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Old 04-08-2009, 07:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
Jake
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Peninsular Diesel sells a 400hp twin turbo motor. I seriously thought about it before I pulled the trigger on my 300hp model. They probably have a nice manifold set-up that you could buy and easily install yourself. Everything in their shop looks top notch. I believe that had a twin turbo model in the customer waiting area. It looked awesome! Not sure about longevity with the 6.5 bottom end though....

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Old 04-08-2009, 09:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
clackmaster
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one question why dont you run 2 smaller better flowing turbos that will divide the boost equally instead of a parrel system this way the motor breathes way better with little restriction with get spool up time. just my 2cents because the basics of a diesel are simple just a big air pump more air in easily and more air out easily equals efficency witch in turn equals power. plus you dont have to worry about grenading that motor
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Old 04-08-2009, 09:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
chevyinlinesix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteK2500 View Post
Who cares what turbo's he starts with, turbos can always be swapped.
Agreed, once I start working again, maybe next week because a new pipeline is going in, I'll see about better suited turbos.

I'm no turbo expert, but I'm sure I can find some that will match nicely. A question I have though, what about the turbo flanges, I know there is T3/T4, should I make mine able to accept both?

I think two turbos flow more air, with less back pressure... plus, true duals!
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Quote:
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Quote this

Last edited by chevyinlinesix; 04-08-2009 at 09:45 PM.
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Old 04-08-2009, 09:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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sunbirds had some nice small turbines in em ... two small snails will spool faster .. lemm know how it turns out .. maybe a nice van mod for latter in the express' life
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Old 04-08-2009, 09:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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inlinesix, I knew you had somethin up your sleeve when you started building that intake manifold!

Like Jake said above. Call Peninsular to see what they have for a manifold, maybe ask them what turbos they ran too! The two GM-8s should work very well IMO and you can weld/fabricate well. Hopefully everything will be straightforward.

That truck is gonna be wicked!!!

If the turbo setup ends up as well as your intake, it will be simply amazing!

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Post plenty of pics of your progress.

I would be honored to share some advice/info, if needed.
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:00 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyinlinesix View Post
Agreed, once I start working again, maybe next week because a new pipeline is going in, I'll see about better suited turbos.

I'm no turbo expert, but I'm sure I can find some that will match nicely. A question I have though, what about the turbo flanges, I know there is T3/T4, should I make mine able to accept both?

I think two turbos flow more air, with less back pressure... plus, true duals!
And the exhaust crossover setup our trucks have are a stupid idea
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Old 04-08-2009, 11:03 PM   #17 (permalink)
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With your fabrication capabilities, I'd decide on your initially planned turbo size (T3 flange will allow you lots of options so you can find a size the 6.5 can spool up to useful boost at a low enough rpm threshold to be fun to drive.) My thought is you can optimize the collector/flange transition smoothly for 1 size flange, or compromise to fit "in btwn" 2 alternate sizes.

If you decide to try T4 later, chop off the flange end & weld in a transition that goes smoothly out to T4.

Burns Stainless has an impressive offering of supplies for this type of fabrication. Not cheap, but dang they've got some cool stuff: slick merge collectors, oval shaped tubing, etc. Check out their website - the tech section has a good article on turbo headers - lots of great exhaust fab tech info.

You might inquire w/ Heath to see if the header setup they had fabbed included some type of bracing to help support the turbo(s) weight. There's a fair amount of weight to be supported and lots of temp related expansion/contraction. Probably worth visualizing how things might move as they heat up & consider what needs to flex & what should be held more rigidly.

Many of the highly turbocharged 4 cyl aftermarket headers have cracking problems. Not certain how much of that is related to choosing too thin stainless tubing due to cost considerations. Also most have no bracing to help support turbo weight/movement.

I have a neighbor that's TIG'd up a number of successful 4 cyl turbo headers. I think he uses the weld "El"s mentioned in "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. If memory serves, the weld els are common fab supplies in the oil industry & maybe hydraulics. I'll try to get some specifics from my neighbor & let you know.
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Old 04-08-2009, 11:18 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I was planning on making a brace of some kind, to keep tension off the exhaust bolts. Sch 10S stainless pipe is 0.109" thick, I highly doubt it will crack, since I got all the pipe and such at the same place that supplies the chemical plants. I don't know what the difference between weld "EL"s and pipe elbows are, since you can get short radius, long radius, and 3R ect. I'm going to arc weld these up probably, I can do a better job arc welding stainless than I can TIG welding it anyways.

I can get some pretty crazy bends out of this pipe, just by heating it a certain way, stainless has some crazy contraction and expansion rates.

I'm thinking this will cost $500 all said and done.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodis22
Quote this

Last edited by chevyinlinesix; 04-08-2009 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:34 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyinlinesix View Post
I was planning on making a brace of some kind, to keep tension off the exhaust bolts. Sch 10S stainless pipe is 0.109" thick, I highly doubt it will crack, since I got all the pipe and such at the same place that supplies the chemical plants. I don't know what the difference between weld "EL"s and pipe elbows are, since you can get short radius, long radius, and 3R ect. I'm going to arc weld these up probably, I can do a better job arc welding stainless than I can TIG welding it anyways.

I can get some pretty crazy bends out of this pipe, just by heating it a certain way, stainless has some crazy contraction and expansion rates.

I'm thinking this will cost $500 all said and done.
Don't forget oil lines, air intakes, might have to move batteries?
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:39 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Don't forget oil lines, air intakes, might have to move batteries?
and the hydro-boost.....Heath had to put a manual slave for the brakes....don't no what he did for power steerin'...
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