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Old 03-19-2009, 04:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
d-max19
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Replacing Fuel Pressure Regulator - need info

I have a 2004 duramax w/ the lb7. had it diagnosed and was told bad fuel pressure regulator. i bought the part and am going to replace it myself. first i am just wondering about how long this job takes replacing the regulator? also i have directions but do you have to bleed the fuel system before or after it is installed? any info appreciated.
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Old 03-20-2009, 07:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
pitts211
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I would like to know too im getting ready to change mine too.
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Old 03-21-2009, 11:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Use the search engine it's a very powerful tool
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Old 03-21-2009, 11:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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does this help?

Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement
<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com/si/showDoc.do?docSyskey=826306&pubCellSyskey=63758&pu bObjSyskey=826306&from=sm&laborOpCode=&cellId=6375 8#ss1-826306">Removal Procedure


  1. <LI type=1>Remove the air intake pipe. Refer to Air Intake Pipe Replacement . <LI type=1>Disconnect the air conditioning (A/C) compressor clutch electrical connector. <LI type=1>Disconnect the A/C cut out switch electrical connector. <LI type=1>Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 6.6L. <LI type=1>Remove the A/C compressor bolts.
  2. Move the A/C compressor with the hoses attached to the right side of the engine compartment.
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Old 03-21-2009, 11:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
rgullett83
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Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement
<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com/si/showDoc.do?docSyskey=826306&pubCellSyskey=63758&pu bObjSyskey=826306&from=sm&laborOpCode=&cellId=6375 8#ss1-826306">Removal Procedure


  1. <LI type=1>Remove the air intake pipe. Refer to Air Intake Pipe Replacement . <LI type=1>Disconnect the air conditioning (A/C) compressor clutch electrical connector. <LI type=1>Disconnect the A/C cut out switch electrical connector. <LI type=1>Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 6.6L. <LI type=1>Remove the A/C compressor bolts. <LI type=1>Move the A/C compressor with the hoses attached to the right side of the engine compartment.


    <LI type=1>Remove the water outlet tube. Refer to Water Outlet Tube Replacement in Engine Cooling. <LI type=1>Disconnect both main harness electrical connectors.


    <LI type=1>Remove both main harness electrical connector to bracket bolts (1). <LI type=1>Remove the main harnesses from the bracket.


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor electrical connector (1).


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the barometric pressure (BARO) sensor electrical connector (1)


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the glow plug relay electrical connectors (1, 2, 3).


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the fuel rail temperature sensor electrical connector (1).


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the left front fuel injector electrical connector (1).


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the left rear fuel injector electrical connector (1).


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the fuel pressure regulator electrical connector (1).


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the oil level sensor harness electrical connector (1).


    <LI type=1>Remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose from both valve covers.


    <LI type=1>Reposition the injection pump inlet clamp. <LI type=1>Remove the injection pump inlet hose from the fuel feed distribution (leak-off) block. Reposition the hose.


    <LI type=1>Clean the fuel pressure regulator and high pressure injection pump thoroughly with solvent, such as GM P/N 12377981 (Canadian P/N 10953463) or equivalent. <LI type=1>Using compressed air, thoroughly blow dry the regulator and pump. <LI type=1>Remove the 3 fuel pressure regulator screws (1) using a T25 TORX®.


    <LI type=1>Remove the fuel pressure regulator (1).
  2. If dirt or debris is found in the bore or seating surfaces of the fuel injection pump, perform the following:
    Place a clean rag over the bore on order to collect the excess fuel.
    Bump the engine over in order to flush any debris out of the regulator bore.
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Old 03-22-2009, 12:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks that should be very helpful
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:16 AM   #7 (permalink)
Mecham444
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What happens if you let this problem continue and not fix it any time soon?
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Old 04-19-2009, 11:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
dmaxfamilyman
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I'd have to say replacing the FPR was one of the most difficult things I've done on a vehicle. Took me 10 hrs and I was hurting afterwards. I wasn't able to torque the bolts on the FPR because I don't own a Inch Pounds Torque Wrench (or whatever it is called...I've got a Foot Lbs). Well I've got a new respect for guys that are doing this stuff...I thought I might replace the injectors myself next time but now I have second thoughts. Maybe I just need to buy a newer Duramax.....
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Old 04-19-2009, 11:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
SMITH6.6
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It a very easy thing to replace if you have a longer torx with a 1/4 drive just pull the snorkel off the turbo and you can get at it I do them all the time.
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Old 04-20-2009, 12:53 AM   #10 (permalink)
dmaxfamilyman
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I would have to say that if I had the longer torx it would have been much easier as the hardest part was getting the short torx on the bolts. I started down the official path of disconnecting all the electrical but then I stopped and just removed the intake all the way down to the turbo. Do you usually remove the intake horn (I think that is what it is called)? If I had the right torx it would have been much easier.
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