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My FTB/Fuel line upgrade

51K views 114 replies 38 participants last post by  turbonator 
#1 ·
In anticipation for some future upgrades, I decided I needed to tackle this. Although I had no problems, per se, with the factory system other than the weak LP I did want to get the factory FFM out of the engine bay and clean things up a bit, while adding a better LP and a few other goodies along the way.

To start off, I removed the entire fuel supply line, from the tank to the IP, including the LP and FFM. While I had the tank dropped, I took the oportunity to install the Metrum Rod Fuel Sending Unit from pmdcable:




This is a nice upgrade to the factory float system, and is more of a TLI. My gauge now drops more linear, and I don't get the way over full reading anymore.

While I was in there I removed the fuel sock too.

I then attached an adaptor fitting on the supply line to convert the threads to a -6an male fitting.

Moving on to the pre-LP filter, I used a WIX 33239 fuel filter (32 micron) with the appropriate base for it.

I then plumbed in a Walbro FRB-5.

Then to my new primary filter...WIX 33418 (fuel/water seperator w/ drain....12 micron) with it's appropriate base.

Both filters and the LP are mounted to a piece of 16 gauge steel that I drilled the mounting holes in a welded some flange nuts to the back of to facilitate the removal of any of these components. Then the plate was welded to my inner frame in between the torsion bar crossmember and carrier bearing crossmember. It is about 23" X 9" (L X W).





The plate sits about 1/2" below my frame. My primary filter is for a detroit diesel, and is too long. I don't like the drain fitting sitting that low on my truck, so it will get changed out for a WIX 33123 which is for a 6.2 diesel. That is the same filter as I have, but is about 2" shorter which will be perfect.

After the primary filter, you can barely make out my FP gauge sending unit up there.

From that, it is a straight shot to the IP where I used a 135* hose end screwed into a drilled out adaptor fitting screwed into a drilled out inlet fitting. (Thanks for the fitting Leroy!) I opened up the holes to 5/32" from the stock 1/8".




A while ago I added a Kennedy Diesel lift pump control harness, but could never use it as my factory LP would short it for some reason, but with the Walbro it works great.

I still have some things to finish on it though. I need to:

1) Solder my LP connections ( I wanted to start the truck, so I used temporary butt connectors)
2) Wire my FP gauge..I'm curious what kind of pressures I'm getting now
3) Replace the primary filter with the shorter one


I had been collecting parts for about a month to do this whole thing and have about $650 total in the project, but that includes some large expenses like the autometer FP gauge ($200), Walbro LP ($120), and Metrum Rod ($130). I am very happy now with the setup and now I feel confident to move on to future upgrades.
 
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#2 ·
That's Awesome.
 
#3 ·
Very nicely done. I was going to say some thing about the butt connecters but you covered it. They do make heat shrink crimp connectors that are weather tight.
 
#4 ·
Great upgrade!!!

So, you basically getting rid of the stock fuel filter??

That is great!!!
 
#6 ·
Finished up a few loose ends last night.

I got the FP gauge all done and wired in. My truck, a crew cab, is supposed to have a block off plate in the overhead console. When I got it, it was missing, so a while ago at the junkyard I found a '94 suburban that has the single rear AC knob in the overhead console and grabbed that plate. I took a 2" hole saw and a dremel to open up the hole for my 2 1/16" gauge, then a little interior paint and voila!



Of course, as soon as this little project was over, another one reared it's head at me: Now my EGT gauge is bouncing all over the place, and I am unable to read it. Since it was working fine, I think it has something to do with the wiring I spliced into. I have 4 gauges with all their ground tied into one wire, which goes out the firewall to an engine ground, same with the 12 volt power, all going to an add a fuse, and of course same with all the lighting going to an add a fuse for the lighting.

I think with the 3 grounds from gauges (trans, EGT, FP) and 4 grounds from gauge lights (trans, EGT, FP, Boost) all on one 16 gauge ground, it is too much. I will be changing my ground wire to 12 gauge and re-soldering all those connections to it. Hopefully that will fix the issue.

I also got the LP connectors soldered in and got rid of those ugly butt connectors, as well as loomed up all the wiring under the truck.

I have noticed a small leak on my primary filter at the -6an to 1/2" NPT adaptor. It is really annoying that I will have to remove so much to get in there and fix it now. All the fittings I used are from the same place, anfittingsdirect, and they didn't thread into the filter bases very well, so I ordered some good steel aeroquip ones from Summit along with a smaller primary filter and I guess that will be next weekends project.

