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Duramax First Generation: 2001-2004 (LB7) Discuss the first generation (2001-2004 LB7) of the 6.6L Duramax diesel engine & associated components. Engine related discussion ONLY.

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Old 03-11-2012, 09:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
BornReady6.5
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Harmonic balancer bolt

Need some help and advise. I'm doing a water pump on my truck and cannot get the crank/harmonic balancer bolt loose. I have the proper 12 point 36 mm bolt I borrowed from a friend. My problem is i have a zf and I can't get figure out how to hold the crank shaft still. It keeps spinning. There is no inspection covers to use the holder tool or get a pry bar in to hold the flywheel. I've broke 2 craftsman 1/2 breaker bars by using the frame and starter method. I've just had back surgery last month so its difficult for me to exort a lot of force on this bolt. If I could figure out how to hold it still, I could get a cheated bar on it. Any suggestions? Why isn't putting the transmission in 1st gear and using a cheated bar, holding the crankshaft still? what am I missing? Any help ideas, help, or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
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1986 V1500 4x4, 6.2, ATI Turbo, 700R4, 4" lift. 35" Cooper STT's.

SOLD-1996 GMC ext cab LB 4x4, NV4500, 6.5 turbo vin F. Bone stock.

SOLD-2001 GMC LB7, ZF6, SouthBend SMF single disk, Hypertech tow tune, 4x4 crewcabLB. Shaeffers diesel treat every tank... 125,000+miles on original injectors. Nicktane CAT filter head. Dual CAT filters.

1989 1 ton dually flatbed. 6.2, GM4 turbo, TH400, Flatbed. I Paid $200 for it 5 years ago and I drive it like a rental car everyday....undergoing NV4500 soon.

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Old 03-13-2012, 12:19 AM   #2 (permalink)
btexpress
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Yes, use the Lisle 22100 Flywheel Locking Tool for 6.6L Duramax, it is about $32.00
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
BornReady6.5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btexpress View Post
Yes, use the Lisle 22100 Flywheel Locking Tool for 6.6L Duramax, it is about $32.00
Yes. That is my reason for posting this thread. I have access to the tool but its for guys with the Allison. I have the ZF6 and no access plate.

Im guessing I either have to take the starter out or remove the radiator and use a impact? Any suggestions from the ZF guys? Whats the best way?
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1986 V1500 4x4, 6.2, ATI Turbo, 700R4, 4" lift. 35" Cooper STT's.

SOLD-1996 GMC ext cab LB 4x4, NV4500, 6.5 turbo vin F. Bone stock.

SOLD-2001 GMC LB7, ZF6, SouthBend SMF single disk, Hypertech tow tune, 4x4 crewcabLB. Shaeffers diesel treat every tank... 125,000+miles on original injectors. Nicktane CAT filter head. Dual CAT filters.

1989 1 ton dually flatbed. 6.2, GM4 turbo, TH400, Flatbed. I Paid $200 for it 5 years ago and I drive it like a rental car everyday....undergoing NV4500 soon.

Member #48 of the "Brotherhood of
Handshakers" Club

member #531 of The 3500 Dually Club
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
oldblacksmoker
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prop it against the frame and bump the starter. Be careful, but redneck methods do work. You can also put it on a long breaker propped against the floor.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
oldblacksmoker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldblacksmoker View Post
prop it against the frame and bump the starter. Be careful, but redneck methods do work. You can also put it on a long breaker propped against the floor.
I just know I'm going to get flamed for this.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
oldblacksmoker
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Use a stronger breaker too.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
BornReady6.5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldblacksmoker View Post
prop it against the frame and bump the starter. Be careful, but redneck methods do work. You can also put it on a long breaker propped against the floor.
Thats is how I broke my craftsman 1/2 drive ratchet and 1 craftsman breaker bar. Then I stopped because I didnt want to break a borrowed socket. I now have my own socket, Im scared to do it again?

Here is a picture or two of what just arrived in the mail. One is 1/2" drive and the other is 3/4" drive.


