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Will not start, getting some fuel.

704 views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  VanBoy 
#1 ·
I was poking some rust off the frame yesterday and after I was done I started the truck and it ran for about 2 minutes then quit and couldn't get it going again. Couldn't get fuel at the filter just air. Come to find out because I was poking around the fuel tank I bumped the supply line and cracked it, it was pretty rotted. Anyways it started sucking air instead of fuel and stalled now I've got air in the system. So I bought another sending unit today and replaced that along with a new line from the sending unit to the fuel pump. Now when I try to bleed the system by bypassing the relay with a wire, I get a good flow a fuel at the filter, then I screw in the bleeder, repeat the same for the t-valve, same things I get a steady flow there. Then I try to start the engine and it will not fire up. I also cracked open 4 of the injector I could reach and I'm not getting a whole lot of fuel there, what's going on here what am I missing. PMD was relocated a couple years back.
 
#2 · (Edited)
A little fuel at the injectors should make it fire.....

I suggest this.... since you have bled most of the air... when you start or try to start, I suggest stepping on the throttle all the way to "increase" the amount of fuel going to the injectors.

I have done that in the past when my truck stalls...I think I have a leaking injector and sometimes it starts fine in the AM, runs about 10 seconds then dies slowly (as if it runs out of fuel). The LP runs a bit longer since the oil pressure is residual.... but when I restart, I step on the throttle till it catches then let up and let idle. It runs a bit rough then I increase the RPMs after the oil pressure goes up. I've done that trick with tractors, step on the foot throttle to increase fuel flow to the injectors till it fires then I let off and see if it keeps going....

If you have a charger, charge up the batteries to full charge. Doesn't hurt.... Especially if you have been turning the engine over to bleed the injector lines.... If you have no charger, hook up another vehicle and use it to charge the batts for a bit....
 
#3 ·
I have tried stepping on the throttle but still only cranks but won't fire up, the batteries are charging right now, will try again later today. How many injectors should I crack open, as many as possible or is one sufficient. It seems like the injector pump isn't getting fuel but you would think it would after bleeding it all the way to the filter and t-valve and getting a good flow
 
#4 · (Edited)
Is the crack part of the fuel sending unit?
Also, new fuel sending unit usually comes with a gasser sock although it said that it is for diesel.

Try bleeding again to see if the truck still have air in fuel after the truck is sitting.
If it does, that means there is more fuel line issue.

Try a KNOWN WORKING PMD which I am sure you have a spare.
 
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#5 ·
As JMJNet mentioned, the sending units sold on the market do not come with the correct tank sock and are restrictive. You need the correct tank sock: AC/Delco TS 1012

The best way to bleed air is to remove your Glow Plugs and apply a jumper to the lift pump relay.
Then crank the engine for 10-15 seconds and rest the starter for 3-5 mins and repeat till you get a fuel fog..
Once you have a fuel fog then re-install the glows and start the engine.
 
#6 ·
Got the truck going this morning, bled it one more time then I floored it when the pump was cycling and then turned it over for probably 5 sec then it fired, ran fine for 5 minutes then started sputtering, looked at the fuel line and found a pin hole between the fuel pump and the tank, patched it temporarily and now the truck runs great again. Time to bring it to the welding shop, gotta dump about a thousand dollars to repair the rotted frame and hopefully it will last me another couple years. Once it's fixed I will be undercoating it to stop the rust from spreading. Damn salt!!!
 
#7 ·
Glad you found the issue!! Good luck on the frame repair.
 
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