I told you I would do it... I just picked up all the 10 feet of 304 stainless steel pipe I will need to build my... oh wait, I haven't told you yet: I'm dumping my exhaust manifolds, and building stainless steel headers for a twin turbo setup on my 6.5l diesel.
I drove to the supplier and ordered up all the 304 stainless steel 90's and 45's I should need, they cost around $130 CDN, and will be in tomorrow. I got the 10' of 304 stainless steel pipe for $100 CDN, prices were cheap because we have a place here that specializes in alloys. All piping is schedule 10S, and a secret size.
I still have to get the 304 stainless steel plate for the flanges, I'll probably just have the machine shop cut it out of some of their stock.
I'm going to buy another GM-8 turbocharger too, and another Turbo-Master as well. I'm going to try and set it up so that I can just order two 3" down pipes, and they will fit both sides, I don't know if it can be done, but I'll try.
i like it especially the intake. its guna work really good or fail miserably. lets hope for the better. i wouldnt have set the turbos up so high. id put them closer to the heads and just route the intake tubes upwards. what about an intercooler? is that in the plans?
I don't believe I posted this picture yet, but this is the engine in Stage 1 of the parts fit. I currently am finishing compiling all the specifications I need to get this engine put together right.
I may be keeping my 599 block, but dramatically increasing it's strength. I am also possibly getting a custom block cast, but that's up in the air right now.
Work order so far for the engine (not listing near everything)
I am going to get the flanges on the headers threaded, and drilled and tapped for turbo drive pressure gauges, and surface ground on the necessary spots
Edit: The engine will not be done until sometime next summer, a billet crankshaft alone takes 14 weeks to build. There is more time planning all this stuff out than it will take to get it built.
I may be going out west (in Canada) for work, so it will be all paid for in a couple months if I do that.
I just dropped my block off to get hot tanked and magnafluxed an hour ago, although I looked closely at it, its best to get this done before doing any modifications to the block. I have the Hard Blok at my shop and it will but put in as soon as I can.
If all goes well there will be some new ways to make the blocks in these engines even stronger :secret:
Well I made a lot of progress on the block last night, I purposely did only 1/2 of the block in hopes that you'd be able to see the differences. I'll try and get a couple better pictures later today. I never thought cast iron could be so smooth and shiny, although it did take a long time. I removed all the sharp edges, tooling marks, casting flash, and imperfections of any kind.
The first picture is an overview the bottom end. The most noticeable area is the bottom left of the cylinders, where it meets the main web. Big smooth corners, instead of sharp ones. You can kind of see the reflection of some of the cylinders, but it's hard to get a good picture.
The second and third pictures are trying to compare a couple cylinders side-by-side. Hard to take pictures down there, but it's clean and smooth enough I could eat off it.
In the last picture you can get an idea of how smooth the whole bottom end is now. I have my finger on what used to be a sharp corner, and also the edge of some bad casting flash.
If you are wondering why I did this, mainly it is to make the oil flow down the sides of the block easier and faster, it also eliminates areas for cracks and stress risers to form.
Yeah, I will going with a billet block IF this one fails. I am doing everything possible to make sure this one doesn't split open, so hopefully is doesn't :
I would think a billet block would be outrageous and outrageously expensive. I wonder how you'd machine the coolant passages. But you should be able to substantially beef up the block. I'd want to see thicker cylinder walls and beefier main webs.
You could bore holes horizontally down the block on each bank on either side of the cylinder walll and then drill down through the top of the block for the cooling passages in the heads to meet up and then thread and plug the bore holes in the block. It would probably not transfer heat as well but it would be much stronger than factory and provide some cooling.
I added fuel output to my PCM programming at RPMs that the reflashes cut out and got some nice power extending 3rd gear powering into OD. And it runs pretty smooth and the 4L80E does well with the higher RPM shifts as long as the power is still there.
I added fuel output to my PCM programming at RPMs that the reflashes cut out and got some nice power extending 3rd gear powering into OD. And it runs pretty smooth and the 4L80E does well with the higher RPM shifts as long as the power is still there.
Will, I hope you realize that you're making me wish I had time on my side when I rebuilt my block. Just so you know.
I needed the truck running for DD duty to get my ass back and forth from work to pay for it
There is a lot I wish I had of done, like smoothing out the inside of the block like this. I'm glad I took the time (and a lot of it) to match the intake port openings and intake manifold to the gaskets, also polished em and port matched the exhaust manifolds and exhaust runners to each other, also polished the exhaust runners.
All I could hear for days was the sound of an air powered rotary tool grinding cast iron with the drone of the compressor in the background, and my hand was frozen (even with a glove on) from holding the air tool so long.
Ahhh... What a twisted way of "enjoying" a hobby I must say, as daunting a task as it was to do, I did love every minute of doing it.
Good job buddy, you never cease to impress me Will
After doing all that, I'm sure you can agree with what I have said above.
Got the bottom of the block all finally polished up, I still have to finish up the lifter galleries, and open up the passenger side oil drain backs. The shop has poor lighting, but I think you get the idea. Made everything smother than I did last time, I have been recording my hours into it, so we'll see how long a full block prep takes
looks great man, i finally got my rig to my buddies shop so i can finally start puttin in some work on it, i have a big box of parts and i'm anxious to get them on, the longer i wait, the more parts i tend to order, its getting expensive lol.
keep up the good work, can't wait to see the finished product
awesome thread. lots of info. what do you guys mean when you say 'sustained boost'? ive seen it a couple times earlier in the thread and Ive got a good idea, but not for sure on what exactly you mean
so your peak and sustained are not the same thing. when I put my foot in it it will peak at 10 lbs but when Im just cruisin normal everyday kinda drivin its right around 4. im just tryin to get my numbers dialed in without blowin her up. when I got the rig it was peaking at 4 lbs if I was lucky
sustain by definition means over a long period of time. So although when you accelerate, boost may peak at 10lbs and then come down to 8psi while you are still accelerating or going uphill then you are only sustaining 8psi. I prefer to sustain at least 10psi boost, while it may peak to 14psi.
That will be safe enough, but not sure what you drive
I actually run much higher boost than that on a stock engine, so you shouldnt worry about 10psi at all, as long as you have proper cooling, and gauges.
I think Will is "taking a break" from the site and probably won't be posting for a little while.
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