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Old 06-02-2012, 11:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
bruinz
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Which Starter?

Hi All,

Time has come to replace my starter. I've looked at the parts sticky on this forum and have gone to Rock Auto.

They're listing 8 different starters for the vehicle in my signature.

I want to make sure I'm getting the right one.

Please help.

Here's what they're listing:

  1. TYC Part #106469 {#10465014, 10465385} OE Mfr: Delco; Output: 2.5KW; Type: OSGR
  2. PURE ENERGY Part #6469SN Direct Drive Type
  3. PURE ENERGY Part #6469S Reman Direct Drive Type
  4. ACDELCO Part #3361912 {#19136221} Remanufactured 4 WHEEL DRIVE; DELCO 28MT 5.0 KW
  5. REMY Part #25447 Remanufactured
  6. ACDELCO Part #3371002 {#88877101} NEW UNIT 4 WHEEL DRIVE; DE-28MT 2.5KW
  7. REMY Part #96100 New; Remy Gold
  8. ACDELCO Part #323447 {#10465054, 10497165, 323381} Reman DELCO SERIES 28MT; TYPE 171; PROD 1113296
The parts sticky says #4, but which one is right for my vehicle? Why so many different part numbers?

Thanks in advance.

More later...

Z.
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:56 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I wouldn't go with anything other than the ACDelco or Remy(used to be DelcoRemy years ago).

You have different part numbers because you have starters with different rating as well as "new" and "re manufactured" starters.

Here's number 4 and number 6 from your list.

ACDELCO Part #3361912 {#19136221} Remanufactured 4 WHEEL DRIVE; DELCO 28MT 5.0 KW


ACDELCO Part #3371002 {#88877101} NEW UNIT 4 WHEEL DRIVE; DE-28MT 2.5KW

As you can see the top one is a reman 28MT and is 5.0KW, or 5 kilowatts.

The bottom one is brand new, same style 28MT starter, but is 2.5KW, or 2.5 kilowatts.

A Re-Manufactured starter is basically a "used" starter case that's been gone through, cleaned up and painted. New internals are then installed.

A New unit, is just like you would think. The entire unit, case and all is brand new.
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I replaced mine awhile ago and bought a remanufactured one from Advanced Auto. I haven't had problems, but I do wish I went with the original because it wasn't fun to replace. The wires were short and there is the third bolt that is a little challenging to get to. Remember that it is easier (much easier) to pull the bracket off the engine block versus taking it off the starter. leave it loose when you reassemble, then use extensions through the wheel well to tighten. Good luck.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:19 AM   #4 (permalink)
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As for direct drive vs the gear reduction models, I'm partial to the gear reduction - lower amp draw and totally reliable from a gearing standpoint.

Others prefer the direct drive models but you'd better make sure you have 2 good batteries, especially in the winter.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:50 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The best one is if you can find a local starter shop and have the current one rebuilt.

If you really wants the best, get a Powermaster starter.
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
Tommygunner
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I use Powermaster starters. You can get them from Summit. yes they are expensive but it will be the last starter you put in your truck and they work great. Plus they are made in the USA.
Other than that I would get a reman AC delco /remy.
Most new starters you buy these days no matter what the brand, are imported junk.
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
bruinz
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So will this one fit:

ACDELCO Part #3361912 {#19136221} Remanufactured 4 WHEEL DRIVE; DELCO 28MT 5.0 KW

What exactly does 5.0KW mean, compared to a 2.5KW? Is it heavier duty?

Is "DELCO 28MT" just the model number or does the "MT" have something to do with a manual transmission?

Finally... Is the starter above Direct Drive or Gear Reduction? I've looked all over the Internet and haven't been able to find this out?

Thanks in advance guys.

More later...

Z.
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- Nitto Terra Grappler LT295/75R16/D
- Running on splash-mixed B2-B20
- Heath TurboMaster; Good Year Gatorback Serpentine Belt; Matching Batteries from Kragen; New Headlights; OEM Fuel Manager O-Rings (2); Good Year Fuel Lines on Fuel Manager; Fram Air & Fuel Filters; ACDelco LP ('93) and OPS; Stant Locking Fuel Cap; OEM Tailgate Weatherstip; McQuay-Norris Pitman & Idler Arms & Sway Bar Links; Raybestos Front Brake Pads & Rotors; Heath PMD Isolator; OEM Harmonic Balancer; OEM Crankshaft Pulley;
- Cleaned Fuel Manager
- Cranked Torsion Bars 2"
- 1998 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) Sport 4.0L I-6 5-Speed Manual NP231 Dana 30/44
- 2001 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) Limited 4x4 4.0L I-6 4-Speed Auto NP242 Dana 30/35
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:35 AM   #8 (permalink)
englishjimmyfan
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27mt=direct drive
28mt=gear drive
see www.delcoremy
kw=metric power rating
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I know most wouldn't agree with me, but I picked up my starter and alternator from Autozone with the lifetime warranty. The starter was over 2.5 years ago and the alternator 2 years ago. Both still running strong and if they ever go bad I just need to swap them out. The alternator is less than a half hour job and in my opinion the starter is pretty quick as well. I'd bet I could get it done in close to an hour, for sure under 2.
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Old 12-11-2012, 05:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
englishjimmyfan
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hi,
the only part any supplier would get for me is from HC CARGO. (useful reference numbers on their website).
the numbers are
112341 (12volt)
113435 (24volt) wit some dimensional differences?
will both work on my truck ('83 6.2 auto jimmy below-stock)???
are the dimensions a problem?
will it turn faster with the 24v version(could be about same cost) or will i have to change the way the batteries are connected?

i need to be sure before ordering as cant return it-(suppliers -no help).
are these just the usual (rebadged) chinese starters? so they last ok?
i'd have got it (same?) from dbelectrical but they wanted about $100 to ship it.......
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Give yourselves a pat on the back !
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