Has anyone solved the grinding starter problem? - Page 22 - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
 
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:11 PM   #211 (permalink)
chevyinlinesix
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I do not know specifically of a supplier for them. A delay in the drive moving forward is a cause for the grinding. Even though the solenoid is pushed forward (as it should) the drive will stick retracted, until it starts to spin and breaks free.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:19 AM   #212 (permalink)
CrazyRay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyinlinesix View Post
I do not know specifically of a supplier for them. A delay in the drive moving forward is a cause for the grinding. Even though the solenoid is pushed forward (as it should) the drive will stick retracted, until it starts to spin and breaks free.
Yeah we he said.
Even with it beeing pushed in slower ,the small gear should be sucked in naturally due to the "worm gear" cut. There is. Or should be a slight tapper or cut to help it stay in contact till the flywheel. Flexplate spins faster and pushes the small gear back.
I have an old error 6.5 TD. I AM on my 9th AutoZone rebuilt starter as of last week. After looking at the contact patch between the gears , I took a large hand file and milled the contact patch where it bolts to the block. Mine needed approx 1.5 mm filed down on 1 side. Being careful to keep everything square a d flat so it bolts up solid. May gears now mesh better then any starter that has been on this motor. No more flex ing and backing off off and grinding
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I love My 98 swiss (cheese) silveraldo Extcab SB (shortbus)
Bought used in 05' with146k, now has 231k,
On 2nd set of NAPA group 78 batteries,
On 8th 9th starter from auto zone
Walboro frb-13 LP
Relocated PMD heat sink, 6' harness & #9 resistor
EGR mod , blocked lower "S" intake, Gutted upper "S" intake
Boost gauge w/LED
3 speed high idle mod
Custom LED lites inside cab , LED rope lites outside on ladder racks , LED's lite up inside all 3 tool boxes
TODO List
"All 4 ON " Headl light mod
WVO , possible 2nd tank &/or heated wvo lines .connected 15gal tank in bed for wvo, unfortunatly I had to disconect the stock tank.
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:22 PM   #213 (permalink)
OldBlue56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyinlinesix View Post
I do not know specifically of a supplier for them. A delay in the drive moving forward is a cause for the grinding. Even though the solenoid is pushed forward (as it should) the drive will stick retracted, until it starts to spin and breaks free.
So what would your opinion be on just putting the mean green starter on in my case where it has been grinding fairly regular for over a year?

I would hate to spend the cash on one of those starters and then ruin it because the flywheel is too messed up, but if its just the delay in the starter you are talking about it sounds like maybe the mean green would work without a new flywheel.

I just know if I have to put a new flywheel on it will be a long time before I can get it fixed and if its just a starter I could have it fixed within the next few weeks.

