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Old 12-05-2011, 07:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
catman3126
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Head gasket test

Just wondering if anyone has used the bottle test to check if te head gaskets are bad? where you cap off the filler with a plug and have a hose on it and run the hose down into a jar of water and see if it makes any bubbles after awhile of running?
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2005 2500HD dmax, CCSB, 4" exhaust afe intake, egr blocker plate. EFI LIVE V2
LBZ mouthpiece and custom intake piping, stage 4 built trans, Air dog 165 on demand. Varible MAF control, Danville 2.6 66MM, STG II Billet turbo. Pro Fab manifolds and Up pipes, 3"bridge and intercooler pipes.

1984 CJ7 Powered by a 2000' LS1 5.7L

2008 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic. 96CI. Black.
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
mtl_dmax
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You don't really need to do that, just leave the cap off the overflow and look for bubbles with the engine running.

Even better, pull the glow plugs, add 100-150 psi air into the hole and watch for bubbles in the overflow.
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2005 Silverado EC/SB, LLY, 4WD, EFI DSP5 V2 (Idaho Rob at ATP), Edge CTS w/ EGT probe, LML Exhaust Manifold, PPE shimmed FPRV, Banks LBZ Ram Air Intake, RDL EGR Delete, LBZ Turbo Mouthpiece (w/ blocked resonator & rerouted PCV), Kennedy twin lift pumps w/ megafilter, Corsa 4" Turbo Back 304 SS Exhaust, Mike L tranny cooler, EXAXT Steering System, Redhead Power Steering Box w/ Amsoil PS fluid, Green Torsion Keys, Allison Deep Pan w/ Suncoast Filterlock and Transynd ATF, Bilstein 5100's (Norcal), Cognito UCA's, 17" NBS alloy rims, 265/70R17 Michelin LTX M/S2's, Pioneer AVH-P3200BT, CubbyCam Backup Camera, Pop & Lock Power Tailgate Lock, Extang Solid Fold Tonneau Cover, Tekonsha P3 Brake controller, Alphatherm AT-38OD Washer Fluid Heater

2011 Forest River Surveyor 235RKS
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
my2500hd
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trust me the bottle test dosent work, the best way to tell is like mtl dmax said, go threw glow plug hole with 100 psi shop air and look for bubbles in over flow, harbor freight sells a nice diesel compression tester for 30$, this was the only way i could truly see if it was my hg's giving me all the trouble. hope this helps
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2005 chevy 2500hd D/A ext cab debadged except DURAMAX emblem's
20x9.5 Gear Alloy Double Pump wheels w/ 325-50x20 nitto terra grapplers (for summer)
16x8 Gear Alloy Blackjack wheels w/ 265-75-16 nitto terra grapplers (for winter)
lowered 3" in rear, t-bars cranked down
fingered and egr bypassed, HP tuned, ppe boost controler, kennedy dual lift pumps with billet pickup,
4" turbo back straitpipe, my kitty ran away
suncoast v with mcrat convertor, mag tech pan, and trans brace
sd sleeves, cognito braces, bilstein shocks
AAM worm drive posi unit with stock gears

^TRADED IN FOR AN 09 GM 1500 GASSER FOR NOW
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:46 AM   #4 (permalink)
catman3126
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I see the glow plugs are on the lower side of the head they look pretty easy to get too by taking the inner fender well out? how hard do they come out? i would hate to break one off in the head. I dont have any symptoms of head gasket failure but I want to do head studs and was talking to Guy at socal about this and he said if you dont have the gasket problems just put them in one a t a time with the heads on. I have a late build LLY mid year 05. he said he has used both types of gaskets with no problems with studs when he has built motors. I guess if I do studs and they fail thats one less thing to buy if I have to do them down the road. and by then I may have my shop built with a two post lift to get the cab off the rig and make this alot easier.
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2005 2500HD dmax, CCSB, 4" exhaust afe intake, egr blocker plate. EFI LIVE V2
LBZ mouthpiece and custom intake piping, stage 4 built trans, Air dog 165 on demand. Varible MAF control, Danville 2.6 66MM, STG II Billet turbo. Pro Fab manifolds and Up pipes, 3"bridge and intercooler pipes.

1984 CJ7 Powered by a 2000' LS1 5.7L

2008 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic. 96CI. Black.
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
my2500hd
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yea there easy to get to ny pulling the inner fender skirts but what i did was spray the plugs with pb blaster and let that soak in for 5 mins or so then just go easy backing them out (do this by hand do not use power tools or you most likely will break some or all of them) i know some people have said not to replace the bolts with studs one at a time but if Guy says its ok i would go by his word because he knows what his talking about. good luck
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2005 chevy 2500hd D/A ext cab debadged except DURAMAX emblem's
20x9.5 Gear Alloy Double Pump wheels w/ 325-50x20 nitto terra grapplers (for summer)
16x8 Gear Alloy Blackjack wheels w/ 265-75-16 nitto terra grapplers (for winter)
lowered 3" in rear, t-bars cranked down
fingered and egr bypassed, HP tuned, ppe boost controler, kennedy dual lift pumps with billet pickup,
4" turbo back straitpipe, my kitty ran away
suncoast v with mcrat convertor, mag tech pan, and trans brace
sd sleeves, cognito braces, bilstein shocks
AAM worm drive posi unit with stock gears

