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Old 02-06-2010, 04:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
blctalon
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trying to replace frp, can't remove the bolts

I'm following a GM removal procedure in a .pdf document that is floating around here on a couple threads. No problem removing everything and having visual access to the FPR. My problem now is, the t-25 I have hits on the housing of the FPR. If my bit did fit in the bolts without hitting on the housing I'd still be lost as to how to reach the bolts. Someone suggested using a 1/4" with a T-25 and 2", well that's what I'm using. I also have a 1/4" wobbly and there's still no going because the angle is too tight and the wobbly binds up.

Most the pictures and even the writeup seem to be geared towards the LB7 engine. And being as though I have an LB7 sitting right next to my truck getting the water pump done, it seems to look like the images. There is no note about the large aluminum EGR tube coming up from under the turbo and out the intake manifold that's blocking all access to these little bolts. I thought about taking that thing off but there's more bolts/nuts that I can't gain access on the bottom of it.

What do I need to get this replaced and get my truck back on the rode?
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04 LLY ZF6 4x4 rclb 265s
Straight Piped
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PCV Rerouted
EGR Blocked
Predator 2.02
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
mountainar15
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you have to take the EGR manifold and the intake elbow that goes below the turbo off. Here's how;
1. Loosen 7/16 clamp on boot that holds the intake charge tube to the EGR manifold (passenger side of the engine). Separate the charge tube boot from the EGR manifold.

2. There are 4 12mm bolts that hold the EGR manifold in place (actually 3 nuts and one bolt I think). Remove them.

3. There are 2 12mm bolts/nuts that hold the EGR manifold to the intake elbow. Remove them.

4. Lift the EGR manifold off and set it off to the side. You may have to cut the zip ties that hold the wire harness to it.

5. Remove the intake elbow by twisting it back and forth and pulling it back. There are two O-rings around it that seal it in the intake manifold. Don't damage them. Grease the o-rings when you put the elbow back in.



Now there should be more room for your 1/4-drive T25 tools to remove the three bolts holding the FPR to the CP3 pump. I usually use a 1/4-drive ratchet with a 1-inch extension and a t25 socket.
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
blctalon
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I ended up taking it off already, just as you said. Those 2 o-rings in the elbow are pretty stubborn. Either that or the "soot" build up was holding it in there good. The EGR tube looks like shit. There's almost .5" buildup of oily ash stuff in some parts. I suppose I should take the time to clean this out while I got the tube off. Now I know why people block their EGRs..wish I had a plate to throw on there while I got it all apart.

My 2 socketed torx I had did not work because they still hit the housing of the FPR and wouldn't stay in straight. I ended up getting a little wrench kit that looks like hex wrenches but they're torx. Then I was able to put the long end of the torx wrench into the heads and use a 5mm deep socket on the little end of the torx for leverage. Tight work space and a days worth of frustration ended up taking way longer than it should. The new FPR is on, but I have to button all the pieces back up tomorrow.
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04 LLY ZF6 4x4 rclb 265s
Straight Piped
LBZ Mouthpiece
TXCAI
PCV Rerouted
EGR Blocked
Predator 2.02
Valair Ceramic Dual Disk
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Old 02-07-2010, 05:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
blctalon
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pics

Some pics.

What it looks like with all the stuff out of the way. The new FPR installed. I had the fuel line behind it removed when I installed the new one, but other than that that's how it has to look to get to the thing. The rest of of dirty EGR pipes. I cleaned those out but didn't take pics of the clean tubes. Last pic is a fun pile of stuff.

What I learned is you probably don't have to remove the alternator or disconnect the main electrical harnesses. Also, you can leave the water outlet tube connected to the top part of the thermostat housing so you don't have to worry about that oring in there. I was lucky and got away with not having to purchase a single gasket. I was able to re-use all the orings/gaskets. The tool I used is in above post.

After all this, I don't think it fixed my light throttle/slow speed surge. It's a dick of a job and I hope to never do it again.

I do need to reroute my pcv and possible block my EGR. Most people are saying the PCV is where all the soot comes from but the tubes in the pic are connected to the EGR and go directly into the intake. I believe the PCV is entering the system from the other side but maybe I'm wrong.
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trying to replace frp, can't remove the bolts-11.jpg  
__________________
04 LLY ZF6 4x4 rclb 265s
Straight Piped
LBZ Mouthpiece
TXCAI
PCV Rerouted
EGR Blocked
Predator 2.02
Valair Ceramic Dual Disk

Last edited by blctalon; 02-07-2010 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 02-07-2010, 06:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
ronjhall
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The PCV cause the oil you see at turbo inlet.
Soot is from the EGR. I did both of these upgrades. Sure has cleaned things up.
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