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Old 03-17-2011, 04:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
lifteddiesel
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sign of a bad turbo or wastegate or actuator

im sure its been asked but when i search it i can not find it....... how can i tell if my turbo or waste gate or my wastegate actuator is bad..... i replaced the vac pump and the boost solenoid but still only getting 5psi at full throttle... i was getting 12psi before the vac pump went south... any help would be great before i take a baseball bat to the tahoe....
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1994 chevy 6.5 turbo diesel tahoe, or blazer what ever u want to call it... its all the same....

mods.. 7inch lift, 35inch tires, tinted windows, lots of stuff.. running 12 psi always.... with my little secrets .... llol........ lots more to come. want to do a sas swap somtime and put a huge lift on it and paint it up into a rolling tribute to the men and woman in the service...........
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
JMJNet
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Check the lines first.
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Old 03-18-2011, 12:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
HeavyChevy95
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I agree with JMJNet, check all them lines. Doesn't take much to inadvertantly kink or crack these cheapo plastic vacuum lines, they tend to get stiff and brittle with age..

Checks with engine off;
-Check all vacuum lines, connections, fittings. Ensure there are no vacuum leaks, kinks, cracks, splits, obstructions and/or restrictions.. This includes checking the sections that are routed in protective covering and/or under the intake.
-Check that the vacuum lines are routed properly. The VP (source) always plugs into the most forward port of the soleniod(s), while the rear most ports then supply there perspective device(s). For EGR models, EGR1 solenoids rear port supplies EGR2 solenoids front port.
-Disconnect vacuum line from WGA, apply aprox 20" vacuum to the WGA. Check that WGA lever is fully retracted, holding firm, and not losing any vacuum.

Checks with engine idling;
- Check for a minimum of 20" of vacuum at the WGS front most port.
- Check for a minimum of 15" vacuum at the WGA.
- Check that the WGA lever is fully retracted and holding firm.

Did you recycle or replace the main rubber hose coming directly off VP?
If recycled, might want to check the condition of that rubber hose and where it connects to the orange'ish OEM main plastic vacuum line.
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Old 03-19-2011, 02:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
lifteddiesel
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great info guys... but i still cant find any bad lines... i found 1 right at the wga and fixed it but still only 5psi.... im really good at fixing problems but this has me stumped.
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1994 chevy 6.5 turbo diesel tahoe, or blazer what ever u want to call it... its all the same....

mods.. 7inch lift, 35inch tires, tinted windows, lots of stuff.. running 12 psi always.... with my little secrets .... llol........ lots more to come. want to do a sas swap somtime and put a huge lift on it and paint it up into a rolling tribute to the men and woman in the service...........
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Old 03-19-2011, 03:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
HeavyChevy95
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GM diagnosed "bad turbo" and wanted nearly $2000.00 to fix the intermittent SES and DTC 78. They assured me they had checked all the vacuum lines, vacuum pump, WGS, WGA, etc and for sure the turbo was bad.... Frankly, I still didn't believe 'em, and took it home to check it all over myself.
Inside 10 minutes of getting it home, I quickly found BOTH the main vacuum line (orangish plastic line) supplying the WGS and the vacuum line supplying the WGA (black plastic line) had been (both appeared) pinch'd and cracked right above the brand new IP that GM installed weeks before. Hmm, how'd that happen?? Give ya one guess..
Anyhow, spent maybe $25.00 on new vacuum lines, misc fittings and what nots, and the turbo charger miraculously fix'd itself. No more intermittent SES or DTC 78. Go figure...

FWIW. My vacuum leaks were well consealed, hidden by the protective covers.. They held vacuum, until I tugged slightly on the vacuum lines and noticed the vacuum gauge quickly drop'd off.
I'd suggest removing the old lines (from the vehicle and protective covering) and visually inspect every inch. Dont be to concerned with breaking them in the process, if they do happen to break, they likely needed to be replaced anyhow.
Did you verify the VP output?
I'll ask again, did you recycle or replace the main rubber hose connecting the vacuum pump to the hard plastic line? If recycled, you may want to R&R that hose as its likely dryrotted.
Seriously.. You must be thorough when troubleshooting, otherwise you might as well take it to GM.

Good Luck..
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
lifteddiesel
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ill check again on all the lines..... i even took them off and blocked one end off and blew in it to see if it was holding air....... i can hear the wgs making a ticking noise is that normal. and i just used the old rubber hose from the old vp. i checked it out and it looked newer and no cracks or anything..... i have noticed that sometimes going up hill the truck will switch gears and the turbo will makes a strange chewww sound(letting air out) and it will shift hard when it does that...
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1994 chevy 6.5 turbo diesel tahoe, or blazer what ever u want to call it... its all the same....

mods.. 7inch lift, 35inch tires, tinted windows, lots of stuff.. running 12 psi always.... with my little secrets .... llol........ lots more to come. want to do a sas swap somtime and put a huge lift on it and paint it up into a rolling tribute to the men and woman in the service...........
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
JMJNet
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Another weak point is the actuator itself. The diaphragm in there may be torn.

Have you made sure that the Vacuum pump creates vacuum?

You need a vacuum gauge with the lines connected and measure the vacuum one section at a time?

It can also be a bad solenoid?
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PMD in Bumper
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KD LP/OPS Harness
Bosch Duraterm GP
Heath Turbo-Master
Chevron's XLP Diesel Additive

Last edited by JMJNet; 03-19-2011 at 04:39 PM.
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
lifteddiesel
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i have a vac gauge but its a older one. at the vp its making 20psi.
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1994 chevy 6.5 turbo diesel tahoe, or blazer what ever u want to call it... its all the same....

mods.. 7inch lift, 35inch tires, tinted windows, lots of stuff.. running 12 psi always.... with my little secrets .... llol........ lots more to come. want to do a sas swap somtime and put a huge lift on it and paint it up into a rolling tribute to the men and woman in the service...........
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Old 03-19-2011, 05:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
HeavyChevy95
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Quick WGA Check-
-Disconnect the vacuum line from the WGA.
-Connect a hand held vacuum pump with gauge to the WGA.
-Apply aprox 20" of vacuum to the WGA and observe the gauge for several minutes.
It should NOT bleed off at all.
-With aprox 20" of vacuum applied, try to move the WGA lever.
The lever should be held in place somewhat firm.

Theres more to thoroughly testing the WGA but you'll need to disconnect the WGA lever from the Waste Gate Valve to do so... LMK if you want to check the WGA further and I'll walk you through it.
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Old 03-19-2011, 05:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
lifteddiesel
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exactly how do i apply pressure to the lines or wga without it running?
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1994 chevy 6.5 turbo diesel tahoe, or blazer what ever u want to call it... its all the same....

mods.. 7inch lift, 35inch tires, tinted windows, lots of stuff.. running 12 psi always.... with my little secrets .... llol........ lots more to come. want to do a sas swap somtime and put a huge lift on it and paint it up into a rolling tribute to the men and woman in the service...........
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