in my charged air line post turbo. (photos in the previous post) I will stop worrying about it unless you all tell me otherwise.

The truck runs like a champ and starts without excessive crank time even when warm. I noticed right away that the exhaust was not as stinky as it was. I will watch my dipstick and make sure I am not making oil but it all looks good so far!

So the answer is NO I DID NOT NEED AN ECM!
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:11 PM   #68 (permalink)
chevyinlinesix
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It has been a while, but that looks normal to me. Perhaps someone else can chime in and add their opinion in too.

As for the fuel line, I'm certain it will be fine for a while, indefinitely though I'm not sure. The technical data sheet for that material lists only moderate effects of diesel fuel on it, so it does deteriorate it's properties, but how long will it last I'm 100% sure.

Page two of this .pdf file outlines "conditional or questionable; moderate to severe effect on hose compound, may be suitable for limited applications."

Perhaps calling or E-mailing them with your intended application, is the best bet here. My guess is the hose will harden some.

Really glad you got your truck fixed and it's running good Thanks for posting back with your results too
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2001 GMC Sierra 2500HD, EC LB, 2WD, Duramax, 30mpg highway.
1996 Chevy Silverado 2500HD, RC LB, 4x4, 14 bolt FF 3.73 posi, Suncoast 4L80E, completely custom engine, true dual 4" exhaust
1987 GMC Sierra 1500HD, RC LB, 12 bolt 3.08 posi, built 383 stroker, TH400, 13" towing converter, 26mpg highway, 22 city, daily driver/drag truck. Swapping in a built TT Duramax/Allison. Looking for about 700RWHP
1995 Chevy 3500HD, RC, DRW, 13' for looong box, Dana 80 4.63 gears, double framed, 15,000 GVWR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodis22
Quote this
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:41 PM   #69 (permalink)
07keo02
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Do you have the california emissions lb7 with an EGR?
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EFI Live, Dual Nictane adapters with Cat water seperator and 2 micron filter, Raptor 150 lift pump with check valve bypass, Fumoto Valve, Stock straight pipe, SBC Dual disc, M/A Engine Mount and Trans Mount, MA Pump Rub Kit, Profab Intake Horn, Roadmaster active suspension, Moog pitman/idler/support, Cognito support kit, Intake heater delete, Kennedy high idle and airbox mod
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:50 PM   #70 (permalink)
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I am glad you didn't buy the ecm and that the injectors fixed your issues.
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