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Old 01-23-2013, 01:10 AM   #11 (permalink)
57diesel
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I thought about poking around the starter but at minus F temps that rubber stuff in the fender might as well be sheet metal, it was not going to bend back to let me easily probe the terminals.

Battery cables, hardware and batteries were new this summer so hopefully no issues there yet.

Maybe my starter came from the same batch with the extra thick grease as Ryan's.
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96 Burb K25 3.42's 320K miles so far, told its all original, front bumper grey pmd otherwise stock, close race between engine wearing out or body completely rust out.
95 Burb K25 3.73's 250K miles, new to me, looks to have been rebuilt at least once, stock, bad rust, 8' western plow.
81 Buick Riviera with the infamous Olds 5.7 diesel still going strong.
13 VW Jetta Sport Wagon TDI of course, does low 40's around town and can see 50's on the highway.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:43 AM   #12 (permalink)
JMJNet
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There is always a chance that the batteries are freezing?
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1995 GMC Suburban:
PMD in Bumper
4" Warpspeed Exhaust
KD LP/OPS Harness
Bosch Duraterm GP
Heath Turbo-Master
Chevron's XLP Diesel Additive
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Old 01-23-2013, 02:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
Graplr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57diesel View Post
I thought about poking around the starter but at minus F temps that rubber stuff in the fender might as well be sheet metal, it was not going to bend back to let me easily probe the terminals.

Battery cables, hardware and batteries were new this summer so hopefully no issues there yet.

Maybe my starter came from the same batch with the extra thick grease as Ryan's.
My starter is about 2.5 years old from Autozone (with the lifetime warranty). Not trying to get into a debate about the Mcparts stuff vs Bosch, etc just stating for purposes of the debate. This is really the first winter I've driven it since the new starter was installed (sat two years ago awaiting an IP and last year awaiting a trans rebuild).
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1994 Chev Suburban K2500 6.5 258k miles
-Diamond Eye Exhaust with muffler & 2.5" FloPro Crossover Pipe
-LubSpec Oil Cooler Kit, -Webasto Diesel Coolant Heater w/Remote Start
-Remote PMD on Heat Sync in bumper, HID Headlights w/new lenses
-Newer IP, New Bosch Injectors, New Bosch Duraterm Glow Plugs, Newer Radiator
-PYO Aluminum Wheels, Bridgestone Dueller II A/T tires
-Boost, Fuel Pressure, EGT Gauges, K47 intake w/Amsoil EaA 112 Air Filter
-Rebuilt Transmission @ 227k miles
-LP Relay Mod, High Idle Switch Mod, Glow Plug Override Mod, Battery Terminal Mod
-New OPS, Batteries, Brakes, Starter, Alternator, Fuel Lines, Lift Pump, Vacuum Pump -GMTD Scan Tech
1996 Chev K2500 Pickup 6.5 Odometer says 135k miles but not working
Bought for $900-On the road after Turbo replacement, New LP. Ignition Switch
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Old 01-23-2013, 02:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
JMJNet
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Lifetime warranty does not reflect any quality, it just means that you can replace it anytime whether it is good or bad or may be the store can test it for you.
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1995 GMC Suburban:
PMD in Bumper
4" Warpspeed Exhaust
KD LP/OPS Harness
Bosch Duraterm GP
Heath Turbo-Master
Chevron's XLP Diesel Additive
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
FloridaHorseman
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If you already have access to 110v for the block heater I'd suggest tapping into it for a good ol' 100W light bulb positioned directly under or next to the starter overnight and see if that makes a difference. It should certainly narrow the problem down between congealed grease and bad cable/ignition connections. ~FH
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1994 Chevy K1500 Z71, 6.5L TD 145,000 miles, bumper mount PMD, LP relay mod, filter sock delete -SOLD-
1998 Chevy K3500, 454 horse hauler , 175,000 miles, tuned flow-through exhaust, pillar gauges (vac, trans temp, volts), electric cooling fans, external trans cooler & fan, manual TCC lockup mod, limo tint, front & rear brush guards, B&W G/N flip hitch, spray-in bed liner, chrome wheel inserts


