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Old 04-15-2009, 03:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
Duc
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P0093 soon to be fixed

About 2 months ago I purchased a 01 2500HD truck w/160,000 from a dealership to use as a tow truck for my offroad rig. According to the vin data at chevy it never had injectors done but did have the injector pump at 80k and something else minor done. Little did I know about the hidden demon it had in store for me. Once in a blue moon while really getting on the truck I would throw a engine code of P0093. Thinking it was a fuel filter, I changed that out since it was a new truck to me. The engine code didnt come back. Fast forward to a week ago when I borrowed a gooseneck trailer to pick up a rig that a friend was buying in a town 3 hours away, I threw the code left and right when going up hills but never on flat ground when empty. Thankfully we never made it out of town before the issues started since the truck will go into limp mode at 25 mph.

Today I just dropped the truck off with the dealership with the trailer so they could test it under load. Yep all of my injectors failed when under load. 5600 dollars to replace the injectors but I have the extend warranty so I only have to cover 100 dollars. Due to the cost of the repair the warranty company is sending a rep over to verfy the damages but I dont mind that since it was 5600. Dam shame I dont have my efi live till friday to log the errors so I could compare the data once they are done. Glad this popped up before I recieve my trailer at the end of april and the need for road trips with the offroad rig.


So recap in the end

Warranty($1500 for 12/12,000) - $300(window regulator) + $100(co-pay) -$5600(injectors) + $100(co-pay) = $-4200 insurance company lost on me so far. 10 months to go.


So have a update by friday and hopefully a copy of the data from the dealership.

Last edited by Duc; 04-15-2009 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 04-15-2009, 05:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
sfcjones
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Sounds like you did good by the extended warranty...
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Old 04-15-2009, 06:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
Duc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfcjones View Post
Sounds like you did good by the extended warranty...
I got freaking lucky that I got the service. And I cant blame the dealership since I think the prior owners recieved these errors and just had them cleared after the cost estimate for the repairs then traded the truck in. I havent seen a dealership yet that can do load testing on a truck or that would think to do one.
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Old 06-14-2009, 08:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Update

-3 injectors were replaced by the dealership 1 code continued

-return to dealership 1 where they said the injector pump was bad. decided to take to a dealership 2 ince injector pump isnt covered.

-dealership 2 conviced the warranty company I had crack injector and since the test is 1800 dollars and that according to GM policy they dont do the test when fuel pressure fails. They just replace the injectors instead of wasting time. So the remaining 6 injectors were replaced. yes 6 injectors since the dealership 1 only did 2 and not 3 but charged the warranty company for 3. Huge paperwork mess for the new dealership and not me. Truck is still throwing code.

-dealership 2 wants to replace the first two injectors on GM's dime but I have to find a free day and if the problem still exist then the tech mentioned finding me a free FPR. But I will believe that when I have the FPR in my hand.


Too add to all the fun, the truck had a rock thrown thru the passenger window at college but nothing was stolen by some luck. Now the truck as a new viper car alarm and remote start. So currently the truck is still freaking worthless for towing.


Where is a good spot to buy either a new injector pump or FPR?
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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you can test the injection pump in about a small hour by yourself to see if the pumps bad. You only need about an hour and a few small tools
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Copy from my other post:

easy way to test it. the way the book says is to check the return side of the fuel pump.

Supplies needed:
1ft 3/8 transparent hose
One 3/8 double ended hose barb
2 hose clamps
Pliers
15mm socket
3/8 ratchet

Take the belt off the A/c compessor, the take the a/c compressor off of its location and place aside. The with a pliers remove the return line from the fuel pump, the return line is the only fuel line you can reach. Install the transparent hose on the fuel pump and use the double ended barb on one end of the fuel line (which you removed) and the other on the transparent hose. Its like your splicing the transparent hose between the fuel pump and the oem fuel return line. Loop the line in a circle so you can see it without kinking the line. Put the a/c compressor back on the the belt. Start engine and watch to see if the pump is pushing bubbles out of it. There should be NONE, if you let it idle and go to WOT you might see a few small bubbles, thats normal. Thats what the OEM factory manuals say to test the pump.

I just replaced my pump yesterday because i was getting the p0093 code while towing on factory power, my pump tested bad because it was kicking out a lot of bubbles even at idle and tons when it went from idle to WOT. I even replaced the FPR to see if that fixed it first before replacing the pump.
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Last edited by nmband13; 06-14-2009 at 09:03 PM.
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
Duc
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Was about to post a copy of that thread.

Any cheap good places to buy from?
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Last edited by Duc; 06-14-2009 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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pm sent
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
Duc
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Manage do to the test today. There was extremely small bubbles the whole time, tiny stream, but that could have been caused by anything but didnít see any more when revving the even up to 3000 rpm. Fuel pressure went up to 123 MPa when revving the engine. Almost makes me think I had no air bubbles due to size of the bubbles and the amount. Maybe a loose connection on the hose clamps.

Here is also the efi live data that was recorded during it.
Attached Files
File Type: zip fuel pressure test no air bubbles.zip (7.5 KB, 18 views)
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Old 06-23-2009, 07:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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if you have air bubbles like you said, swap the hose between the fuel filter and the y adapter and see if you have bubbles, if you dont then its the pump and it needs to be replaced.

I had small bubbles at idle and lots of them while wot runs, still had the 23k psi(160mpa)

I JUST NOTICED YOU SAID 123 MPA, THATS ONLT 17600PSI. Not good!

I had only a max of 17600psi(123mpa) when demanding 23k psi(160mpa) with a tech II. Then I replaced the FPR and went to 23kpsi(160mpa) But I Did not Have The Flow I Needed To Keep 23000psi(160mpa) In The Fuel Rail.
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