Winter finally seems to be rearing it's head here in north central TX so the temps are down to the 40s and the wind is up. I don't know how you guys up north work on your trucks in this weather! LOL.
 
#7 ·
I don't know how you guys up north work on your trucks in this weather! LOL.

Pole barn and torpedo heater! Works for me.
 
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#80 · (Edited)
I don't know how you guys up north work on your trucks in this weather! LOL.

Pole barn and torpedo heater! Works for me.
All work stops on my projects when winter rolls around, no garage.

Nice job on the filter setup 4the
 
#8 · (Edited)
Nice work! Where did that screen come from in the last pic of your first post?

[/topic]
Do your visor extensions hit your console? When you get tired of looking at the peeling upholstery on the visors, it's REALLY easy to replace:
 
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#9 ·
Steve,

That screen covers the 4 holes in that fitting as a last ditch effort to keep foreign debris out of the IP.

I have seen your write up on the visors before, nice work and I plan on going that route at the same time I redo my headliner.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Heck the high 40's is just when it begins to get comfortable for working on the trucks.

When the heat gets working in my shop the stat will be set at 50 and that might be too warm(although when it gets to -10 or -20f with a wind chill factor outside 50 will likely be very nice!
 
#66 ·
This is an old post, but I am the exact same way.

I blame the 50/50 mix of Eskimo blood that turned me into a walking furnace.
 
#11 ·
That's awesome man!
I'm gonna tackle this mod when the weather turns for the better come next year (2012, not 12 months from now) it'll also allow me to save up for it lol.

I'm an advocate of dealing with the factory short comings, timing gearset, oil cooler and lines, HE351VE turbo, intake, exhaust and next will be the fuel system.

I'm with you, I'll build a more efficient beast before I try for a more powerful beast.
 
#12 ·
OK, I had a productive lunch break today,

I got my EGT gauge to stop bouncing by removing the ground wire and running a good 14 gauge wire with a soldered on terminal ring (grounded to engine) into the cab and soldering all my grounds to it.

Also finished looming up everything to protect all the wiring.

The brown truck also brought me my new primary filter as well as the aeroquip fittings I ordered. I will try to replace all that before the weekend, but we'll see. I hate how I go to work with the sun down and come home from work with the sun down this time of year. I do all my work in my driveway so sunlight is sure nice to have while laying under the truck.

Also I got my chip ordered yesterday and hopefully it should be here Friday. I went with a "buddy's" 6 program chip. I think while I have the dash apart installing this I will do the high idle mod as well. I need to read up on that as well.
 
#13 ·
Green Machine did a good obdI write up on how to DIY high idle.
 
#14 ·
Yea, I found it. I'm gonna stop by the Chevy house on the way home and see if they have some terminal pins. If not there, i'll have to trek up to Napa sometime.
 
#15 ·
did you change the from the stock fuel lines too?
 
#16 ·
The supply line is all new from the tank to IP. I left the return line alone.

Acesneights gave me a Russell PN to convert from the metric oring fitting on the tank to -6an which made this very easy.
 
#17 ·
im thinking about doing what youve done with your fuel system someday.
from what ive read, all your filtering is now under the truck?
 
#18 ·
That is correct. Some people have concerns about the lack of fuel heater and WIF sensor, but that can all be fixed with the right filter if need be.

I left both of those connectors in the engine bay right now and if I have a problem I will use one of these:






I highly doubt I will have a problem in Texas with the fuel heater, and with weekly filter drainings I shouldn't have a problem with water either. I have had a bad tank of diesel before in my mercedes and I don't need an idiot light to tell me there is water in there. LOL.
 
#19 ·
that would be one of my concerns here in VA. the weather is just ridiculous. itll be 80 degrees one day and a few days later 30s and 40s
 
#20 ·
I did not put the Fuel heater in My Racor and have never had a problem, I doubt 50% of the stock fuel heaters work anyway
 
#22 · (Edited)
Nice set up. I'm also looking into replacing the complete feed line too and is this the cheapest dollar for dollar and easiest set up? Did you mount all the filters, pump in the middle of the chassis frame? Does it matter where I mount the Walbro inline pump?

What about others using the Racor set up? I assume both style set up would be way better than the stock set up?
 
#23 ·
Nice set up. I'm also looking into replacing the complete feed line too and is this the cheapest dollar for dollar and easiest set up? Did you mount all the filters, pump in the middle of the chassis frame? Does it matter where I mount the Walbro inline pump?