Just looking for your thoughts on it since you have done some fairly extensive testing, I'm not gonna hold you to anything.
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:40 PM   #214 (permalink)
CrazyRay
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Mine has been grinding for to long as well. But you really have to look to see what shape the teeth are in. Teeth are very very hard . The starter gear will wear down first. But it will eat away the flexplate over time. Mine has some wear. But I shaved the starter housing so it sat closer and the gears mesh tight. Keep I n mind it is posted on the starter that you can not use shims. It has to be bolted tight to the block
__________________
I love My 98 swiss (cheese) silveraldo Extcab SB (shortbus)
Bought used in 05' with146k, now has 231k,
On 2nd set of NAPA group 78 batteries,
On 8th 9th starter from auto zone
Walboro frb-13 LP
Relocated PMD heat sink, 6' harness & #9 resistor
EGR mod , blocked lower "S" intake, Gutted upper "S" intake
Boost gauge w/LED
3 speed high idle mod
Custom LED lites inside cab , LED rope lites outside on ladder racks , LED's lite up inside all 3 tool boxes
TODO List
"All 4 ON " Headl light mod
WVO , possible 2nd tank &/or heated wvo lines .connected 15gal tank in bed for wvo, unfortunatly I had to disconect the stock tank.
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:44 PM   #215 (permalink)
Joey-D
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How much did you take off the starter? How long ago did you do this? Did it completely solve the problem? Would you reconmend doing it?
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:26 AM   #216 (permalink)
CrazyRay
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I recommend doing what ever It takes to fix the problem. My truck is old and is not really worth taking to a dealer to have some body work on it for $100.00 per hour.plus changing every part that has wear on it.
My flex plate has 3 sections or spots that have noticeable teeth chafing. My guess is a dealer mechanic would have to replace the flex plate to give a warranty on the fix. So really I had nothing to lose by trying my way.
I did look and measure before I filed away any material. I have replaced and shimmed many starters in my lifetime. So I had an idea of how much to take off and what side to shave.
Knowledge is power.
I used a 6" digital dial caliper to measure the area around both bolt holes. I also installed the starter and measured the gear mesh. The 6.5TD has a rather large tolerance gap compared to gassers and other diesels. I took off approx 1.44 mm on 1 side of the starter housing. I thought that was equal to shimming 1side of the starter. Keep in mind you are also changing the pitch or roll of the starter. The bolt holes in the starter housing shl ld be snug with the new factory shouldered starter bolts. But my rebuilt unit had been media blasted when rebuilt. And those holes where no longer the original size. That is part of the problem with rebuilt starrters. And it has to be flat and square. If you take off to much material from front to back. The starter doesn't sit rite. It will never work rite again
I don't know you or your capabilities. But look at it this way. It's broken now. How bad can you fug ed it up ?
Measure 3 times cut once.
I also made studs with the correct shoulder size and length so the screwed in to the block A's much as they could. And always put on the front bracket . All this so the starter doesn't move when it bucks or hits a compression stroke.
__________________
I love My 98 swiss (cheese) silveraldo Extcab SB (shortbus)
Bought used in 05' with146k, now has 231k,
On 2nd set of NAPA group 78 batteries,
On 8th 9th starter from auto zone
Walboro frb-13 LP
Relocated PMD heat sink, 6' harness & #9 resistor
EGR mod , blocked lower "S" intake, Gutted upper "S" intake
Boost gauge w/LED
3 speed high idle mod
Custom LED lites inside cab , LED rope lites outside on ladder racks , LED's lite up inside all 3 tool boxes
TODO List
"All 4 ON " Headl light mod
WVO , possible 2nd tank &/or heated wvo lines .connected 15gal tank in bed for wvo, unfortunatly I had to disconect the stock tank.
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:34 AM   #217 (permalink)
CrazyRay
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I did this approx 2 weeks ago. Yes it worked it is still working. I've trusted it to take a 1200 mile round trip. It sounds nice . Clean . Smooth. It sounds confident. When turning over.
I believe it will be a permanent fix , untill the windings burn ou t. I can't fix them
__________________
I love My 98 swiss (cheese) silveraldo Extcab SB (shortbus)
Bought used in 05' with146k, now has 231k,
On 2nd set of NAPA group 78 batteries,
On 8th 9th starter from auto zone
Walboro frb-13 LP
Relocated PMD heat sink, 6' harness & #9 resistor
EGR mod , blocked lower "S" intake, Gutted upper "S" intake
Boost gauge w/LED
3 speed high idle mod
Custom LED lites inside cab , LED rope lites outside on ladder racks , LED's lite up inside all 3 tool boxes
TODO List
"All 4 ON " Headl light mod
WVO , possible 2nd tank &/or heated wvo lines .connected 15gal tank in bed for wvo, unfortunatly I had to disconect the stock tank.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:58 AM   #218 (permalink)
Joey-D
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Thanks crazy ray. I understand and appreciate your process but I did not realize until now (even though you stated it 212) that is this was a 6.5 and not a 6.6.
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:04 PM   #219 (permalink)
CrazyRay
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A starter is a starter.
You just need to Masonic League go through and find out what part is the culprit of the grinding. Mind just happened to be spacing
__________________
I love My 98 swiss (cheese) silveraldo Extcab SB (shortbus)
Bought used in 05' with146k, now has 231k,
On 2nd set of NAPA group 78 batteries,
On 8th 9th starter from auto zone
Walboro frb-13 LP
Relocated PMD heat sink, 6' harness & #9 resistor
EGR mod , blocked lower "S" intake, Gutted upper "S" intake
Boost gauge w/LED
3 speed high idle mod
Custom LED lites inside cab , LED rope lites outside on ladder racks , LED's lite up inside all 3 tool boxes
TODO List
"All 4 ON " Headl light mod
WVO , possible 2nd tank &/or heated wvo lines .connected 15gal tank in bed for wvo, unfortunatly I had to disconect the stock tank.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-30-2012, 06:03 PM   #220 (permalink)
lavarock
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We are at 212 posts and numerous other threads. So far I have not been able to determine what is the culprit of the grinding with a LLY. Removing a starter from a 6.6 is a big job and it is my understanding it is impossible to measure starter engagement with engine and transmission in the truck. I wish I knew what the root problem was. I was watching a video of the Duramax assembly. From what I could see it looks like the starter mounts on the engine to transmission adapter plate. Can someone who has overhauled one of these engines verify that and if not is not the case explain how the starter does mount. A picture of an engine on an overhaul stand would be helpful.
I have read several times the problem can not be the block.
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