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DIY - High Idle

72K views 148 replies 55 participants last post by  Boonafide 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Not to long ago I asked TD if he wanted some "DIY" threads to help everyone out, guess what his answer was? :D
Also a recent thread came up, about making high idle "kits"
I'm willing to make them if people want to buy them, just PM me
I have a few "on order" and I'll take a pic of both an OBD1 kit and OBD2 kit once I have em both made up.

With that being said I thought to myself, how will they know how to install this?
Kennedy's instructions are good, but I know that people like pictures, so this is a how to install high idle switches..... or switch on your OBD2 trucks. (What you'll need can be found here if makin your own)

Before unplugging things and pulling things apart, you might want to disconnect your batterys.
I also want to say that I have an OBD2 truck, and it will differ some from an OBD1 truck's installation. if there is anyone around my area with an OBD1, and wants help installin a high idle switch, I'll be more then happy to hook you up with what you need, and do a free install so we can do an OBD1 dedicated high idle with pics of an OBD1 setup. PM me if interested.

Ok, lets start off with the first picture, to make removing the dash easier, I turned the key to on, and pulled the shifter down to first.


2nd pic, if you got a cup holder, you gotta move it.


As you can see in the 3rd pic, I just grab the top of my dash and gently yet firmly pulled it towards myself.


As seen in the 4th and 5th pics, you just pull the dash out enough so you can get your fingers in to remove the cargo lamp switch, as well as the headlight switch/ interior light dimmer (Not shown).

Pic 4


5th pic also shows you how the clip locks in, you gotta press down pretty firmly to get it, try wiggling as you pull.


Now take note in pic 6 of how many silver clips there are and where, this is what holds your dash in, and will make removal and reinstallation easier.


Pic 7, holes made are 1/2 using the switches I used, I picked the area of the dash on the drivers side of the steering wheel, careful using that area though, I got my switches tucked in their so nicely,


(Pic 8) with the housing side by side, I thought it was gonna interfear with the location pin and mount, but that's why careful planing and measuring more then once is done (Told ya I was a custom fabricator :D)



Picture 8 also shows the rubber "dust flap" that I used to route my wires behind the dash where the steering wheel is to keep them hidden.

Picture 9 10 and 11 show you how I ran my lines, and how I hooked the lines under the edge of the gauge cluster to keep everything behind the dash.

Pic 9


In pic 10 that switch you see is for my bumper mounted driving lights.


Pic 11


Pic 12 shows where I ran the line down behind the cup holder and airvent, into the glovebox opening.


In picture 13 there's a plastic "limiting" strap that you have to pull toward yourself while you push back on the glovebox (as if to close it) and then when it slides forward, pull it away from the glovebox.


Pic 14 on the other side of the glove box there is a stopper, just push it on it, then the glove box will come out once you lower it to almost horizontal, then gently pull towards yourself, and it'll come out.


Pic 15 is where the wire comes from behind the cupholder and airvent into the glovebox opening.


Pic 16 shows the PCM in it's stock location,


Pic 17 shows a harness that you should pull out of your way for more room, then grab the PCM and pull back on it to pull it off it's tray,


then angle it as shown in pic 18


and pull it out like shown in pic 19.


The middle connector, is the one we are after as shown in picture 20, to remove the locks you need a little flat screw driver or in my case...a pen (Gf handed it to me... it worked... why complain?)

Pic 20


and you want to remove the one without the big clip on it (as seen in pic 21, big clip is left alone)

Pic 21


The row with the lock with the big clip is row A and the other one with the flat lock is row B, (I'm takin a guess that it all looks the same for OBD1 and OBD2, if not, I'm sorry) Now here is were it gets different for the 2 OBD systems.

OBD2 you can supply 1 or 2 switched grounds to terminals B7 (1170rpm) and/or B8(1360rpm) or you can ground both and get (1600rpms)

OBD1 you supply one switched 12v power source to pin A6(1075rpm)
Going by picture 21, 1 is the far right and 12 is far left.

Pic 22 is a blury pic of the pin connector... Tried to get it... Oh well, Sorry.


Pic 23 is both pins installed, I colour coded my wires so I knew what wire went to what switch (Black is 1070rpm red is 1360rpm)


Pic 24 is with the lock put back in place


Pic 25 is of the wire routed to the PCM put back in it's stock location, to do this, there is a locator pin on the PCM and 2 clips, the pin goes into a hole on the PCM tray, and the clips slide UNDER the tray holdin the PCM in place.


These are the switch to ground wires, I dropped them down beside the steering wheel then I had to undo the screw to the mounting bracket, and replaced the screwafter moving the grounding tabs over the hole as seen in pictures 26 and 27 and that pretty much takes care of that.

Pic 26


Pic 27


Picture 28 shows the switches that I use and will use in my kits.


Now you can turn the key, flick the switch(es) and enjoy your new high idle mod :D
 

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#3 ·
#5 ·
That is a great video and excellant pics. TY for the info. I've been makin plans to do this for mine but working on other problems with the truck.
 
#6 ·
good pics, people luv it when it is in pics. something about a thousand words. now lets here about the roll up the rim. couldn't help but notice timmy's cups. Ed
 
#9 ·
good pics, people luv it when it is in pics. something about a thousand words. now lets here about the roll up the rim. couldn't help but notice timmy's cups. Ed
I won the right to please play again :D So did the missus, you can actually see her workin on takin out the glovebox in the pic where i have the dash on my hood. Made everything 2x faster, I also didn't have to grow a third arm to take pics with :rolleyes:
 
#8 ·
Nice write up. Pics and a video, :cool:

Good job man!
 
