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Duramax First Generation: 2001-2004 (LB7) Discuss the first generation (2001-2004 LB7) of the 6.6L Duramax diesel engine & associated components. Engine related discussion ONLY. is the premier Duramax Diesel Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
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Old 04-22-2012, 11:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by oldblacksmoker View Post
prop it against the frame and bump the starter. Be careful, but redneck methods do work. You can also put it on a long breaker propped against the floor.
That is the only way to do it but make sure the brake line isnt under the breaker bar cuz it will crush it flat lol. I didnt do it but know somebody who did.

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Old 11-21-2012, 11:23 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Glad I stumbled onto this here.... I have everything out for my water pump except the crank bolt... Was getting ready to head to lowes to get the proper size socket and was searchig for the size when I found this. Thanks for the thread! This will definately make it easier for me as I too have the ZF.
BornReady.... I think you had a small brain fart when putting it into 1st gear that I am sure you figured out on your own, lol! For anyine else that might stumble onto this thread with the ZF option, 1st gear has the highest torque advantage for the engine to spin freely so therefore it is easiest to turn the crank by hand too thus moving the truck forward a small amount through turning the driveline. Putting it into 6th givees the lowest torque advantage to the engine thus making it harder to spin the crank by hand as when you do, each engine revolution will move the truck a greater distance than 1st gear. "More work is being done".
It can be easy for us manual guys to get this backwards as we are used to throwing it into 1st as "Park". What to remember is that just the opposite is happening.... Instead of needing to keep the truck from rolling, your needing to keep the engine from turning.

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Old 11-21-2012, 04:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I dropped the starter and rotated the engine to find the open hole and inserted a socket for the wedging of the flywheel. Then I got the 36mm socket and a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter and promptly broke 2 breaker bars! I finally got p.o. enough that I welded the socket to a 4' by 1" piece of sucker rod and that sob got loose then!

I talked to a mechanic last week at a chevy house and he said that him and one other guy have replaced so many of these pumps that they can do it in about 35 minutes! Thats how to make money when working for Flat Rate scales!!! He did say that they made a couple of "special million dollar tools" for some of these projects..... my kinda guy!
Chevy 02 D/A - LT, Regular Juice - daily drive at level 4 - Tow in level 2, CAT fuel filter -Post OEM, fiberglass air deflector for transmission cooler, Autometer EGT, ODLO switch, 4" Flow through muffler with 4" resonator using 3.5" OEM exhaust pipe, Stack Sealing, Tuff Skin Spray in BedLliner, OEM airfilter with ghetto CAI box, The Max Power Light Mod, BlueOx's TJ Loungers, Fumoto valve, Custom Designed Million Dollar Running Board Fuel tanks - Million Dollar under seat storage, Milion Dollar Tool Boxes, Custom Designed Million Dollar Bumper with Milemarker 12k hydraulic winch, and now with LB7 Duramax Fast Idle Installed even if it is 11 years too late!!! Now with the latest Million Dollar Spare Tire Electric Lift. And now with the new Million Dollar Rear Bumper!!
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Remember the bolt has to re-torqued to 265 lbs. If it comes loose-- that will FU your day-!
2004.5 LLY - EC-LB- LT - 64 gallon Aero tank, CAI, de-badged, fender vents, MikeL-6 spd-Transgo, tow mirrors, gauges- Putnam XDR, shell, BU camera, Cabin Filters, GPS, Bluetooth, Sirius, PPE, LBZ-MP, studs, Head gaskets
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