^TRADED IN FOR AN 09 GM 1500 GASSER FOR NOW
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Old 12-06-2011, 01:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
catman3126
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yeah he just said if i dont have gasket issues now and have been running the max effort tune from nick for almost two years. of course i dont run on the high setting all the time but I do rail on it from time to time. he said I'm probly good to do the studs one at a time. My goal is to do the twin turbo set up to keep things cooler with the tuning I have.
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2005 2500HD dmax, CCSB, 4" exhaust afe intake, egr blocker plate. EFI LIVE V2
LBZ mouthpiece and custom intake piping, stage 4 built trans, Air dog 165 on demand. Varible MAF control, Danville 2.6 66MM, STG II Billet turbo. Pro Fab manifolds and Up pipes, 3"bridge and intercooler pipes.

1984 CJ7 Powered by a 2000' LS1 5.7L

2008 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic. 96CI. Black.
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Old 12-06-2011, 01:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
my2500hd
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if you just do the studs hopefully you have hg's in good shape, i railed my truck with pred and edge juice stacked and both maxed out for 4 years and 2 years ago i backed out of those programs and uploaded a 140hp or so tune with hp tuners and just had the hg's go so i dont really think extra power has a lot to do with it but i know it dosent help either, just trying to figure what made em go 2 years after i took a lot of the power off and have been driving like an old lady going to sunday church lol.
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2005 chevy 2500hd D/A ext cab debadged except DURAMAX emblem's
20x9.5 Gear Alloy Double Pump wheels w/ 325-50x20 nitto terra grapplers (for summer)
16x8 Gear Alloy Blackjack wheels w/ 265-75-16 nitto terra grapplers (for winter)
lowered 3" in rear, t-bars cranked down
fingered and egr bypassed, HP tuned, ppe boost controler, kennedy dual lift pumps with billet pickup,
4" turbo back straitpipe, my kitty ran away
suncoast v with mcrat convertor, mag tech pan, and trans brace
sd sleeves, cognito braces, bilstein shocks
AAM worm drive posi unit with stock gears

^TRADED IN FOR AN 09 GM 1500 GASSER FOR NOW
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Old 12-06-2011, 01:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
KEVINL
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my head gasket was blown between two cylinders and showed fine on the compression test
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
mtl_dmax
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Catman, there is nothing terribly wrong with trying to pull the head bolts one at a time and replacing them with studs (provided all your cylinders have good compression) and it may hold. In fact if you had an LBZ I'd probably suggest that method was just fine. The issue for me is the HG are an inherent weakness on the LLY which is why IMHO it's better practice to R&R the head gaskets too. It's more work but it may save you some bigger headaches later.
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2005 Silverado EC/SB, LLY, 4WD, EFI DSP5 V2 (Idaho Rob at ATP), Edge CTS w/ EGT probe, LML Exhaust Manifold, PPE shimmed FPRV, Banks LBZ Ram Air Intake, RDL EGR Delete, LBZ Turbo Mouthpiece (w/ blocked resonator & rerouted PCV), Kennedy twin lift pumps w/ megafilter, Corsa 4" Turbo Back 304 SS Exhaust, Mike L tranny cooler, EXAXT Steering System, Redhead Power Steering Box w/ Amsoil PS fluid, Green Torsion Keys, Allison Deep Pan w/ Suncoast Filterlock and Transynd ATF, Bilstein 5100's (Norcal), Cognito UCA's, 17" NBS alloy rims, 265/70R17 Michelin LTX M/S2's, Pioneer AVH-P3200BT, CubbyCam Backup Camera, Pop & Lock Power Tailgate Lock, Extang Solid Fold Tonneau Cover, Tekonsha P3 Brake controller, Alphatherm AT-38OD Washer Fluid Heater

2011 Forest River Surveyor 235RKS

Last edited by mtl_dmax; 12-06-2011 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 12-06-2011, 06:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
catman3126
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Yeah the problem is I have no place to work on anything. I figured I could ge the studs doen in one long day and I reall hat to tear the heads off my rig in my driveway in the middle of december. since i know the engine would be open for atleast two days or overnight. but your right thats not the right way to fix it. maybe it will hold out till I get my shop built.
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2005 2500HD dmax, CCSB, 4" exhaust afe intake, egr blocker plate. EFI LIVE V2
LBZ mouthpiece and custom intake piping, stage 4 built trans, Air dog 165 on demand. Varible MAF control, Danville 2.6 66MM, STG II Billet turbo. Pro Fab manifolds and Up pipes, 3"bridge and intercooler pipes.

1984 CJ7 Powered by a 2000' LS1 5.7L

2008 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic. 96CI. Black.
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