Diesel Place banner

Replacing Fuel Pressure Regulator - need info

77K views 33 replies 25 participants last post by  bradleydb34 
#1 ·
I have a 2004 duramax w/ the lb7. had it diagnosed and was told bad fuel pressure regulator. i bought the part and am going to replace it myself. first i am just wondering about how long this job takes replacing the regulator? also i have directions but do you have to bleed the fuel system before or after it is installed? any info appreciated.
 
#4 ·
does this help?;)

Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement
<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com/si/showDoc.do?docSyskey=826306&pubCellSyskey=63758&pubObjSyskey=826306&from=sm&laborOpCode=&cellId=63758#ss1-826306">Removal Procedure




  1. <LI type=1>Remove the air intake pipe. Refer to Air Intake Pipe Replacement . <LI type=1>Disconnect the air conditioning (A/C) compressor clutch electrical connector. <LI type=1>Disconnect the A/C cut out switch electrical connector. <LI type=1>Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 6.6L. <LI type=1>Remove the A/C compressor bolts.
  2. Move the A/C compressor with the hoses attached to the right side of the engine compartment.
 
#5 ·
Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement
<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com/si/showDoc.do?docSyskey=826306&pubCellSyskey=63758&pubObjSyskey=826306&from=sm&laborOpCode=&cellId=63758#ss1-826306">Removal Procedure




  1. <LI type=1>Remove the air intake pipe. Refer to Air Intake Pipe Replacement . <LI type=1>Disconnect the air conditioning (A/C) compressor clutch electrical connector. <LI type=1>Disconnect the A/C cut out switch electrical connector. <LI type=1>Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 6.6L. <LI type=1>Remove the A/C compressor bolts. <LI type=1>Move the A/C compressor with the hoses attached to the right side of the engine compartment.


    <LI type=1>Remove the water outlet tube. Refer to Water Outlet Tube Replacement in Engine Cooling. <LI type=1>Disconnect both main harness electrical connectors.


    <LI type=1>Remove both main harness electrical connector to bracket bolts (1). <LI type=1>Remove the main harnesses from the bracket.


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor electrical connector (1).


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the barometric pressure (BARO) sensor electrical connector (1)


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the glow plug relay electrical connectors (1, 2, 3).


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the fuel rail temperature sensor electrical connector (1).


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the left front fuel injector electrical connector (1).


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the left rear fuel injector electrical connector (1).


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the fuel pressure regulator electrical connector (1).


    <LI type=1>Disconnect the oil level sensor harness electrical connector (1).


    <LI type=1>Remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose from both valve covers.


    <LI type=1>Reposition the injection pump inlet clamp. <LI type=1>Remove the injection pump inlet hose from the fuel feed distribution (leak-off) block. Reposition the hose.


    <LI type=1>Clean the fuel pressure regulator and high pressure injection pump thoroughly with solvent, such as GM P/N 12377981 (Canadian P/N 10953463) or equivalent. <LI type=1>Using compressed air, thoroughly blow dry the regulator and pump. <LI type=1>Remove the 3 fuel pressure regulator screws (1) using a T25 TORX®.


    <LI type=1>Remove the fuel pressure regulator (1).
  2. If dirt or debris is found in the bore or seating surfaces of the fuel injection pump, perform the following:
    Place a clean rag over the bore on order to collect the excess fuel.
    Bump the engine over in order to flush any debris out of the regulator bore.​
 
#8 ·
I'd have to say replacing the FPR was one of the most difficult things I've done on a vehicle. Took me 10 hrs and I was hurting afterwards. I wasn't able to torque the bolts on the FPR because I don't own a Inch Pounds Torque Wrench (or whatever it is called...I've got a Foot Lbs). Well I've got a new respect for guys that are doing this stuff...I thought I might replace the injectors myself next time but now I have second thoughts. Maybe I just need to buy a newer Duramax.....
 
#9 ·
It a very easy thing to replace if you have a longer torx with a 1/4 drive just pull the snorkel off the turbo and you can get at it I do them all the time.
 
#10 ·
I would have to say that if I had the longer torx it would have been much easier as the hardest part was getting the short torx on the bolts. I started down the official path of disconnecting all the electrical but then I stopped and just removed the intake all the way down to the turbo. Do you usually remove the intake horn (I think that is what it is called)? If I had the right torx it would have been much easier.
 
#11 ·
It took me about 3 hours, drinking beer and all. I think Shaun is right about the longer torx if I remember right. 1/4 " drive and a swivel too i think. They are not the easiest bolts to get at, but not that hard an operation. The hardest part is getting comfortable once you got your hands down in there.
 
#12 · (Edited)
This is some great info guys. Mines acting up and I went to check at the dealer and they want $1000 to replace it. Even if it takes me a whole day, its worth it to me to do it myself.

Does anybody have any pics of the install other than the directions already posted?
 
#19 ·
#20 ·
What are the symptons when they start to fail?
 
#21 ·
apparently a lopey idle. mine does it and thats what everybody says it is, i keep procrastinating changing it out
 
#23 ·
I wouldn't worry about it if the lopey idle is not measurable on the tach....My mechanic told me not to worry about mine unless it is really bad.
 
#24 ·
Well thats good to know thanks.
 
#28 · (Edited)
I just finished this a few days ago, and a couple notes. Both diesel bombers and the factory plan have you remove way more stuff than is needed. I did not unplug hardly any electrical. I pulled the air intake (box to turbo), moved the a/c compressor, and two rubber air hoses across the top of the engine near the turbo. Remove the turbo horn, the FPR is just below it. You'll need a new gasket upon reinstall, I used a gasket maker product. If you remove the upper coolant tube, you can get to two of the Turbo horn bolts with ratchet extensions/ wobble sockets. The third is a pain and use either a ratchet type box wrench, or if you have one of the "flexible" cable type extensions, you can get to it with that.

I also did remove the upper metal coolant tube, you lose very little coolant, but get considerably more room to work. You can either take it apart at the thermostat housing, with tube attatched, which gives you the most room, or pull just the tube where it plugs into the rear the thermostat housing area. This metal coolant pipe if secured by a clamp on one end and an o-ring and single bolt where it goes into the housing. You will need a new gasket or o ring to put it back together, depending which path you choose.

I removed one end each of the fuel lines in the fpr area and this allowed me to tuck them out of the way enough to work.

For the torx bolt themselves, read all the fpr posts here on tips and tricks, and tools. Normal 1/4 socket and short torx bit will not work, there is a picture on this site showing the clearance issues. You can't get a solid straight purchase with the bit in the screw and risk stripping them. I used a combination of all the tricks found here.

I also found a #25 torx screwdriver at TSC that has a hex shaped shaft instead of round. I cut the handle off, and the shaft fit into both a 1/4 socket to bit driver adapter, and through the middle of a 1/4 ratcheting type flat wench. If I did it again, I would have gotten 3 of them, and cut them to different lengths to use in the various situations you will find yourself in when removing / installing the bolts.

Good luck!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top