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#11 (permalink) |
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Diesel Master
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: clovis, NM
Posts: 2,114
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
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I am running an intercooled HE351VE now.
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1984 Suburban C10, 6.2L/6.5T hybrid motor (lots of torque), Compound Turbocharged with HE351VE and T76, Intercooled, TH700, 3.08 gears w/posi P&P GM#162 heads, 506 block, DB2829 injector pump, J-code intake manifold, Pennsular diesel upper plenum. Banksturbo and HMMWV manifolds, custom cross over and adaptors made by me, 3'' stainless down pipe and 4'' straight pipe exhaust. Electric radiator fans (16''+12''+12''), Meziere electric water pump (55gpm), HD '92+ 6.5T water crossover, 2 block heaters, two G183 intake heaters, 60G plugs. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...92#post4699592 For sale: crank, manifolds, coolant pump, LB7 and 6.2 master cylinder, diesel tools, brake light lense covers, 00gauge starter cable, t-stat houseing + X-over, custom exhaust |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Diesel Technician
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 132
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
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Maybe this is one of the reasons my IAT is so low, with a top mounted ATA Cooler it sure will cool down the IM with the air passing over it.
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Suburban K2500 6,5td. F 1994 256000 km. 3 pillar gauge Boost-exhaust-tranny temp. 3,5 inch exhaust. No Cat Marine injectors. 3.73 rear Custom hood scope Custom top mounted Intercooler setup Pull fan under Cooler Push fan in front of AT oil cooler AT@T Turbo - deleted vacuum pump K-47 Air box AFE Dry media filter 3 Banger Buddy MPC Tune installed GMTD Scan Tech - Onboard carputer |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Diesel Specialist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 592
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
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Before you go to all the trouble, I would put a temp probe at the outlet of the turbo to see what the compressed air temp actually is. Just a thought but as a diesel has no "throttle plate" the gobs of air that passes through the intake manifold is probably moving faster then the heat exchange could take place. I would guess that a ATA would give you much better results.
As far as adding something between the heads and manifold, 10MM is a lot. The mounting bolts won't line up when you go to fasten it down. What ever you decide to put between should be machined off the manifold to retain alignment. Could 10MM be safely removed from the IM flanges??? |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Diesel Master
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 3,461
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Ontario Diesel Place Chapter Member |
Here you go. I made them myself, in my shop
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2001 GMC Sierra 2500HD, EC LB, 2WD, Duramax, 30mpg highway. 1996 Chevy Silverado 2500HD, RC LB, 4x4, 14 bolt FF 3.73 posi, Suncoast 4L80E, completely custom engine, true dual 4" exhaust 1987 GMC Sierra 1500HD, RC LB, 12 bolt 3.08 posi, built 383 stroker, TH400, 13" towing converter, 26mpg highway, 22 city, daily driver/drag truck. Swapping in a built TT Duramax/Allison. Looking for about 700RWHP 1995 Chevy 3500HD, RC, DRW, 13' for looong box, Dana 80 4.63 gears, double framed, 15,000 GVWR Member #11 of the TLFTN club, ECLB Member #1 WWW.DMAXSTORE.COM Quote:
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Diesel Technician
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 164
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
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1995 Suburban C1500 6.5 TD VIN F
2005 Subaru WRX STi race ready!!! 1987 Porsche 944 Cup racer 1999 Audi A4 Advant daily driver 1993 Suzuki GSXR 600 <-- For Sale |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Diesel Specialist
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aaand I was reading all this thinking it's recent...
stinking spammers... anyway, gassers need intake cooling to keep the fuel air charge power. diesels only benefit from the air temp reduction for turbo mass. I doubt much difference from the spacers... however, a metal heat reflector under the manifold likely would.
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86 C20 6.5block in 6.2 trim with the TH400 96 6.5 block, most of the IP, flywheel, and pressure plate. 94 GMC extended cab long bed 6 lug truck 6.5L 4L80 |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Diesel Technician
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 413
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
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Phenolic plastic makes neat spacers and stuff but that stuff transfers heat real quick and really does not isolate the heat from one source to another. Stuff is to dense.
On a turbo engine there is not a heat transfer problem. When the boost builds up over 10 PSI the air itself is probably hotter than your intake. So you really need a aftercooler to cool the air off to see any improvement. I've built phenolic spacers and in every case the spacer was just as hot as the aluminum it was mounted to. If anybody has any technical info on the net to show me otherwise I would be glad to see .it. 80 degree day the boosted air temp would be around 200 degrees going into the engine at 10 psi. With air temp that hot the isolater spacer would not show any improvement at all. But don't stop building one, it's still cool to see one in place.
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98 3500 dually Last edited by Deezel; 11-28-2012 at 05:43 PM. |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Diesel Master
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 3,461
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Ontario Diesel Place Chapter Member |
One should do something to prevent heat transfer from the inside out too.
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2001 GMC Sierra 2500HD, EC LB, 2WD, Duramax, 30mpg highway. 1996 Chevy Silverado 2500HD, RC LB, 4x4, 14 bolt FF 3.73 posi, Suncoast 4L80E, completely custom engine, true dual 4" exhaust 1987 GMC Sierra 1500HD, RC LB, 12 bolt 3.08 posi, built 383 stroker, TH400, 13" towing converter, 26mpg highway, 22 city, daily driver/drag truck. Swapping in a built TT Duramax/Allison. Looking for about 700RWHP 1995 Chevy 3500HD, RC, DRW, 13' for looong box, Dana 80 4.63 gears, double framed, 15,000 GVWR Member #11 of the TLFTN club, ECLB Member #1 WWW.DMAXSTORE.COM Quote:
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