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Old 01-23-2013, 05:28 PM   #16 (permalink)
Graplr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMJNet View Post
Lifetime warranty does not reflect any quality, it just means that you can replace it anytime whether it is good or bad or may be the store can test it for you.
As I stated, I didn't want to get in a debate about Mcparts vs high quality. I fully understand the differences and have chosen to go that route with starters and alternators on the 6.5.
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Ryan
1994 Chev Suburban K2500 6.5 258k miles
-Diamond Eye Exhaust with muffler & 2.5" FloPro Crossover Pipe
-LubSpec Oil Cooler Kit, -Webasto Diesel Coolant Heater w/Remote Start
-Remote PMD on Heat Sync in bumper, HID Headlights w/new lenses
-Newer IP, New Bosch Injectors, New Bosch Duraterm Glow Plugs, Newer Radiator
-PYO Aluminum Wheels, Bridgestone Dueller II A/T tires
-Boost, Fuel Pressure, EGT Gauges, K47 intake w/Amsoil EaA 112 Air Filter
-Rebuilt Transmission @ 227k miles
-LP Relay Mod, High Idle Switch Mod, Glow Plug Override Mod, Battery Terminal Mod
-New OPS, Batteries, Brakes, Starter, Alternator, Fuel Lines, Lift Pump, Vacuum Pump -GMTD Scan Tech
1996 Chev K2500 Pickup 6.5 Odometer says 135k miles but not working
Bought for $900-On the road after Turbo replacement, New LP. Ignition Switch

Last edited by Graplr; 01-23-2013 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:30 PM   #17 (permalink)
Graplr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaHorseman View Post
If you already have access to 110v for the block heater I'd suggest tapping into it for a good ol' 100W light bulb positioned directly under or next to the starter overnight and see if that makes a difference. It should certainly narrow the problem down between congealed grease and bad cable/ignition connections. ~FH
That is true but in my thread on this matter, it was suggested that the starter solenoid sticks in cold weather so if the bulb warms this it may very well be electrical still?
__________________
Ryan
1994 Chev Suburban K2500 6.5 258k miles
-Diamond Eye Exhaust with muffler & 2.5" FloPro Crossover Pipe
-LubSpec Oil Cooler Kit, -Webasto Diesel Coolant Heater w/Remote Start
-Remote PMD on Heat Sync in bumper, HID Headlights w/new lenses
-Newer IP, New Bosch Injectors, New Bosch Duraterm Glow Plugs, Newer Radiator
-PYO Aluminum Wheels, Bridgestone Dueller II A/T tires
-Boost, Fuel Pressure, EGT Gauges, K47 intake w/Amsoil EaA 112 Air Filter
-Rebuilt Transmission @ 227k miles
-LP Relay Mod, High Idle Switch Mod, Glow Plug Override Mod, Battery Terminal Mod
-New OPS, Batteries, Brakes, Starter, Alternator, Fuel Lines, Lift Pump, Vacuum Pump -GMTD Scan Tech
1996 Chev K2500 Pickup 6.5 Odometer says 135k miles but not working
Bought for $900-On the road after Turbo replacement, New LP. Ignition Switch
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
FloridaHorseman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graplr View Post
That is true but in my thread on this matter, it was suggested that the starter solenoid sticks in cold weather so if the bulb warms this it may very well be electrical still?
Yes. That's the point. Isolate the problem. ~FH
__________________

1994 Chevy K1500 Z71, 6.5L TD 145,000 miles, bumper mount PMD, LP relay mod, filter sock delete -SOLD-
1998 Chevy K3500, 454 horse hauler , 175,000 miles, tuned flow-through exhaust, pillar gauges (vac, trans temp, volts), electric cooling fans, external trans cooler & fan, manual TCC lockup mod, limo tint, front & rear brush guards, B&W G/N flip hitch, spray-in bed liner, chrome wheel inserts


Engine "No Start" Checklist
Diagnostic Checklist
OBD1 Trouble Codes
OBD2 Trouble Codes
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:27 PM   #19 (permalink)
bigblazer
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If you take the selonoid off that "lifetime" starter, disassemble it, go get delco disassemble that, then you will find your answer.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:43 AM   #20 (permalink)
57diesel
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Today pretty much similar ambient temps and it was fine with just the block heater running about an hour longer than it did the previous day when it had the problem. The problem day it only got about 1 1/2 hours on the heater. Guessing that was enough to add some heat to the coolant but not a lot to the block. I can't remember but I am thinking the heater is on the left side? So it would take a while to migrate heat to the starter?

No idea what brand my starter is. I think the PO said he had just replaced it. I did get a pack of paper work for the stuff a shop did but I got the impression he had a no start at home situation and that is likely when the GP's got half ass done and maybe the new starter. He told me that all the GP's got replaced but later I found out that what he meant to say was all the ones that are easy to get to. 4-6-8 looked like they could have been originals and 2 of them were not working. Add that a link was bad on the other side it was starting on 5. That tells me that either who ever did the work was not the best or the PO would not let the worker do what needed to be done.
__________________
96 Burb K25 3.42's 320K miles so far, told its all original, front bumper grey pmd otherwise stock, close race between engine wearing out or body completely rust out.
95 Burb K25 3.73's 250K miles, new to me, looks to have been rebuilt at least once, stock, bad rust, 8' western plow.
81 Buick Riviera with the infamous Olds 5.7 diesel still going strong.
13 VW Jetta Sport Wagon TDI of course, does low 40's around town and can see 50's on the highway.
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