Yes, it is mounted on the driver's side inside frame rail in between the torsion bar Xmember and the carrier bearing xmember. ( I have a CCLB).

As far as the cheapest....this is the cheapest way I found to do what I wanted:)

Although I didn't price it, I would assume if you just ran rubber/viton fuel hose and used barb fittings it would be cheaper, or went with a factory replacement line it would be cheaper, but this is what I wanted. From my first post, you can see I had some big ticket items that may or may not be on someone else's list for this, but I wanted them on my truck. (metrum rod, FP gauge, etc)

You can mount the walbro anywhere you like inline, although it is a good idea to have some sort of filter before, even if it is the tank sock. I know someone else did something similar to this setup, but put his new primary filter before the LP, then the LP fed directly into the IP. To each his own.
 
#25 ·
very cool project!

If you don't mind me asking where did you get the Wix filters and bases? I would like to do something similar.
 
#26 ·
very cool project!

If you don't mind me asking where did you get the Wix filters and bases? I would like to do something similar.

Those items came from amazon, I did quite a bit of shopping for them and they had the best price at the time.

When I get home I'll post the part numbers for the bases.
 
#28 · (Edited by Moderator)
Some part numbers I used

OK, here are some of the part numbers I used. I have to give credit to acesneights for leading me to some of these.

(1) Russell 640830 - M16 x 1.5 to -6 Flare - To adapt tank fitting to -6an

(3) 1/2"NPT to -6an adaptors - To go into the filter bases (in x2, out x1)

(1) Russell 670060 - 3/8"NPT x -6an w/ 1/8"npt female - for FP sender

(2) 1/4"NPt to -6an adaptors - To go into the Walbro FRB-5

(1) Russell 661580 1/2"npt x 3/8"npt reducer bushing - so I could use Russell pn 670060

(1) Walking J Designs FTB IP fitting - not sure what the size is that threads into the IP, but it adapts to -6an and is drilled for max flow

(1) Modified IP fitting with enlarged holes, custom made by me

(1) Wix 24770 filter base for the pre-LP filter

(1) Wix 33239 filter for the pre LP filter

(1) Wix 24309 filter base for the primary filter

(1) Wix 33418 filter for the primary filter. Edit: I have since changed this to Wix 33123 because it is ~2 inches shorter and won't hang down below my frame

(1) Walbro FRB-5

(~15 ft) PTFE Braided stainless steel line, -6an

(7) Stainless Steel line straight adaptors (hose ends)

(1) 135* stainless steel adaptor (hose end at IP) Edit: If I was to do this again I would use a 150* as it would be easier to route the line under the intake at this location.

(1) 16 gauge mild steel plate, cut and painted by me

I think that is all I used. All of these parts are readily available online or you can probably get them at your local parker store, if you have one near. I used multiple vendors, but Summit has the quickest shipping and, so i've heard, the best customer service. I haven't had to use it yet.:)
 
#81 ·
OK, here are some of the part numbers I used. I have to give credit to acesneights for leading me to some of these.

(1) Russell 640830 - M16 x 1.5 to -6 Flare - To adapt tank fitting to -6an

So this fitting will allow me to replace the factory flex lines coming from the top of the tank? Do we need to do this? Do those lines have issues?
 
#29 ·
I'm the kind of person that likes to go somewhere to get my stuff when I can, you mentioned some of this at a parker store, which I do have nearby, would they have wix filter bases there or would they be racor?

Thanks for the numbers!!
 
#30 ·
I actually didn't get any of my parts at a parker store, but they have or can get pretty much any fitting and hose you may need. Not sure about wix stuff, you can probably check their web site to see what they carry.
 
#31 ·
I think we should call this one the Sporty fuel line mod ;)

Now I have something to do over the winter... collect parts lol.

Thanks for the shopping list :p:
 
#32 ·
autometer FP gauge $200

Where did you get the gauge? Cheapest I found is $225.
 
#33 ·
added to the DIY section
 
#34 ·
#36 · (Edited by Moderator)
I just installed a FRB5 as well. Note: the inlet/outlets are 1/4" NPT, not 3/8. It still has a 45gph rating, though.

Thank you for noticing that!

Mods, please edit my post #28 to reflect 1/4" NPT to -6an adaptors for the Walbro pump. Also, I didn't note it, but I used 90* adaptors here which are clearly visible in the pics.
 
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