#11 ·
Very nice job Justin! I'm thinking this mod will have to be tackled by me one day.

Hey, I like the way you complete the project by giving us a vid. By the way, your truck sounds great! :)
 
#19 ·
#13 ·
Nice job i am going to do my suburban just like yours thanks
 
#14 ·
I just did my 95 today I will post pix of the install tommorow! good job Justin
 
#15 ·
Please do post your pix Dracor85- we could use some OBDI visuals! Thanks!

Jon "OBDI Kanobe" Hobbs
 
#16 ·
x2
 
#18 · (Edited)
Man, your phone call confused the hell out of me today, I had no clue who I was talkin to for the first 10 mins :D Came up distributel on Caller ID, Then some dude talkin about white trucks and my gf and high idle :rolleyes: Lol! I was thinkin it was you, you'd be the only stranger callin my cell.

Now get your ass down here Nick, gotta decide if 20PSI is too much :p:
 
#20 ·
Bump, i'm sure there are some people looking for this right about now just before winter :D
 
#22 ·
excellllllent, I love it bud good job!
 
#23 ·
Anyone have any suggestions for switch location where I wouldn't have to remove the dash?
 
#27 ·
Excellent directions, and excellent post.

I have a high idle switch and I use the heck out of it in the winter with my 18:1 engine. She needs a little kick in the morning to keep her awake. :eek: Warms up quicker also, BRRRRR.
Yea, there's some morning the polar bears even stay inside around here, but I still gotta work, helps a lot with gettin the engine to fire on all cylinders quicker, and also, added warmpth.
 
#25 · (Edited)
I got some questions... What kind of switches would one person need? Just something with 2 prongs on the back? To computer and one to ground? And even with them both hooked in and both activated it will bump it up to 1600 or is there anything else you need to do? Also.. What does it mean 1600 RPM- short B7 and B8 together short?? If you get what im trying to ask.. hehe thank you!!
 
#26 ·
Just a simple switch, something that breaks contact with your chosen ground point. I used a heavy duty switch with dust boot for the toggle at Princess Auto.

And yes, 2 prong, one to PCM one to ground.

If your lights don't come on, and you have a short somewhere it means the power is grounding out before it gets to it's intended destination.

Shorting B8 and B7 means both pins are allowed to ground out (both switchs on)

Short = Short Circuit

Basically, with the OBDII system, you ground out the pins for the high idle, only pin B7 is grounded (Switch on) to get a high idle of 1070 (IIRC) ground pin B8 and you get 13somethin (Can't think of it now, lot on my mind) and ground both pins (both switches on) for 1600.

OBDI you apply power to A7 I think, and it only has one setting around 1000 RPM.

That's all.
 
#28 ·
Switch Location

i poped out the cargo light switch and drilled a 1/2 hole in the lower blank slot, mounted my switch in there.
 
#29 ·
That is very helpful, I can't wait to do mine.

Thank you for the pictures
 
#30 ·
Just finished my high idle. I used smaller switches in the same area, under the speedo on the left side. Using smaller switch left room for more switches that area. (TCC override?? etc)

Convenient ground point is the PCM ground, just above the PCM.

Its nice to leave the truck running with the A/C on and it be real cold.

The fast idle will also be usefull when I get the 110v inverter installed.
 
#31 ·
thank you whiteK2500 :) appreciate it very much! Oh yeah how long did it take ya about to do it if you recall? Just looking to find a window of time between beer and more beer, haha thanks again for the post!
 
#32 ·
i'm sorry again i just wanna double check something... Are these the pins that connect to the 18 gauge wire and into the PCM connection? Either one of the two?? If you can make out what they are from the picture.. It's hard to get a good picture of something this small...
 

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#33 ·
Is there anyway to bypass the high idle from turning off when in drive or on the brake?

Anything but "P" a r k and the idle goes to normal , Correct?

Need it for the wrecker clutch pump.....I know it is NOT advised.
 
#34 ·
Is there anyway to bypass the high idle from turning off when in drive or on the brake?

Anything but "P" a r k and the idle goes to normal , Correct?

Need it for the wrecker clutch pump.....I know it is NOT advised.
Nope.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Yep, that's the pin Smoke.
As far as time, with the gf helping, about 3 hours (We we're also takin the time to do a walk through, pointing things out, takin pics etc for this thread, so that inflated our time a bit, as we were in no real rush)

I honestly don't know Brooklyn, You'd have to look at what relays or switches and what wires do what, where they go, etc on an electrical layout to figure out what you'd need to do/if it can be done.

I wondered the same thing, to be able to use it to turn a PTO winch quicker with everything reving higher.

Instead I'll just go with the dual alty setup and a warn 16500lbs winch, easier to set up as far as I'm concerned, and I don't have to do complex wiring... I hate wiring... Specially automotive wiring.... Censored
 
#37 ·
You'd have to look at what relays or switches and what wires do what, where they go, etc on an electrical layout to figure out what you'd need

Not worth the time or energy spent....(unless you enjoy that kind of challenge) There are "aftermarket" HI setups that will.....with a tweak.
 
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