Im just debating how to proceed from here. This is the first time Ive ever wished I had a Allison, LOL.
Attached Thumbnails
Harmonic balancer bolt-imag2619.jpg   Harmonic balancer bolt-imag2620.jpg  
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1986 V1500 4x4, 6.2, ATI Turbo, 700R4, 4" lift. 35" Cooper STT's.

SOLD-1996 GMC ext cab LB 4x4, NV4500, 6.5 turbo vin F. Bone stock.

SOLD-2001 GMC LB7, ZF6, SouthBend SMF single disk, Hypertech tow tune, 4x4 crewcabLB. Shaeffers diesel treat every tank... 125,000+miles on original injectors. Nicktane CAT filter head. Dual CAT filters.

1989 1 ton dually flatbed. 6.2, GM4 turbo, TH400, Flatbed. I Paid $200 for it 5 years ago and I drive it like a rental car everyday....undergoing NV4500 soon.

Member #48 of the "Brotherhood of
Handshakers" Club

member #531 of The 3500 Dually Club

Last edited by BornReady6.5; 03-13-2012 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
btexpress
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I would use the impact (black) one first and get a Snap-on or Mac 1" breaker bar, I don't think the Craftsmen is up to the task.
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2011 GMC 3500 Denali HD, Banks Exhaust From DPF Back, Stock Tune, Pullrite 22K Super Rail 5th Wheel Hitch. Rosen Navigation Radio, Tailgate camera view moved from mirror to Navigation display, Pace Edwards Electric Bedlocker Tonneau Cover, with a 37 gallon Transfer Flow tank with Trax2 under it's canister, Chrome wheel opening moldings, Mirror mod, with forward led marker and turn signals and puddle lights. Member 993 of the Dually Club.

45' Dutchman Voltage Toy Hauler with side and rear view cameras to Nav. display, Kodiac Hydraulic disc brakes, Mor Ryde suspension and pin box.

2003 Silverado 2500 HD, Banks Exhaust from turbo back with exhaust brake, Late model mirrors with forward led marker and turn signals and puddle lights,
Pullrite 22K Super Fifth hitch with Super Rails, Brake Smart controller, Air horn mod, HID's and LED's
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
BornReady6.5
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Got it. Thanks for all the tips. GM Dang sure didn't want anyone stealing that thing. That bolt was tight.
__________________
1986 V1500 4x4, 6.2, ATI Turbo, 700R4, 4" lift. 35" Cooper STT's.

SOLD-1996 GMC ext cab LB 4x4, NV4500, 6.5 turbo vin F. Bone stock.

SOLD-2001 GMC LB7, ZF6, SouthBend SMF single disk, Hypertech tow tune, 4x4 crewcabLB. Shaeffers diesel treat every tank... 125,000+miles on original injectors. Nicktane CAT filter head. Dual CAT filters.

1989 1 ton dually flatbed. 6.2, GM4 turbo, TH400, Flatbed. I Paid $200 for it 5 years ago and I drive it like a rental car everyday....undergoing NV4500 soon.

Member #48 of the "Brotherhood of
Handshakers" Club

member #531 of The 3500 Dually Club
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Old 04-22-2012, 12:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
ZFMax
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I just finished changing my water pump too ... all I did was put the trans in 6th and put a couple wheel chocks behind the back tires and also set the parking brake. I loosened the balancer bolt with a 36" 3/4 drive torque wrench and a 1-7/16" 12 point socket. It really wasn't that bad. Loosen your flywheel bolts sometime if you want to see tight.

The torque spec on that balancer bolt is 278ft-lbs, that number is straight out of the factory service manual. It also says to put a thin coat of oil on the inside of the hub and also on the bolt threads.

The tightening procedure for the flywheel bolts by comparison is 58ft-lbs, followed by 60 degrees (one wrench flat), followed by 60 degrees. That second 60 degree tightening is just unbelievable, especially from under the truck where it's hard to get leverage, and with a makeshift flywheel locking device (read: big screwdriver and vice grips). At least with the balancer bolt you can climb up on the front end and put your feet against something and pull.
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