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Old 02-26-2013, 07:03 PM   #21 (permalink)
Big Blue DSL
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Hypothetical "jump starting" method/idea

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
This has nothing to do with the original question, but...Nothing can "pull amps"; current gets "pushed" by voltage through resistance (or impedance, which is slightly different). The GPs have fixed resistance, so given a fixed voltage (but it ISN'T fixed), they draw/pass/allow a fixed current to flow. As the batteries discharge or are overloaded, their voltage drops off, causing less current to flow, and the GPs don't get as hot. Adding batteries will help keep the voltage closer to constant, which is why diesels use 2 batteries.You're confusing current (Amperes) with power (Watts); and you're confusing what a given load will draw with what an engineer designs around.

If you KNOW that you need to send 1.21GW of power thru a cable from a dam to a city (or into a Delorean's trunk), the cable can be much smaller/lighter/cheaper if you send that power at 1.21GV, as opposed to 1.21V. At 1.21GV, it only takes 1A to transmit 1.21GW of power (W=VxA). But at 1.21V, it would take 1GA to send the same power, and the cable would have to be the size of a redwood trunk to prevent it from getting hot & melting like an exposed light bulb filament.

But if you have a load that runs at a nominal 12V and is designed to draw 1A at that voltage, and the voltage falls off, the current will fall off, too.
That's some good info man thanks for straightening it out for me


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Old 02-27-2013, 03:46 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I just had this experience this morning and was pleased with the result... It does require two people, but I just used my kid since he was off of school today.

Connect the positive end of a jump pack or source battery to the positive terminal of the jumped battery.

Turn the key to on to fire the glow plugs, wait until the "wait to start" light goes out.

Connect the Negative end of the Jump Pack or Source battery to the steel (bare metal) bar attached to the Turbo Intake

Crank for 5 seconds... Magic...

This protected the glow plugs, only supplied power to the battery when the glow plugs were off, and started the truck on the first try. Needless to say I was happy. I drove it out of a snow bank with snow to the bumpers without issue, cleaned off the 8" of snow on the truck, and drove to my class.
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:30 PM   #23 (permalink)
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WOW now this thread is a lot of needless worrying. If you use AC delco 60g or bosch duraterms there is no way you can hurt then by jump starting. They are self regulating.
I guess if you use cheapo brand GPs it could be an issue, But its only a matter of time till they will burn out and wont start your truck anyhow.
Use quality parts and there should be no worries.
Also and this is a no brainer...
If you have good batteries you wont need a jump start.
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:55 PM   #24 (permalink)
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well i killed my batts and i can tell you, that wont work, you got 2 batteries very hungry, chances are you have a gasser to jump you, and their alts dont seem to put out the amps to do the job, it took a 98 chevy gaser on 1 battery and a 06 chevy gaser on my other battery to get my truck to start.... i let the 1 truck on my starter side battery run for about 5 mins and tried, the lights began to barely just light up in the dash....

and besides, 14V isnt alot more than 12v, its only 2v, only concern i can see is because you got another alternator feeding say 40 amps in at the time, perhaps you can feed more amps? to the glow plugs?, so maybe just dont let the plugs cycle for as long?
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:57 PM   #25 (permalink)
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"Self regulating" refers to temperature. They will regulate themselves if and when they reach a certain temperature.

They cannot protected themselves against voltage spikes which is the primary issue with boosting and/or fast charging your truck.
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:14 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Octane View Post
and besides, 14V isnt alot more than 12v, its only 2v
And 2 volts is only one more volt than 1 volt. However, 2 volts is 100% more than 1 volt, and if you feed 2 volts to a device explicitly built to run on 1 volt, chances are you'll fry it.

Look at low voltage increases from a *percentage* basis and the Changes don't seem so minor all of a sudden.

I'm not suggesting that 14 volts will fry glowplugs - however, 16 or 17 and you start to see that risk. It's those sorts of voltages (or higher) that a lot of really high amperage fast chargers put out.

It's the fast-chargers/boosters that are more of a concern here vs boosting from another vehicle, really.
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Last edited by PrivatePilot; 02-27-2013 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:19 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Another thing to consider with setting a charger to "START (200A)" is the condition of the dead batteries. If they're relatively new, but just discharged (like if you left the lights on overnight), then they'll soak up the power from the charger and the voltage won't reach 17 or 18. But if they're cheap/old/abused/sulfated batteries, they'll go from dead to their (now-severely-reduced) charge capacity in a few seconds, and voltage can go dangerously high.

The jump vehicle's alternator has almost nothing to do with it - it's more about the cables & their clamps, and also the jump battery. A Yugo with a 40A alternator but an 800CCA battery can easily jump a diesel if the cables & clamps are good. Just like a jump pack - it has a 0A alternator, but it can still work if it can put enough amps thru its clamps.
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:17 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Battery story....

Speaking of jumping cables and batteries.....

A few years back, I was at a store, saw a guy helping (trying to at least) a disabled vehicle. Hoods were open and they were trying to jump start the vehicle. What got me was, their cables were, well, looked like 8 gauge, if not smaller. I kind of watched this a little before going in and when I came out, they were still there. The battery in the helping vehicle didn't look much better then the disabled car.

I offered up my help. Told them I had bigger cables. What I didn't tell them was, one end was set up for quick connect on my F150. I drove up, pulled out the 4 gauge cables, hooked up to their battery and plugged into my quick connect. Told them to give it a minute or two and then try it. Spun right over like it had a good battery in it.... I didn't tell them I had an older 1050 CA Optima under the hood. Unhooked, got thanked and went on my way.....

At work, they have a jump pack for the gasser rigs. I think they tried it a few times on the diesels (buses) and a few times it worked.
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Last edited by VanBoy; 02-28-2013 at 08:27 AM. Reason: clarification
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